Anyone know where I can get reasonably priced single electrics for a freelander.(The one with the plug that connects directly without crimps). I have done a search but the only thing I could find was from 2005. Presumably prices have gone up a bit since then. Any help would be appreciated.
ah suppose using crimps will be in keeping with the other parts queing up to failYup its main stealers only job. . . .i used crimps
You dont listen, Monsieur - do you? A properly crimped connector is as good (arguably better) than a soldered connector. All military and aircraft connectors are crimped. You DO, however, need to do the job properly - but thats the same as with a solder joint - a poor solder joint is just as bad.
oh yer wrong again mr daft. i know a properly crimped joint is better , but the chances of folk having the right stuff to do it are slim. you have a check of all vehicles with after market crimps on em and i'll give yer odds of 500:1 that they just int up to the job.
most folk go out to halfrauds or B&Q and buy a box of multi coloured assorted crimps with the flexible crimp pliers. which are not up to spec. then they use an open ended connector instead of a ring because they can remove it without having to take the nut off. even the spade connectors in the assortment boxes need a squeeze to get a half decent contact.
i guarentee yer if you was to conduct a survey of all DIY leccy jobs you will find more problems with crimped conections than with soldered ones.
most folk go out to halfrauds or B&Q and buy a box of multi coloured assorted crimps with the flexible crimp pliers. which are not up to spec. then they use an open ended connector instead of a ring because they can remove it without having to take the nut off. even the spade connectors in the assortment boxes need a squeeze to get a half decent contact.
i guarentee yer if you was to conduct a survey of all DIY leccy jobs you will find more problems with crimped conections than with soldered ones.
Optimus Prime
Well-Known Member
the problem lies with the application of the technique, not the technique itself. A correctly soldered electrical joint will always have electrically superior connection, but may lack mechanical strength. A correctly crimped joint will have nearly as good electrical connection, but a slightly improved mechanical strength.
As you rightly said slob, the majority of peeps will use the ****y flexi crimp tool that comes with the packet of crimps.
The only correct way to make a crimp is by using a ratchet action crimp tool, which ensures the same high forces are applied consistently every time.
I invariably use through crimps rather than male/female spade connectors as they just cant work loose. Then wrap the whole joint in one turn of self almalgamating tape.
As you rightly said slob, the majority of peeps will use the ****y flexi crimp tool that comes with the packet of crimps.
The only correct way to make a crimp is by using a ratchet action crimp tool, which ensures the same high forces are applied consistently every time.
I invariably use through crimps rather than male/female spade connectors as they just cant work loose. Then wrap the whole joint in one turn of self almalgamating tape.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
FFS don't use scotchblocks EVER!! for anything. If you want to do the socket yourself do what I did and use a strip of terminal block then tape the whole lot up with good insulating tape. scotchblocks are the antichrist of electrical connections.
revjames
New Member
I beg to differ red. Where I work we use them on mains voltage inside plastic conduit in a tunnel under the sea stretching 1.5 miles. They have been in for over 25 years and still work fine. Also I put them in my Mondeo towbar electrics 3 yrs ago again no probs. You have to make sure you have the right size ones thats all.
But what do I know I'm only a spark with 27 yrs experience.
But what do I know I'm only a spark with 27 yrs experience.
Nothing rong in IDTerminals in the Right place. **** see wot the arguement is - yu an I both agree, Slob - if the jobs dun propper - then its OK - Its just WHETHER it is dun proper.
- Its just WHETHER it is dun proper.
revjames
New Member
These are blue, yellow or red depending on cable size and made by 3M. the idea is to slide it on the cable you want to tap into, then insert the cable you are tapping off to and then a matter of firmly closing with a pair of pliers. Never had a problem myself and I have used loads. The question has to be am I using the correct one for the cable size and am I doing it properly.
I worked for the electricity board for some years and they used a similar method on their aerial bunched conductor system. They had a bunch of 4 cables overhead with 3 phases and a neutral. A large plastic block with a similar mechanism to the scotchlock was places over a phase cable and a neutral. The joint was made by tightening down with an insulated socket (live). This was a phase and neutral were 'tapped off' the main bunch and a single phase supply taken to the adjacent house.
I think the point here is - it MUST be done proper like. Slob has a valid point in that most peeps wont - and therein lies the problem.
. Slob has a valid point in that most peeps wont - and therein lies the problem.yer can't compare vehicle electrics with static electrics such as in a house or under ground. vehicles are subjected to much more vibrations,moisture and temp changes than yer average hoose.
and while a proper lectricshun may be able to do a good enough job yer average bloke ( and thats the ones wur trying to help here) int gonna. i've lost count of the number of vehicles i've worked on with badly fitted or cheap nasty crimps on em.
unless yer got decent bits and decent tools yer better soldering them.
and while a proper lectricshun may be able to do a good enough job yer average bloke ( and thats the ones wur trying to help here) int gonna. i've lost count of the number of vehicles i've worked on with badly fitted or cheap nasty crimps on em.
unless yer got decent bits and decent tools yer better soldering them.
did i say that?? NO ah dint! but a soldering iron good enough to do a proper job can be bought a hellafa lot cheaper than a crimping tool, and you can use it for other jobs as well.. you try fixing a 'dry' joint with a crimping tool.
it snot like soldering a wire is hard neither where as getting a good crimp joint seems to be beyond the capabilities of most drivers
