so my frnt caliper a 110 is fooked replacements coming but i just cant get the old one off
bottom bolt hardest thing i ever done
the top bolt wont budge to the point its partlt stripped the head.
so any tips on how to get out as ususl method wont work because cant get a straight line to
it to drill
any advice apprecited
my only extreme choice would be spacer of, disc off and try from the other end is that possible?
 
What everyone else is saying, Irwin's + get some decent penetrating oil on it NOT wd40, I use "Plusgas" plenty others out there.
 
As all the above guys have said...Irwins [they are very good], Plusgas and heat...but use Mapgas [not low temp Butane] readily available from Screwfix. Soak nuts/bolts overnight with Plusgas, then get super hot and dive straight in with twin ring spanners [one to hold/lock, the over to crack nut] then keep going with ratchet or impact gun. The trick is to not let the nut & bolt cool down as they'll be even tight than before!

Warning - post heating, your ring end and nuts will be very hot...o_O
 
Irwin bolt removers, the dogs whatsits.
Got me out of the siht many times.
Worst comes to the worst, grinder and cut the caliper to pieces.
hi i just cut the caliper lenghtwise as i was thinking if i could get disc of i could access from the other side
 
As all the above guys have said...Irwins [they are very good], Plusgas and heat...but use Mapgas [not low temp Butane] readily available from Screwfix. Soak nuts/bolts overnight with Plusgas, then get super hot and dive straight in with twin ring spanners [one to hold/lock, the over to crack nut] then keep going with ratchet or impact gun. The trick is to not let the nut & bolt cool down as they'll be even tight than before!

Warning - post heating, your ring end and nuts will be very hot...o_O
will the irwins work on a 12 sided head i thought thwy were for 6 sided
 
hi i just cut the caliper lenghtwise as i was thinking if i could get disc of i could access from the other side

I was just thinking literally cut it to pieces in any shape/pattern, so you can get to the threaded bit, then it will be easy to cut off that bit and that is it.
 
Guess what guys irwins gripped well, was really straining on the breaker and can't believe the socket snapped in half took less than 10 seconds, so that's round 2 anybody any ideas for round 3?it
 
Guess what guys irwins gripped well, was really straining on the breaker and can't believe the socket snapped in half took less than 10 seconds, so that's round 2 anybody any ideas for round 3?it
as has been pointed out hit the head of the bolt extremely hard mant times it will eventually loosen it , keep trying a socket so head doesnt mushroom too much
 
@ghostrider , as James above and previous posts - Plusgas soak, Mapgas heat and hit the bolt head with a 4kg lump hammer [claw hammers are no good as have no mass behind them]. Don't over hit the bolt head but at the same time don't be afraid to clout it. If you have a of 10mm steel plate use the flat the plate on the bolt head flat to stop potential damage, then thwack it a good few times - it will release.
 
all great ideas would my problem the top bolt sits in a recess so hard to lube, cut, even hit withn the bloody hammer i got the torch for a beter look on it and its pretty rounded off i think will try the pluggas then mapgas with another replacement irwin socket.
it there atool that drilld into the bolt so another bolt can be threaded inside it usually a couple of mm narrower then that bolt unscrews it .
is it my imagination or do i need to invent it
 

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