NikTheGeek

NikTheGeek

New Member
I currently own a top spec 2001 Rover 75 (BMW diesel engine) and despite what everyone thinks about these cars, the diesel one is extremely reliable. I did have a failed Jacto auto box though which cost £700 to fix, but apart from that, they are an easy car to own and most servicing type jobs I'll tackle myself.

I've previously owned a Series III 88" Landy and 2 Isuzu Troopers. I now need another 4x4 to tow the wifes new horse so I'm shopping again.

It would be a Defender, but I can't afford one. I have £5k tops to spend. Could get a Jap car again like the Isuzu, but I've always wanted a Range Rover. For years
icon_smile.gif
So, if I did, it would be a P38.

So, are they really that bad? Brakes, filters and simple repairs I'll do myself. I'll have a go a half the stuff in the Haynes manual (if I have one to follow) and enjoy servicing, modding and generally fiddling with cars. But it would have to be reliable enough to not break down on the way to work. It would be my day to day car.

I only get 29mpg now around town, so I'm not too worried about the drop. I assume it'll be better on a long run on a motorway?

Dealer or private? Dealer would give a warranty.

I know to watch out for tailgate rust and the air suspension. Anything else obvious?

Anyway, hello and fingers crossed....

Nick (Wigan)
 
Throw Haynes Manual in the bin - get RAVE.....

land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte

Muuuuuuuuuch Better....

As with all P38's never buy one with faults no matter what the guy selling it says....

Average 25.2mpg in the Diesel - may seem slow but they are quite spritley, they just have a wierd throttle response is all....

Hot start problems can be cured with a retimed pump - although most opt for an electronic box of tricks as a work around....

Get a post '99 or post 2000 model if you can - much better than earlier ones when most niggles were sorted out (but certainly are not niggle free!!)

The EAS is simple enough once you understand it.....

Loads of advice on here......

:welocme2: btw
 
Big budget! Should be able to get a peach with that.

Two loves is difficult. Hope wife is loyal and won't mind your diverted attentions.

G~
 
Make sure the heater blows hot and cold, and check it a lot during the test drive - there's a warning triangle that pops up in the display that means you need to phone the bank.
 
I don't think I would ever suggest to someone to buy a P38. I'm not saying they are any less reliable than any other 10-15 year old vehicle because if they are well maintained they will give you years of enjoyment. As gencybay says it is like suggesting to a friend to take a mistress - sooner or later it will end in tears but it will give you an immense amount of enjoyment along the way.
 
jt_armstrong said:
I don't think I would ever suggest to someone to buy a P38. I'm not saying they are any less reliable than any other 10-15 year old vehicle because if they are well maintained they will give you years of enjoyment. As gencybay says it is like suggesting to a friend to take a mistress - sooner or later it will end in tears but it will give you an immense amount of enjoyment along the way.
Click to expand...

Could not have put it any better
Regards
David
 
Do a site search, there was a recent thread with a full list of things to look out for.
IMO avoid one that has been put on coils and expect to replace the airsprings, not too expensive and easy DIY. Diesel is more reliable than the V8 and will give you better fuel economy, my long term average is 24mpg based on brim to brim records, up to 30mpg on a run taking it easy. Auto is better than manual on the diesel IMO as the torque convertor masks the lack of low end power.
Most things are DIYable if you are handy with spanners, but you will need a diagnostic tool.
 
Datatek said:
Do a site search, there was a recent thread with a full list of things to look out for.
IMO avoid one that has been put on coils and expect to replace the airsprings, not too expensive and easy DIY. Diesel is more reliable than the V8 and will give you better fuel economy, my long term average is 24mpg based on brim to brim records, up to 30mpg on a run taking it easy. Auto is better than manual on the diesel IMO as the torque convertor masks the lack of low end power.
Most things are DIYable if you are handy with spanners, but you will need a diagnostic tool.
Click to expand...

Agree entirely.
I'd say that whatever you buy they'll be a couple of faults, but most are easy to fix if you are moderately competent and willing.
(I suggest a pre-emptive search against the infamous RF receiver now...)
I mended 4 things on mine and now it is perfect :)
 
Well, got one. A Jan 2002 model with under 100k on the clock and 2 previous owners. It arrives on wednesday so fingers crossed. Its a nice dark metallic blue 2.5 DHSE with cream leather.

So, only a couple of things to ask. Air con has no illumination - found a fix for that on the internet. Radio says "code" (it is all HPI checked and clear and not nicked!). If the dealer can't find it can I get it on here? The cream leather, whilst it has no tears or rips, the leather is cracked in a couple of places on the drivers seat. Can I get a DIY dye? Finally, the black plastic trim where the windo electrics are is scratched. Will it come off easily to give it a fine sanding or can I paint it with something?

tnx - and hello. I'll be here regularly now! :)

Nik
 
NikTheGeek said:
Well, got one. A Jan 2002 model with under 100k on the clock and 2 previous owners. It arrives on wednesday so fingers crossed. Its a nice dark metallic blue 2.5 DHSE with cream leather.

So, only a couple of things to ask. Air con has no illumination - found a fix for that on the internet. Radio says "code" (it is all HPI checked and clear and not nicked!). If the dealer can't find it can I get it on here? The cream leather, whilst it has no tears or rips, the leather is cracked in a couple of places on the drivers seat. Can I get a DIY dye? Finally, the black plastic trim where the windo electrics are is scratched. Will it come off easily to give it a fine sanding or can I paint it with something?

tnx - and hello. I'll be here regularly now! :)

Nik
Click to expand...
Dealer should be able to give you the code - aslong as it is the original stereo....as far as I know there is noway of cracking of fudging the code....

Plastic if you are careful could be brought back to life - better to just get a decent surround from the likes of Emmots of COlne (sponsor above) or the Bay....

There are many leather rejuvination dyes and moisturisers around....

Air Con ilumination is mostly down to the little bulbs inside the unit - easy fix.....

Get some photos up when you can....
 
NikTheGeek said:
Well, got one. A Jan 2002 model with under 100k on the clock and 2 previous owners. It arrives on wednesday so fingers crossed. Its a nice dark metallic blue 2.5 DHSE with cream leather.

So, only a couple of things to ask. Air con has no illumination - found a fix for that on the internet. Radio says "code" (it is all HPI checked and clear and not nicked!). If the dealer can't find it can I get it on here? The cream leather, whilst it has no tears or rips, the leather is cracked in a couple of places on the drivers seat. Can I get a DIY dye? Finally, the black plastic trim where the windo electrics are is scratched. Will it come off easily to give it a fine sanding or can I paint it with something?

tnx - and hello. I'll be here regularly now! :)

Nik
Click to expand...

The car should have a leather (or plastic) folder with the owners handbook radio manual etc, in there you should find the radio code and the EKA code:)
The plastic is not black, it is white with a cheap and nasty black coating, sand it and your plastic will quickly change colour:eek:
 
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