fortgrange

Active Member
Mot isn't due on the Classic for a few months but had a good look underneath today. Off side sill is 95% solid but has an approx 6 inch stretch that is fairly rusty and I assume would fail an Mot. If that section was cut out and a new section welded in, would that be sufficient for the mot, or would the whole sill have to be replaced?

Thanks for any pointers.
 
Mot isn't due on the Classic for a few months but had a good look underneath today. Off side sill is 95% solid but has an approx 6 inch stretch that is fairly rusty and I assume would fail an Mot. If that section was cut out and a new section welded in, would that be sufficient for the mot, or would the whole sill have to be replaced?

Thanks for any pointers.

Providing rest is solid, cut it out and replace that portion. It has to be a continuous weld though.
 
Thanks for that Wammers. Rest of the sill is really solid. Gave it a good whack with a hammer, makes a luvly metallic sound. Where as the dodgy section you could put your fingers through. Just need to find a good welder as my welding skills are non excistant!!
 
Is it rusty or rotten? If rusty just clean it up and coat in whatever. Paint or underseal etc. If rotten do as previous poster suggests.
 
Is it rusty or rotten? If rusty just clean it up and coat in whatever. Paint or underseal etc. If rotten do as previous poster suggests.

I would say its more rotten than rusty. But only in a very small section. Its always amazed me how rust can rot metal for a few inches and leave the next few feet untouched. Maybe someone can enlighten me with the chemical theory:confused:
 
Get the side skirts off it and make sure it's not eating the side of the sill too, fairly easy to get off you just need to order the clips to refit the skirt as once they're off that's them cooked :)
mines has just had the drivers side done at the rear below the passenger door then coated in waxoyl inside and out. Should cost too much to have the job done I you o the prep work.
Get the angle grinder to it to cut out the crud, them buff it down to fresh metal (safety goggles a must)
You can buy sheets of metal from a body shop sales for about a tenner or strips for about £6
mines was MOT'd last Wednesday with nothing said :)
 
I'm probably wrong but if the rotten section is more than 30 cm away from a suspension mounting point or seat belt anchoring point, is it a testable area due to the Range Rover having a seperate chassis? Don't know why I've got that in my head, my dad used to run yanks with a seperate chassis and I've had a few truck but the test for those is completely different!!!

Cheers.
 
I oatched the sills and body mounts on my brown RRC MOT inspecter said it was ok apart from I had spot welded the lower lip not seem welded it
 
Get the side skirts off it and make sure it's not eating the side of the sill too, fairly easy to get off you just need to order the clips to refit the skirt as once they're off that's them cooked :)
mines has just had the drivers side done at the rear below the passenger door then coated in waxoyl inside and out. Should cost too much to have the job done I you o the prep work.
Get the angle grinder to it to cut out the crud, them buff it down to fresh metal (safety goggles a must)
You can buy sheets of metal from a body shop sales for about a tenner or strips for about £6
mines was MOT'd last Wednesday with nothing said :)

Thanks for that and the link DC. I've got a few months to prep it so looking foward to having a go with the angle grinder!!
 
I oatched the sills and body mounts on my brown RRC MOT inspecter said it was ok apart from I had spot welded the lower lip not seem welded it

If you mean bottom seam outer sill to inner sill (part with body mounts), that is spot welded from factory he can't knock that back. It only has to be seamless weld if you are replacing material you have cut out of a solid structural panel.
 

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