Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
It depends, tire turning torque is more important than BHP.
The best driving series I've experienced was a Series IIA with a 3.5 Rover V8 it had from memory a torquemax cam and offenhauser manifold topped by a Holley carb..
It was paired not to the standard manual but to a 3spd 727 torqueflite out of an early Range Rover with a fully manual valvebody
It was a dream to drive.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Quite a lot of work to fit a 6 cylinder into a 4 cylinder vehicle, the bulkhead, transmission tunnel, and bell housing are slightly different, to get the longer engine into the engine bay. They also have a different radiator to 4 cylinder.
The removal of 6 cylinders to fit other engines, often aftermarket, Perkins, Ford V6, etc, was common. Which is one of the reasons it is difficult to find a good 6 cylinder vehicle now.
6pot
Well-Known Member
Because the engine is differently placed, so is the transmission so the prop shafts are different as well.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I have deliberately not taken bits off mine because they would just get lost and trashed over the 4 years or so it has been stored since I bought it. However when the chassis comes the engine will be coming out and I will be seeing just how bad it is. I hope it can be unseized or at least the original block recovered for reuse.
I tried when I first got it by dumping diesel down the bores etc and trying to crank it over with no joy. Will see what it is when I get it out and stripped and keep my fingers crossed
I tried when I first got it by dumping diesel down the bores etc and trying to crank it over with no joy. Will see what it is when I get it out and stripped and keep my fingers crossed
6pot
Well-Known Member
I hope you manage to get it sorted, maybe some other more seriously penetrating solvent could be tried in the bores? Do you know the circumstances of how the engine seized?I have deliberately not taken bits off mine because they would just get lost and trashed over the 4 years or so it has been stored since I bought it. However when the chassis comes the engine will be coming out and I will be seeing just how bad it is. I hope it can be unseized or at least the original block recovered for reuse.
I tried when I first got it by dumping diesel down the bores etc and trying to crank it over with no joy. Will see what it is when I get it out and stripped and keep my fingers crossed
Parts can be a bit of a nightmare but I have seen things like valves, pistons, bearing shells and even a crated bare block come up for sale in the last couple of years.
By the way, I was being nosey on the DVLA look up - do you know why yours was manufactured in 1982 (hence X plate) but first registered in 1987, out of interest?
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
I had the 2.25 diesel that came in my Series professionally rebuilt to as-new condition as I believe it is the original engine. I mean to the point of being re-bored, crankshaft reground, reconditioned injection pump etc. I thought I may as well spend the money then to hopefully avoid problems later on.
With all the problems I read about on here with setting carbs for the petrols, I am glad I made that decision. It is obviously noisy and slow, but will easily start after being stood. It is a hobby vehicle that does very few miles, so long term durability is not such an issue.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
The diesel is adequate to the job, although 5 bearing is better than 3 bearing.
In overall diesel engine terms, it is not one of the best examples ever built.
6pot
Well-Known Member
I had a 1974 diesel 109 and it was noisy and a bit slow but it went well enough if you worked through the gears, like with many old vehicles with a fairly narrow torque range. I liked it - it always started and it didn't seem to use too much diesel even with a drip coming from the pump - I read that this was common and could be solved with refurbing.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Quite possibly weeping from where the actuator arm goes into the governor housing. Common, and easy to fix with a small nitrile rubber O ring.
6pot
Well-Known Member
Yes that sounds like what it was, never got round to fixing it. Even passed its MOT like that.
6pot
Well-Known Member
Getting back to the original subject, here's mine
OK so the power isn't a lot more than the 2.25 and it doesn't necessarily go a lot faster - I remember one of those car programmes years ago pitting a 4cyl and a 6cyl petrol against each other and the 4 left the 6 standing, possibly because the 4 driver drove in a way to prove a point...
Also the compression ratio is a bit pants because it was made to run on any old rubbish petrol so it's a bit thirsty but any shortcomings are worth it for the sound it makes, after all we all drive Landies for fun rather than purely practicality, surely
OK so the power isn't a lot more than the 2.25 and it doesn't necessarily go a lot faster - I remember one of those car programmes years ago pitting a 4cyl and a 6cyl petrol against each other and the 4 left the 6 standing, possibly because the 4 driver drove in a way to prove a point...
Also the compression ratio is a bit pants because it was made to run on any old rubbish petrol so it's a bit thirsty but any shortcomings are worth it for the sound it makes, after all we all drive Landies for fun rather than purely practicality, surely
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
I saw one of the engines for sale at the Newbury show a few years back. I remember it being painted bright red.
Did anyone on here acquire it?
Did anyone on here acquire it?
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BikerB
Well-Known Member
I have this to look forward to shortly. Once the chassis arrives I have a temp garage to erect and will start stripping. I have had the vehicle for a few years but have deliberately not taken it apart to avoid confusion and stop me breaking/losing bits.
The idea is to get the landrover in the garage, strip it right down to the chassis, change for the new one and build it back up again.
BikerB
Well-Known Member
I have seen liners come up and like previous posters I will completely rebuild the engine to make it as new. Its not being rebuilt to make money but because I want one
I have rebuilt plenty of vehicles and money for parts, up to a point, is not a major factor. as far as time goes I do just about everything myself so this is technically free
For example I am just starting to rebuild a Honda Superdream 250, I reckon it will probably cost me somewhere in the region of £2.5k b the time it is finished. I could buy a decent one for half that. However I want one that I know is right, looks completely original and is in perfect nick. Not to sell but to keep as part of the collection.
Why a Superdream? It was the first bike I was ever on, as a pillion, when I was 15. Why Not?
I have rebuilt plenty of vehicles and money for parts, up to a point, is not a major factor. as far as time goes I do just about everything myself so this is technically free
For example I am just starting to rebuild a Honda Superdream 250, I reckon it will probably cost me somewhere in the region of £2.5k b the time it is finished. I could buy a decent one for half that. However I want one that I know is right, looks completely original and is in perfect nick. Not to sell but to keep as part of the collection.
Why a Superdream? It was the first bike I was ever on, as a pillion, when I was 15. Why Not?
6pot
Well-Known Member
Looks nice, I suppose it's the usual chassis repair. How bad is it, it's difficult to tell from the photo?Mine looked like this when I got it
View attachment 229433
Currently looks like this
View attachment 229434
Just about to pull the rear axle off then donkey out and chassis for blasting
Mine's been repaired in the past and looks like it's had a replacement rear crossmember at some point, hopefully all sound.
