Thanks
.... Save your knee, and the need to remember this thread - do the job now !!
Thanks
.... Save your knee, and the need to remember this thread - do the job now !! 
Biggest problem I see with putting a servo inside the "cab" as it were, would be if a fluid leak occurs ... it'll make a mess in short order, plus the issue of bleeding such a long circuit..... though the satisfying "hiss" might be quite interesting is a weird sort of way
@dieseldog69 if some more piccies would assist .... let me know
Well as you may or may not know, my Disco is LHD and the clutch run is from the opposite side of the bulkhead anyways, I was thinking that with my old age creeping up on me I should look at it now before I'm over the hills and far away
that being said, the flexy pipe is on the inside of the passenger footwell and the pipe run could be easily achieved and run inside the cab using a plate fitting in at the top and a second plate fitting lower down with a custom PTFE lined braided stainless clutch line.I'm just sounding this all out at present as my make work project of that little rust hole in the rear wheel arch has turned into the boot floor, side panels and now, miraculously, the rear body cross member
IMHO, the sooner you fit a servo, the longer your knee will last - so, yes, do it sooner rather than later .... also makes the vehicle so much nicer to drive
Ah! - that all sounds terribly familiar SWMBO has a 3 door too, and they seem to rot worse than the 5's - though quite how that is possible is beyond me - I have a 5 door, and that has, in the past, rotted for fun .... 99% cured now though, and remaining so if I have anything to do with it .....
I had forgotten the LHD bit though ... but thinking about it, I'm not sure how it makes any difference .... bundy length is essentially irrelevant ( Ok, it makes a difference, simple fluid dynamics says so, but .... measurably ? Pah! subjectively ? Nope!) ... and the vacuum hose is a standard size ... and, presumably yours already runs across the front of the scuttle - so if you put the servo where I did, then the T can be right next to it .... ?
IME of remote servo's ( not much, granted ) - I'd just make sure it was somewhere I could get to all the unions easily so bleeding the little darling is as easy as poss ..... first time I bled this it was tedious , then the bundy flare issues , and then not long ago, the slave let the smoke out , so I had to do it all again - I'm getting good at it now though
Ah! - that all sounds terribly familiar
SWMBO has a 3 door too, and they seem to rot worse than the 5's - though quite how that is possible is beyond me - I have a 5 door, and that has, in the past, rotted for fun .... 99% cured now though, and remaining so if I have anything to do with it ..... I had forgotten the LHD bit though ... but thinking about it, I'm not sure how it makes any difference .... bundy length is essentially irrelevant ( Ok, it makes a difference, simple fluid dynamics says so, but .... measurably ? Pah! subjectively ? Nope!) ... and the vacuum hose is a standard size ... and, presumably yours already runs across the front of the scuttle - so if you put the servo where I did, then the T can be right next to it .... ?
IME of remote servo's ( not much, granted ) - I'd just make sure it was somewhere I could get to all the unions easily so bleeding the little darling is as easy as poss ..... first time I bled this it was tedious
, then the bundy flare issues , and then not long ago, the slave let the smoke out , so I had to do it all again - I'm getting good at it now though
I had forgotten the LHD bit though ... but thinking about it, I'm not sure how it makes any difference .... bundy length is essentially irrelevant ( Ok, it makes a difference, simple fluid dynamics says so, but .... measurably ? Pah! subjectively ? Nope!) ... and the vacuum hose is a standard size ... and, presumably yours already runs across the front of the scuttle - so if you put the servo where I did, then the T can be right next to it .... ?
IME of remote servo's ( not much, granted ) - I'd just make sure it was somewhere I could get to all the unions easily so bleeding the little darling is as easy as poss ..... first time I bled this it was tedious
I was just looking at the electric vac pump as a neat and tidy solution to more gromets and ugly pipework where I don't want it.
I've spent a little time doing some mental gymnastics and I'm likely to go with a short flex pipe inside connecting via a banjo pipe and back out a little lower to the clutch damper pipe.
Cool
. Sounds like a plan - look forward to seeing in your rebuild thread - I'm all for tidying up I have no experience to quantify this suggestion, but from I have read, these pumps* are more efficient than engine driven devices, especially when used with a tank and some basic control switchgear - IOW, I wonder if this "pump" could also run the brake servo ? .... and get rid of the engine driven device - should save some noise too
*IIRC, it's technically incorrect to term a device which removes air a pump
... more or less everybody does it mind ... but there you go
*IIRC, it's technically incorrect to term a device which removes air a pump
Well we call a certain sucking action a "blow" job so I can't see it being wrong only technically LOLZ
Be a while away, summer I would guess, all priced up it ain't all that dear either
I have no experience to quantify this suggestion, but from I have read, these pumps* are more efficient than engine driven devices, especially when used with a tank and some basic control switchgear - IOW, I wonder if this "pump" could also run the brake servo ? .... and get rid of the engine driven device - should save some noise too
I just spent 5 mins looking and can't find it, but there was a thread somewhere on the interwebs about a guy removing the cam driven vac pump and fitting an Audi electric one to reduce the noise from the engine, think he also went as far as fitting an electric lift pump and getting rid of the cam driven one.
I'm sure i have read the same thread - pretty sure it was on one of the 'stralian fori ..... maybe ...
I like the idea of less noise, but I dislike the idea of reliance on more electrikery ... tho i 'spose "one" could carry a spare
or two
I used to be the same but more modern production and materials being used in the making of them means reliability has been greatly improved, gotta admit that never in my life at one point did i ever think an electric water pump on a car was a good idea but they've been coming on Audi's for decades nowI'm sure i have read the same thread - pretty sure it was on one of the 'stralian fori ..... maybe ...
I like the idea of less noise, but I dislike the idea of reliance on more electrikery ... tho i 'spose "one" could carry a spare
Hi bro would you be able to install that servo on my Landy please?Update:-
200 miles of use later, and the supplied bundy is leaking, due to a malformed end
@Flossie - I have attached a drawing with the sizes on ... hope it helps
Note that the clamp which holds the two halves of the servo can together protrudes from the can by 35mm, and that I had to move it to fit the servo in the Disco - its shown in the pictures in my OP.
Not really practical - you're a bit too far away ... but it's an easy DIY job, OR take this thread to you local trusted LR indy specialist
I can talk you through it if that helps
That be great, I would really appreciate your help. I have a defender 90 300tdi conversion done by some previous owner. Please advise where do I get parts from and at which location these could be installed in the engine bay. I have uploaded some pictures of the engine bay. ThanksNot really practical - you're a bit too far away ... but it's an easy DIY job, OR take this thread to you local trusted LR indy specialist
I can talk you through it if that helps
Attachments
Hi would it be easier to install plastic/rubber pipes with benzo sort of things? Thanks
Having re-read my own thread, the eblag item number is included, so .... Also, all the fittings are available there too
I have no idea
- I installed it in a D1, a somewhat different beast than a deafener.... also, as discussed above, whilst the length of the bundy's will be important with respect to bleeding the "new" system, it is not likely to have a noticeable, or even measurable affect, I.E. reduction in perceived assistance from the servo...Mmm - but the pictures are too small to be any use - <100kb is no good...
Plastic and rubber ? for which pipes ? Plastic might be ok for vacuum, depending on type of plastic and route etc., but not for brake fluid..
Who does your maintenance now ?
Attachments
Hi I meant to say, braided hoses alternative to bundy pipes. I don’t have any tools or experience to make these copper pipes. Recently I have removed the bulkhead and refitted after galvanising myself. Most of the things I do myself with YouTube’s . Simba 4x4 in Stourbridge use to maintain my Landy but don’t know where he has disappeared now. Recently Craddock has done the Mot and timing belt on my Landy. But they said they don’t do any mods. So I have to do it myself. I have seen a similar item on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144418529803?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=66fabeb23cc042be9629d611454983df&bu=43728561735&osub=-1~1&crd=20220406004810&segname=11051&sojTags=ch=ch,bu=bu,osub=osub,crd=crd,segname=segname,chnl=mkcidHaving re-read my own thread, the eblag item number is included, so .... Also, all the fittings are available there too
I have no idea
Mmm - but the pictures are too small to be any use - <100kb is no good...
Plastic and rubber ? for which pipes ? Plastic might be ok for vacuum, depending on type of plastic and route etc., but not for brake fluid..
Who does your maintenance now ?
I have found another EBay listing for 3.0 to 1 servo would that be better?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401669316062?hash=item5d855b5dde:g:zoMAAMXQBNlRhAIe
I am thinking to fit it exactly like other person has done with 1.9.1 ration. His web page link is on the first page. Please advise
Thanks
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Copper pipes are a no no. Cunifer is acceptable.
As stated above, I chose the 2.3:1 ratio as it was / is the largest servo which would fit in the space on a D1 - You really are asking the wrong person about whether this will fit in a deafener....Note that the larger servo will require greater volume of vacuum - which might be an issue - probably requiring an extra exhauster, AKA "vaccum pump" ( which is nonsense - vacuum cannot be pumped! ). There is also the problem of the servo being larger physically...
Craddocks don't do mods ? Well, I'd suggest a post on here to find a local to you independent with a brain
I presume you are referring to the guy on difflock, who installed the 1.9:1 servo on the inner wing ? If so, then the problem would be that the servo is not at the correct angle - see the instructions I linked to...
As stated above, I chose the 2.3:1 ratio as it was / is the largest servo which would fit in the space on a D1 - You really are asking the wrong person about whether this will fit in a deafener....Note that the larger servo will require greater volume of vacuum - which might be an issue - probably requiring an extra exhauster, AKA "vaccum pump" ( which is nonsense - vacuum cannot be pumped! ). There is also the problem of the servo being larger physically...
Craddocks don't do mods ?
Well, I'd suggest a post on here to find a local to you independent with a brain I presume you are referring to the guy on difflock, who installed the 1.9:1 servo on the inner wing ? If so, then the problem would be that the servo is not at the correct angle - see the instructions I linked to...
Hi thanks for your reply, I have tried to grasp the information now it does makes sense. I have noticed the installation location behind the intercooler and found another online thread on LR4x4 https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/89939-remote-servo-ratio-for-assisted-clutch-experiences-please/Copper pipes are a no no. Cunifer is acceptable.
As stated above, I chose the 2.3:1 ratio as it was / is the largest servo which would fit in the space on a D1 - You really are asking the wrong person about whether this will fit in a deafener....Note that the larger servo will require greater volume of vacuum - which might be an issue - probably requiring an extra exhauster, AKA "vaccum pump" ( which is nonsense - vacuum cannot be pumped! ). There is also the problem of the servo being larger physically...
Craddocks don't do mods ?
I presume you are referring to the guy on difflock, who installed the 1.9:1 servo on the inner wing ? If so, then the problem would be that the servo is not at the correct angle - see the instructions I linked to...
I will try to find someone as per your advise. Thanks for your precious time and help.
HTH.
I've just read the thread linked to above - it makes some interesting comments, the two that stand out are:-
Position, and orientation of the servo is important - it will be harder to bleed simply because of the added length of the pipework, and some care and planning is pretty much essential to make sure there are no "airlock opportunities", but as mentioned, most forms of power bleeder will resolve this.
There is no reduction in feel with a servo, and no increase in clutch wear because of one either
As for the "guy" that fitted a stronger return spring after fitting the servo, well
...LMHO I need someone professional who may help meHTH.
I've just read the thread linked to above - it makes some interesting comments, the two that stand out are:-
Position, and orientation of the servo is important - it will be harder to bleed simply because of the added length of the pipework, and some care and planning is pretty much essential to make sure there are no "airlock opportunities", but as mentioned, most forms of power bleeder will resolve this.
There is no reduction in feel with a servo, and no increase in clutch wear because of one either
As for the "guy" that fitted a stronger return spring after fitting the servo, well
