Oldpilot said:
I've got the same problem. Once I go above 52 if I hit a pothole I get the wobble/shake on the steering wheel. It sails through the MOT but the problem remains.
Perhaps my wheels need balancing?
Click to expand...
If a pothole sets it off, I doubt it will be wheel balance. Track rod ends, drag link, steering damper etc.
 
Mine was being set of by potholes, the ball joints seemed ok, but they were the last thing that I could have tried. A clunk had developed recently, and as I had already replaced pretty much everything else in that area, those ball joints were the next suspect. Replacing them has done the trick.

Lower ball joints:
Ball Joint Front Lower (Lemforder) FTC3571G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Upper ball joints:
Ball Joint Front Upper (Lemforder) FTC3570G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
 
I had previously done:
Suspension bushes
Track rod ends
Track rod
Drag link
Shock absorbers
Air springs
Wheel bearings
Steering damper

Whilst I had the wheels off and the hubs in bits, I did the discs and pads too.

Everything is fine now.
 
Datatek said:
There is no A frame on a P38, that refers to the Classic.
Click to expand...

Ahhh I'd like to say it was a school boy error OR even I was just testing him, but the truth been known I'm just a novice and my lack of experience has failed me yet again lol But I am learning a lot about these cars, so it's all good
 
merlinpjl said:
Mine was being set of by potholes, the ball joints seemed ok, but they were the last thing that I could have tried. A clunk had developed recently, and as I had already replaced pretty much everything else in that area, those ball joints were the next suspect. Replacing them has done the trick.

Lower ball joints:
Ball Joint Front Lower (Lemforder) FTC3571G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Upper ball joints:
Ball Joint Front Upper (Lemforder) FTC3570G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Click to expand...

merlinpjl said:
I had previously done:
Suspension bushes
Track rod ends
Track rod
Drag link
Shock absorbers
Air springs
Wheel bearings
Steering damper

Whilst I had the wheels off and the hubs in bits, I did the discs and pads too.

Everything is fine now.
Click to expand...

That's great info thanks, the problem you describe, is just what this car suffers from and like your self I did replace pretty much all of it but it still done it!! to be honest it was one of the biggest reasons I sold the car in the first place, but now I have it back, knowing the car never moved there is no way that got attempted! so that will be the first thing I will do, as soon as I have sorted out my latest saga:rolleyes:
 
Good luck, make sure you have lots of time and somewhere dry to work. You will definitely need oxyacetylene to warm up the collars.

I bought a ball-joint extraction tool set from eBay, but it couldn't get the pressure on without the help of the welding torch.
 
thepipersson said:
Ahhh I'd like to say it was a school boy error OR even I was just testing him, but the truth been known I'm just a novice and my lack of experience has failed me yet again lol But I am learning a lot about these cars, so it's all good
Click to expand...

We all gotta start somewhere bud...!!
 
I guess i have the same problem of ball joints because my P38 bounces left to right after hitting a bump or pothole on the highway like an old american limo ;)
 
merlinpjl said:
Good luck, make sure you have lots of time and somewhere dry to work. You will definitely need oxyacetylene to warm up the collars.

I bought a ball-joint extraction tool set from eBay, but it couldn't get the pressure on without the help of the welding torch.
Click to expand...

Saint.V8 said:
We all gotta start somewhere bud...!!
Click to expand...

wammers said:
If you do the ball joins always a good idea to get the tracking checked. :):)
Click to expand...


Thanks guys, that's going to be Fridays job of the day, Ill let you know how I get on:rolleyes:
 
merlinpjl said:
Good luck, make sure you have lots of time and somewhere dry to work. You will definitely need oxyacetylene to warm up the collars.

I bought a ball-joint extraction tool set from eBay, but it couldn't get the pressure on without the help of the welding torch.
Click to expand...


Hi mate, just got a question about what happened to you.

Was the shaking really severe, like tried to take the steering wheel out of your hand and the whole car shook?

This happened to me this morning at about 50, now I have just renewed the radius arm bushes which I think made it worse as they are new and solid. I planned to do the ball joints in the next few weeks but what happened plane scared me! Never had anything that bad before!

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Yes, the shaking was really bad, I had to pull over on to the hard shoulder to check that the wheels weren't falling off! The shake was so violent, I had to stop to stop the shake, it was as if it was amplifying itself and getting worse in a very short few seconds.
 
merlinpjl said:
Yes, the shaking was really bad, I had to pull over on to the hard shoulder to check that the wheels weren't falling off! The shake was so violent, I had to stop to stop the shake, it was as if it was amplifying itself and getting worse in a very short few seconds.
Click to expand...


Thanks mate, I had this a tiny bit before I replaced the radius arm bushes but I got a real shock this morning toodling along to work!! It was the worst shake I have experienced in a car ever!

I was planning on doing the ball joints myself in a few weeks but so bad was this shake I have booked into a garage tomorrow to do them!!


Cheers
 
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