ronsealdeath

Sagging Member
Hi I have play in my swivel 12 to 6 on the vertical axis, no play 3 to 9 horizontal.
Its minor but enough to trigger the abs light.
I want to try removing a shim from the top swivel pin, how does one go about this?
Ive checked my manuals and I was wondering whether I need to strip loads off and drain the swivel or can I just pull up the pin a bit and rip out the shim? Or is that a bodge?
Cheers!
 
Shims usually tighten things up...I surmise you have worn pins...

From what I can remember when I did my swivel pins, you shim until you the correct pull force on the swivel/hub not shim until you remove play....but I could be wrong.

Simple enough to do though, but I don't think it is a simple case of remove pin - take out shim - put pin back....

A certain preload will be required...you may aswell just replace the pins, bushes and shim correctly as it is a simple and cheap enough job
 
Shims usually tighten things up...I surmise you have worn pins...

From what I can remember when I did my swivel pins, you shim until you the correct pull force on the swivel/hub not shim until you remove play....but I could be wrong.

Simple enough to do though, but I don't think it is a simple case of remove pin - take out shim - put pin back....

A certain preload will be required...you may aswell just replace the pins, bushes and shim correctly as it is a simple and cheap enough job

You are not wrong the swivel bearings are pre loaded. Forget what it is, maybe about 3lbs of pull on a spring balance.:D:D
 
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You are not wrong the swivel bearings are pre loaded. Forget what it is, maybe about 9lbs of pull on a spring balance.:D:D

I know there is a different preload depending on if you have ABS or not...what the values are I forget.....
 
I know there is a different preload depending on if you have ABS or not...what the values are I forget.....

Don't know where the 9 lbs came from maybe for a diff pinion. But the preload is 2.6 to 3.2 lbs on a spring balance hooked through the steering arm.
 
but to answer question..yes you can.undo bolts pull out.remove a shim or two..put back

use fishing type spring balance to check..its more than stated (lr do it without seal)cos you need to take into account drag from swivel seal..dont forget to remove steering ball joint if actually gonna test ..but just and only just removing the vertical play is a good guideline.(caliper removed)
yes you will lose oil..no big deal..
 
You don't need to remove the swivel to remove shim. You Just have to get the brake line out of the way a bit. Make sure you clean everything up really well before you open it up so crap doesn't fall into the bearing. Oil WILL dribble out of the bottom of the swivel when the pressure is released from the bearing, so put something underneath it to catch the spill. You may be able to remedy it by merely removing a shim, but sometimes you'll find that you need new shim size to create the proper tension.

Here a link to a fairly efficient explanation of the process: Wheel_wobble
 
You are not wrong the swivel bearings are pre loaded. Forget what it is, maybe about 3lbs of pull on a spring balance.:D:D

exactly 10lbs is ok with a rialko bush as early defender or series but 2 taper bearings 2-3 lb more than enough
 
You don't need to remove the swivel to remove shim. You Just have to get the brake line out of the way a bit. Make sure you clean everything up really well before you open it up so crap doesn't fall into the bearing. Oil WILL dribble out of the bottom of the swivel when the pressure is released from the bearing, so put something underneath it to catch the spill. You may be able to remedy it by merely removing a shim, but sometimes you'll find that you need new shim size to create the proper tension.

Here a link to a fairly efficient explanation of the process: Wheel_wobble

bottle jack under bottom pin with a little load to keep housing located tight on bottom bearing helps
 
You can easily remove a shim without worrying about anything else. Just top 2 bolts to remove. Make sure you support the whole swivel assembley when you pull the pin out remove a shim and refit.

I think I'm right in saying the preload settings mentioned above are supposed to be done before the swivel seal is clamped in but I'm sure if you use a bit common sense you will get on fine. The hub should be able to freely pivot without play. If its too tight it can bind up.

Mark
 
Thanks all for the advice, ive got limited time this xmas to sort some bits out so ill see if I can free up enough to replace the pin. Otherwise ill try the quick and dirty method!
I take it the abs sensor just prises out?
Thanks again all much appreciated
 
Yep, sensor is a friction fit inside a thin metal 'sleeve' which is pushed into the top pin...
 
Yep, sensor is a friction fit inside a thin metal 'sleeve' which is pushed into the top pin...

Thanks.

Great ABS setup when they are working apparently, but man, they lead you on a wild goose chase to get working correctly! Just this sensor gap to sort now with the xs swivel play and touch wood, I'll have an ABS light free Rangey.:eek: For now.

I do wonder if there has been some damage caused though as the P/O hadn't put the lock tab over the bearing nut. It had a lot of play in it when i did it last week. I wondered why it was all over the shop on the M4! So hopefully it hasn't done anything drastic.
 

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