unless it needs discs I would not bother as disc do not really effect the braking efficiency unless they are in very poor condition.
or the bias or the pads or the fluid or the cylinder or the pedal etc..

just ask the MOT garage why it failed.. it's not hard?
 
or the bias or the pads or the fluid or the cylinder or the pedal etc..

just ask the MOT garage why it failed.. it's not hard?
The garage doesn’t necessarily know if they are a mot station rather than a proper mechanics garage. The reason from them might be as basic as when tested it fell below the required percentage! I also would not trust most garages to know what to do with any part of a defender which is why I do all the diagnosis and work myself. They would still be stood there wondering where to plug the laptop in to tell them what is wrong!
 
The garage doesn’t necessarily know if they are a mot station rather than a proper mechanics garage. The reason from them might be as basic as when tested it fell below the required percentage! I also would not trust most garages to know what to do with any part of a defender which is why I do all the diagnosis and work myself. They would still be stood there wondering where to plug the laptop in to tell them what is wrong!
To be a MOT tester.. you've got to be a qualified mechanic (it's one of the requirements)..

I'm sure if you said "hey what's wrong with my brakes you failed them on the MOT.." they'll tell you the issue so you can get it rectified..
 
I think you will find that has changed, the dvsa are training non mchanics to inspect hgvs for annual test, so I have to assume it is the same for cars.
That sounds a bit ridiculous to me. I guess we have to presume that they will be taught how to fail something but have no idea how to fix it!
More money in being a hgv mechanic than being a hgv mot tester?
 
That sounds a bit ridiculous to me. I guess we have to presume that they will be taught how to fail something but have no idea how to fix it!
More money in being a hgv mechanic than being a hgv mot tester?
Quite a bit more money, trucks have always paid more than cars.
Many car mechanics will have a side line fixing cars, you wont find many hgv mechs who toruch car/trucks outside of work, the car mechanics do not realise if they all did not private work, then the customers would have to use the garages which would drive the wages up so they would not have to do private jobs.

My last job they had a lady start who was a dvsa trained tester, yet she did not know one end of a spanner from the other, and the dvsa gave/lent her to us to train up as a mechanic, as apparently this is/was the latest thing as the dvsa could not get staff, mainly as their wages are dogshti!
 
I think you will find that has changed, the dvsa are training non mchanics to inspect hgvs for annual test, so I have to assume it is the same for cars.

Doesn't look like it?
  • be a skilled mechanic with at least 4 years’ full-time employment servicing and repairing the types of vehicles you’re going to test
 

Doesn't look like it?
  • be a skilled mechanic with at least 4 years’ full-time employment servicing and repairing the types of vehicles you’re going to test
Well I can only tell you what I saw with my own eyes.

Generally the whole game is being dumbed down as they are starting to twig very few people want to be mechanics.

Hope this helps, though this might just relate to hgvs?
2nd paragraph, 2nd line.

 
Industry experience is not required, DVSA says – just potential and an appetite to learn.

Oh dear, no wonder we are getting more 'Advisories' these days.
 
Put the vehicle on axle stands, check each wheel can be spun freely ie. none of the brakes are binding. If it passes this test then get someone to press the brake pedal whilst you check the clamping force of each wheel, use a crow bar (other brute force tools are available) to lever each wheel, this method is a bit crude but it will show up any obvious problems.
If all brakes appear to be working correctly it may just be some air in the lines and you should perform an all-round brake bleed.
 
If you have drums on rear they often "glaze over" and need be deglazed. I generally use aluminium oxide paper to clean rear drums on wifes car before mot. This often shows up on braked test but driving car brakes seem OK. I'd try this before spending money on brake fluid etc.
 

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