XRIZLAX
Active Member
ive not seen a bulkhead go through our bath, so i cant reallt say re-warpage.
as for old chassis, we had an old s3 chassis come in before christmas, looked pretty grotty, bit of surface rust, i did take pics but cant find em. we ran it through the bath twice as it came out a bit rough, but after 2nd dip it looedk new.
as for inside, it first goes in an acid bath which depending on length of time its in, will remove all rust, leave it in long enough in the best acid and it will desolve the whole chassis,lol.
i would say if a chassis is more rust than good steel, dont bother as there wont be anything left.
its a 20k doller question really, i suppose if the outside is good, and you run a hamer all the way down the rails and get a good sound ding, then you ok.
we air dry everything.
what usually causes warpage is how its dipped. solid beams etc, 4 ton say, are just crashed into the bath, where stuff like bulkheads or items with airways etc have to be lowered in slowly to allow air to vent out, and then raised to allow drainage.
i would think a jig made and bolted to chassis mounts on the bulkhead wold help prevent any warpage.
as for old chassis, we had an old s3 chassis come in before christmas, looked pretty grotty, bit of surface rust, i did take pics but cant find em. we ran it through the bath twice as it came out a bit rough, but after 2nd dip it looedk new.
as for inside, it first goes in an acid bath which depending on length of time its in, will remove all rust, leave it in long enough in the best acid and it will desolve the whole chassis,lol.
i would say if a chassis is more rust than good steel, dont bother as there wont be anything left.
its a 20k doller question really, i suppose if the outside is good, and you run a hamer all the way down the rails and get a good sound ding, then you ok.
we air dry everything.
what usually causes warpage is how its dipped. solid beams etc, 4 ton say, are just crashed into the bath, where stuff like bulkheads or items with airways etc have to be lowered in slowly to allow air to vent out, and then raised to allow drainage.
i would think a jig made and bolted to chassis mounts on the bulkhead wold help prevent any warpage.
With regards to warping, this is my bulkhead after it had been galvanised.
The only bracing was the steel box-section (shown) between the mounting points. Some of the flat panels were slightly distorted but nothing that shows when fitted and nothing was out of alignment afterwards.
I had been told by the galvanisers beforehand to ensure there were plenty of vent holes in the box-sections, the trick is to ensure that whatever angle it is dipped at there are always holes for the air to escape from. I drilled plenty (where they don't show) and it seemed to work for me.
The only bracing was the steel box-section (shown) between the mounting points. Some of the flat panels were slightly distorted but nothing that shows when fitted and nothing was out of alignment afterwards.
I had been told by the galvanisers beforehand to ensure there were plenty of vent holes in the box-sections, the trick is to ensure that whatever angle it is dipped at there are always holes for the air to escape from. I drilled plenty (where they don't show) and it seemed to work for me.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
XRIZLAX
Active Member
With regards to warping, this is my bulkhead after it had been galvanised.
The only bracing was the steel box-section (shown) between the mounting points. Some of the flat panels were slightly distorted but nothing that shows when fitted and nothing was out of alignment afterwards.
I had been told by the galvanisers beforehand to ensure there were plenty of vent holes in the box-sections, the trick is to ensure that whatever angle it is dipped at there are always holes for the air to escape from. I drilled plenty (where they don't show) and it seemed to work for me.
what he says, sounds spot on to me.
iam hoping to do a full rebuild in the near future, galv chassis bulkhead, got loads allready galved but iam thinking EVERYTHING galved
XRIZLAX
Active Member
that sounds a good price, get it sand blasted first, try and get into all the hiden places to make sure all rust is removed, make sure all paint and grease/oil is removed as the acid wont remove it.
the s3 chassis went through the bath twice and was charged about 300 quid.
going through twice removes all paint and grease etc.
XRIZLAX
Active Member
joseph ash, holmewood chesterfield, jct 29 M1.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Very nice n4th4n.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
XRIZLAX
Active Member
i got in touch with richards chassis with the intension of getting an ungalved chassis from them hoping to get a couple of hundred quid knocked off, but all he would drop the price was 85 quid.
does anybody advertise they do ungalved chassis, there used to be a couple of firms years ago which offered both options with a fair difference in price.
it would be nice if i could get a bare steel one 2-3 hundred quid cheaper.
does anybody advertise they do ungalved chassis, there used to be a couple of firms years ago which offered both options with a fair difference in price.
it would be nice if i could get a bare steel one 2-3 hundred quid cheaper.
