T

Tomster

Member
Can anyone advise what might be causing the engine to shake at idle?
Recently replaced maf sensor after cleaning the old one made no difference. Car runs much better now but shakes at idle.If anyone has any ideas please?
Engine seems to knock when revs drop. Exhaust back box also shakes like the proverbial dog.
Thank you.
Tried uploading a video but it wouldn’t let me
 
Have you checked the engine mounts? The top engine end one and the lower tie bar are the main culprits for failure I believe.
 
Knowing what vehicle would help.

You have to upload videos to YouTube, then link them here. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Knowing what vehicle would help.

You have to upload videos to YouTube, then link them here. ;)
Click to expand...
sorry forgot to mention. TD4 56 plate. Have noticed that on start up it can shake quite harshly but will drive quite well, especially with new maf. If I stop and then restart then it starts shaking again and then can settle down and drive nice again. When driving and stop at lights etc it idles quite well without shaking, mainly rough after restart.
ian mitchell said:
my fl2 did this it was the bottom offside mount ,the rubber had broken away from the aluminium housing.
Click to expand...
 
Mine had been running fine, but failed its WOF (MOT) on the top mount. I replaced the rubber mount and it passed the WOF, but the car vibrated badly - mainly at idle.

The old mount looked in perfect condition, so I put that back on and the vibration stopped. Its passed at least 4 WOFs since.

Having said that, if that was my car, I'd be putting some injector cleaner in the tank as a first off if I couldn't identify what was causing it.
 
Had three lots of injector cleaner in already.
Started this morning idled ok.
Drove to work(5 miles) parked up and was ticking over lovely, turned off ignition and waited about 10 seconds and restarted, engine started shaking again.
Done fault code scan with car scanner app, no codes.
Done emission test scan, results in pic.
Any ideas?
 

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In my experience you need better diagnostics for the TD4.
However I'd start with the basics first, like fuel rail connection for corrosion.
Really you need to get the live engine data for fuel pressures and boost pressure.
 
Ok, just tried the disconnect each injector in turn test to see how it would idle.
From left to right facing the engine from the front of car 1 2 3 4.
Removed connector from number 1 made no difference to how engine run.
2 & 3 engine spluttered.
Number 4 engine spluttered but a little worse than 2 & 3.
Does this sound like my problem could be number 1 injector is goosed?
Thanks for all the help.
 
Tomster said:
Ok, just tried the disconnect each injector in turn test to see how it would idle.
From left to right facing the engine from the front of car 1 2 3 4.
Removed connector from number 1 made no difference to how engine run.
2 & 3 engine spluttered.
Number 4 engine spluttered but a little worse than 2 & 3.
Does this sound like my problem could be number 1 injector is goosed?
Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...
left off number one connector and started engine(hesitated slightly but started first time). Check engine light came on and light went out when reconnected
Anyone make any sense of all that? As you can probably tell, I ain’t no mechanic
Cheers….
Should I start spraying plus gas around injector in case it needs to come out? Will that stuff be ok when engine gets hot?
Only other thing I didn’t mention is it is probably overdue for a fuel filter!
 
Any ideas anyone please?
Does disconnecting one injector and not noticing any difference in how the engine runs mean that said injector is knackered?
Cheers…
 
It would be a strong indicator for a bad injector, or that the injector isn't receiving fuel or an injection signal. There's also a low possibility that valves on that cylinder could be stuck open, causing it to not fire, although you should get some indications from an unusual exhaust if fuel is going through unburnt.
 
Should I start spraying plus gas around injector in case it needs to come out? Will that stuff be ok when engine gets hot?
Click to expand...
i replaced all 4 injectors .. last year @ 192k miles ..
i took the injector cover off .. and re-inserted the far left-hand [off-side] cover bolt
[ as oil will escape from that particular bolt hole if left open ]
gave the area around the injectors a good daily dose of wd-40 ..
whether it were driven .. or not

after a week or so .. tackled the injector removal job ..
injectors came out without any fuss at all ..

the wd-40 was contained in the area .. it didn't spill out
[ like .. you don't want it near exhaust parts ;-]

`````````````````````````````````````````````````````
if you do replace an injector .. you'll need tools ..
like an injector seat cutter .. bore cleaning brush ..
a vacuum cleaner attachment for removing bore deposits

this yt vid might be useful ..


`````````````````````````````````````````````````
 
Thanks for all the advice. Will I have to remove inlet manifold? What is a seat cutter? Will I need new copper washer and a seal? Any recommendations where to get good reconditioned injector for F1 TD4 facelift 56 plate.
Cheers
 
Tomster said:
Thanks for all the advice. Will I have to remove inlet manifold? What is a seat cutter? Will I need new copper washer and a seal? Any recommendations where to get good reconditioned injector for F1 TD4 facelift 56 plate.
Cheers
Click to expand...

No need to remove the manifold, although unless it's been cleaned recently, it could do with some maintenance. ;)

You shouldn't need a seat cutter, unless the seat is damaged.

You'll need a new copper washer.

Put plenty of penetrating oil on for a couple of days, then it should come out ok.
 
Thanks for all the helpful replies.
A little update that might help you knowledgeable people help me diagnose the problem.

got home from work and once again carried out the disconnect/reconnect test. When I started the engine it seemed to be idling ok so I disconnected the suspect injector. This time it started to splutter which it didn’t yesterday. Reconnected and it started idling fine again. Did this several times and same again, seemed like it was working again. After a few mor connect/ disconnects it reverted back to making no difference whether it was connected or not, engine just idled rough. Each time I removed the connector the check light would come on and would extinguish when reconnected.
Does this shed any more light to what the problem is most likely to be?
Sorry for all the questions but it’s doing my head in and don’t want to be forking out for injector if it’s something else.(Don’t mind forking out if that’s what it definitely is).
All thoughts much appreciated.

cheers
 
Tomster said:
Does this shed any more light to what the problem is most likely to be?
Click to expand...

Sounds like the injector could be iffy.
Just for reference, disconnecting the injector with the engine running isn't good for the EDC, and can also leave the injector open all the time, which isn't good for the engine.
 
Nodge68 said:
Sounds like the injector could be iffy.
Just for reference, disconnecting the injector with the engine running isn't good for the EDC, and can also leave the injector open all the time, which isn't good for the engine.
Click to expand...
Could you or any other members recommend anywhere for recon injector? Been looking on line at Pfjones… anyone recommend this guy?
gonna cost about £100 with my old one posted back to them.
Cheers….
 
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