gjm123

New Member
In the UK, it'd be cheaper to buy a Defender 110! In NZ... A decent series Landie goes for $15k; good Defenders go for lots more. :(

Importing from the UK could be an option, but I like the Series and importing one of them is a nightmare - essentially, it'd have to be factory fresh before it'd be allowed into NZ.

So... I have a line on a LWB 2ΒΌ petrol 2-door hardtop with side windows, and a Sankey trailer, for a little over $2k (NZ). Yes - it needs work, but I've done LR chassis repairs before. That doesn't phase me.

We want to convert it (and the trailer) for use as a camper. It's not intended to see serious off-road work, but we don't want to be restricted to the well-beaten path (or a Transit conversion would suit. Yuck.)

The difficulty is that my wife has a back injury which means she cannot use a clutch. Well, she can, but I'll have to lift her out of the vehicle after 10 minutes driving. And as we anticipate doing some distance, up some reasonable hills at times, diesel would be much preferred.

Lots of 200 and 300TDi conversions have been done, but most bolt on to the stock Series gearbox. I've had a quick look (and will look more carefully) but haven't seen any threads detailing install of a 200 (or300) TDi with automatic gearbox into a Series. (I've know of some of the issues - use a 300TDI turbo on a 200TDi engine to avoid chassis issues, use longer bump stops or taller engine mounts to avoid pulley/axle interaction...)

The engine and 'box would probably have to come from a Disco. The 200TDi has it's own inherent issues, the 300TDi is probably smoother (and the 23L a little more powerful) but less economical... I can probably find a cheap donor Disco diesel to provide what is needed, but donor Defenders with auto 'boxes are far scarcer than hens teeth.

Any thoughts? I'm really hoping that someone has done this already!
 
its possible but you need the tdi auto to go with the tdi engine and youd likely need to put the engine right forward and use defender bonnet and grill like the stage 1 v8 series
 
Thanks James.

Fitting the 'box/engine as a package was my plan - it makes the most sense.

Others have fitted a 200TDi (or 300TDi) and bolted it up to a series manual gearbox. Presumably the gearbox wasn't relocated?
Is the auto 'box significantly different, requiring relocation? If the tunnel, or even the bulkhead, requires modification then that's fair enough. I anticipate the shift lever arrangement will require changes.

This is why I'm asking questions! :)
 
its possible but you need the tdi auto to go with the tdi engine and youd likely need to put the engine right forward and use defender bonnet and grill like the stage 1 v8 series

I've done some more looking for answers (I hesitate to call it research at this stage!) but can't find anything relating to a need to relocate the engine forward. Sadly, everything I have found has related to a TDi engine and bolting it to a series gearbox and not using the automatic.
Why might it be necessary to relocate the engine (and gearbox)?
 
I did some digging on rad sizes to see what problems this might present.

The 300TDi (Defender, Disco) radiator is 0.52m x 0.8m x 0.13m.

A series radiator looks to be 0.47m x 0.44m x 0.05m.

(There's also the question of an intercooler which could require relocation if fitting a TDi engine into a series LR.)

So, the TDi rad is (essentially) twice the width, and twice the depth of the series rad. Without trying it, I couldn't say if the additional depth will require accommodation or if there is sufficient room already: this will also depend on the length of the TDi engine compared with a series engine. However, if a S3 can fit the 6-cylinder engine and rad with the recessed grille area, I wouldn't anticipate a serious problem with the (depth of the) TDi rad. I could so easily be wrong...

Additional width may be a different matter.
 
Something else which occurred to me which may present an issue for the conversion I'd like to do...

Most 200/300TDi conversions (especially 200TDi) are done as a bolt-up to the series gearbox. (I think the 300TDi is a bit more involved.)
The automatic gearbox conversion I want/need would use the (probably) Disco 4HP22.

How is a series front axle going to cope with a gearbox designed for permanent four-wheel-drive?
 
I don't know how the disco box splits the drive or varies it during cornering but, the series axle should be able to cope provided it's in good condition to begin with. Also, I guess it depends on how many miles you are going to cover per year.

Col
 
LT230 is basically a centre diff. If you unlocked FWH then you'd have to drive in difflock to get RWD. I dont know how good this would be for the front axle either
 
The last pair of 24 spline axles I sold on eBay where bought by a bloke retro fitting them to a series but keeping the leaf sprung suspension....
 
The last pair of 24 spline axles I sold on eBay where bought by a bloke retro fitting them to a series but keeping the leaf sprung suspension....
I've been around Land Rovers for over 30 years, but this is the first time I've considered an automatic gearbox conversion. Couple that with plans for a non-standard (later) engine and I seem to have created a bit of a monster!
Goes to show - you're always learning. Taking that into account... What is the advantage of the 24-spline axle conversion?
 
I've been around Land Rovers for over 30 years, but this is the first time I've considered an automatic gearbox conversion. Couple that with plans for a non-standard (later) engine and I seem to have created a bit of a monster!
Goes to show - you're always learning. Taking that into account... What is the advantage of the 24-spline axle conversion?
Stronger and gives you disk brakes all around rather than drums
 
Stronger and gives you disk brakes all around rather than drums

I don't have an issue with drums. They're simple and generally effective provided they're properly maintained.
Discs are certainly better of course, especially after a water crossing of any sort. Until now I'd not seriously considered a conversion... Would work well as a part of a coil spring conversion, but (I'm asking myself) do I want to go that far?
 

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