thspeller · Dec 26, 2018

Hi Team,

I’m a new Landrover owner and hoping my knowledge will grow over time. For now, my 1973 series 3 won’t start when I turn the key. There is a single load click when I turn the key but no turning over at all. The lights seem bright when I turn them on. The landy was stood for about 4 weeks when I tried to start her (longest ever been left) and I don’t know history of battery.

If anyone can give me an order of checks and some likely causes, I’ll try getting my hands dirty!

Many thanks and merry Christmas.

Tom

tottot · Dec 26, 2018

Switch the lights on and try to start. If lights stay bright there is a poor connection to the starter some where. If lights go dim then battery does not have enough power to turn motor.
Either way clean battery connectors. Do you have a volt meter?

rob1miles · Dec 26, 2018

Seconded. Clean battery terminals, because its been standing there's a chance the starter is stuck too. Give it a couple of sharp wacks. If its a petrol it will push start easily. That may free the starter.

thspeller · Dec 26, 2018

Thanks both. I don’t have a volt meter but sounds like a good investment. If I did have one, I assume I need a reading over 12v? When you say battery connectors, are you just referring to the poles in the battery itself or other connectors in the wider starter linkages? Thanks as always

tottot · Dec 26, 2018

Start with the battery terminals. Reading 12v or close is good,down at 10v bad. With engine running a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 tells you alternator is working. Basic LED scale battery tester by DRAPER is easy to use,find it on the fleabay.

Colthebrummie · Dec 27, 2018

If all of the above fails, look at the starter solenoid. The + cable goes to it from the battery. It is possible to short it out to get power directly to the starter but it's not for the faint hearted.

Col

rob1miles · Dec 28, 2018

Re solenoid, you can check it with a screwdirver but it can end with the screwdriver welded to the starter.....

suburban · Dec 28, 2018

can't you stick a set of jump leads battery to starter - with the ignition on - to see if it is a connection issue?

FlyingPete · Dec 28, 2018

The starter solenoid could be sticking or dirty.The solenoid both engages the starter pinion with the flywheel and makes tge electrical contact for the motor. If the solenoid contacts are dirty then the solenoid will move over (hence the single clunk) but won't power up the motor. Likewise, if it's sticking then it won't move over far enough to close the contacts.

jamesmartin · Dec 28, 2018

his starter shouldnt have a solenoid that should be secured to the bulkhead, but contacts can still fail as can the starter itself

thspeller · Dec 29, 2018

Thanks all. So, I’ve had a long afternoon with the car trying all your suggestions. I purachsed a multimeter and have 12.8v across the battery and at the solenoid when the ignition is turned (I deduce that the problem can’t be battery or terminals (which I cleaned for good measure)). I also tried cleaning a few other connections (i.e. the solenoid terminals) but since there was 12v at the solenoid, I believe that rules that possibility out as the source of the issue. As you can imagine, I tried the ignition many times and on a few occasions it began to turn over. When it did, engine fired into life beautifully but I couldn’t get the starter to crank routinely. Even after a long drive, I’d turn ignition off, try to restart but I just got the hard click but no turn. The only thing that might have been linking my success was hitting the starter with a mallet. Which makes me think the problem is likely the starter sticking? Could this make sense and if so, are there was to check and/or fix? For info, I do have a starter with separate solenoid attached to it. I think it is a Martelli?

Thank you to all who’ve helped me so far!

Tom

freelance · Dec 29, 2018

You need to decide if it’s dodgy ign switch, faulty solenoid or tired starter motor then

rob1miles · Dec 29, 2018

Sounds like sticky starter brushes. You can do a "roadside" fix; slide the steel cover back (it should have a clamp screw) and squirt a load of WD 40 in. Take the plugs out and motor the engine on the starter. for 30 seconds or so. There not much load so it spins a lot faster and cleans itself up a bit.

thspeller · Dec 29, 2018

Thanks both. Just been looking through the manual - if I have a starter with solenoid attached (i.e. side by side - see attached). Does this mean I have a diesel starter motor installed on my petrol engine or where the starters designed to be inter changeable? Assume it’s not a problem.

jamesmartin · Dec 29, 2018

thspeller said:
Thanks both. Just been looking through the manual - if I have a starter with solenoid attached (i.e. side by side - see attached). Does this mean I have a diesel starter motor installed on my petrol engine or where the starters designed to be inter changeable? Assume it’s not a problem.

a 1973 3 bearing petrol should have a 2 bolt bendix type starter with a separate solenoid ,the ring gear teeth face different ways for the later pre engage starters with solenoids, diesel have 3 bolts

thspeller · Dec 30, 2018

That’s very interesting jamesmartin. I’ve uploaded a photo of the starter. See what you make of it - I assume you’re saying that the engine probably isn’t original to the car therefore. I’m new to landy’s So god knows what I’ve bought (). The starter is a Mirelli M78R. I’m going to try pluck up the courage this weekend to take it out and try see if I can find the problem. Thanks again

tottot · Dec 30, 2018

That is not a standard 2.25 petrol starter for a 73 engine. More pics of the engine may help us work out if yours is a later engine.

thspeller · Dec 30, 2018

This is getting interesting - I’m fascinated to know what I’ve been sold! Here’s hoping I haven’t been totally mugged! The guy at the parts shop reckons it may be the wrong starter fitted (needs inertia type) and is getting jammed as teeth arrangement are slightly different. Not sure if that resonates with you. If anyone has the experience, I’ve attached some engine pictures and would be fascinated to know what I’ve actually got!

Colthebrummie · Dec 31, 2018

Could be a later 5 bearing engine. Mine is the original 3 bearing 1977 petrol, 2.25 with the starter and separate solenoid bolted to the bulkhead. I don't know if they had different starters on newer engines but I would doubt it.

Col

thspeller · Dec 31, 2018

Thanks Col. Most signs are indicating that I have a later 5 bearing 2.25 (2.3) petrol. It appears as if it has been incorrectly fitted with a pre-engaged defender style starter (M78R) which, due to incorrect teeth alignment is getting jammed. The solution therefore is to remove the starter and replace with the old style of inertia starter and install a separate solenoid. I presume this is quite straight forward. I should then wire battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter with wire from ignition clipping to third terminal on solenoid. Sound a good bet? If so, I’ll order the parts. Tom

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