If you can lock the wheels it’s down to your tyres how fast you stop. Unfortunately most of the tyres we use can’t provide the grip on tarmac that a modern car can. With this in mind the loon behind should be able to look up from their satnav and stop before you.Do you lot honestly think our brakes are going to out perform modern equivalents, even with a nobber not paying attention
.If you can lock the wheels it’s down to your tyres how fast you stop
That is the same with me! I blame poor quality shoes, it certainly didn't stop any worse before I rebuilt it and that had leaking wheel cylinders!.
The only way the wheels will lock on my 88 is if the engine siezes up.............and thats with new brakes all round!
No reason what so ever well adjusted and serviced series brakes shunt lock. If pressed ard enough..
The only way the wheels will lock on my 88 is if the engine siezes up.............and thats with new brakes all round!
I'm afraid that you need the whole lot, when I changed the back plates were not available new so I found a decent pair of second hand ones and fitted all new cylinders, shoes and drums. They are a bit of a nightmare to set up and fade badly when used hard on the road, these days I would suggest going for a disc conversion rather than the stage 1 setup but when I did it they were not available.Do you rmember what parts are needed? Is it "just" the drums and shoes using the existing backplates and cylinders?
Unless you can provide a photo or video I call BS on this.When I put a Ford 2.8 into a SWB S3 I fitted the 3"wide drums from a Stage 1 V8. With decent rubber I could get it to actually do a "Stoppie" and lift the rear wheels a couple of foot in the air! Was rather painful when the rear came back down mind.
Are you running tubed rims with no tube? If so that is very irresponsible. Paramount with driving about without the steering wheel secured to the Vehcile.The riveted type is the early type wheel and was done this way to prevent distortion during construction.Later a way of welding the center to the rim without distorting the wheel was developed.
Large type tubeless valves are available on the fleabay.
Some say you should not go tubeless on these rims,however today good quality tubes are hard to find and many tires do not do well with tubes in them [ little ridges inside them rub through the tube ] I have run mine tubeless for several years now and have had a lot fewer punctures. You do need to have good condition rims.
Plenty of tubes available on eBay. Suspect they are not really any different to those available in past times.The disco wheels you can see in my profile picture
There the ones on the right so tubes needed.Can you get decent ones anywhere? The rims are in good nick.
Unfortunately it was 25 years ago so no video, but I'm not sure why you are that sceptical it is not that hard to do as can be seen on YouTube. The way we did it back then was to blank off the rear brakes with a small ball valve so all the effort went to the front, then remove the rear shockers to make the rear bounce. You then drive at about 20mph on a nice warm tarmac surface, break very hard for a second and then release the break the rear rebounds on the suspension and as it comes back up you stamp on the brake pedal for all you are worth which after a little practice brings the back wheels up. The vehicle was a soft top with nothing in the back.Unless you can provide a photo or video I call BS on this.
So basically a completely different story to just fitting a 2.8 V6 and bigger drums and it doing this on its own under normal use, as implied with your earlier postUnfortunately it was 25 years ago so no video, but I'm not sure why you are that sceptical it is not that hard to do as can be seen on YouTube. The way we did it back then was to blank off the rear brakes with a small ball valve so all the effort went to the front, then remove the rear shockers to make the rear bounce. You then drive at about 20mph on a nice warm tarmac surface, break very hard for a second and then release the break the rear rebounds on the suspension and as it comes back up you stamp on the brake pedal for all you are worth which after a little practice brings the back wheels up. The vehicle was a soft top with nothing in the back.
We were young with too much time on our hands.
Oh I agree the engine is irrelavent, it was just the reason I uprated the brakes. To be fair the 3"wide drums with twin leading shoe had much more bite than the old puney 1.5"single cylinder jobs that it was built with.So basically a completely different story to just fitting a 2.8 V6 and bigger drums and it doing this on its own under normal use, as implied with your earlier post
I believe you this time. But to be fair would likely do the same with the stock engine and standard brakes.