FFG

FFG

Active Member
Bought 4 wheels (5.5 wide) so I can put 7.50x16 tyres on as the rears on mine have cracked and need changing anyway (currently on Disco S1 steels). Had them shot blasted and when putting the red oxide noticed one is different from the other 3. Three have the inner and outer sections welded but the 4th has 3 studs through each section where the inner and outer join, so 12 in total. There is also a raised pimple showing on the tyre side. Which type needs a tube and what are the differences between the 2 as I assumed they would all be the same; how did I know it wouldn't be simple?
Thanks, FFG
 
Sounds like one of your wheels is an old fashioned split rim. Think the military used them at one stage. The idea being that you undo the bots holding the two halves of the wheel together and separate them making tyre changing a doddle. The reality I found was that they seem to get stuck together with rust as water would get trapped between the two halves. I would ditch the split rim and buy another welded one to match the other 3.
 
Bugger, wish I hadn't of had it shot blasted now. They aren't bolts and I can't see it being easy to split them as one side had a rounded head and the other is a bit flatter (the tyre side), similar to the rivets on the bonnet but bigger and more heavy duty. Do both types need a inner tube?
 
Oh ok, maybe just a two part wheel riveted together.
Certainly any two part wheel needs an inner tube as it wont hold air. As far as the welded rims are concerned, the main issue with going from inner tubes to tubeless is the size of the hole for the valve. Tubed type have a much bigger hole and you can't fit a tubeless valve stem to them. Going the other way you can drill the hole out with care and make sure the hole is well rounded on its corners.
 
The riveted type is the early type wheel and was done this way to prevent distortion during construction.Later a way of welding the center to the rim without distorting the wheel was developed.
Large type tubeless valves are available on the fleabay.
Some say you should not go tubeless on these rims,however today good quality tubes are hard to find and many tires do not do well with tubes in them [ little ridges inside them rub through the tube ] I have run mine tubeless for several years now and have had a lot fewer punctures. You do need to have good condition rims.
 
Tubeless have an inner rim/bulge round the wheel to stop the tyre being pushed inward. The lip obviously stops the tyre from being pushed outwards.
This would only be needed if some pressure was lost but the last thing you want is a slow puncture followed by the tyre letting go on a slow bend.
 
0242F376-EDC0-49B6-919B-B240C4EBC845.jpeg

The one on the left has the tubeless rim. The one on the right is tube only.
 
Do you have a picture of the disco rims on the vehicle, I would be interested to see how they look and if they have a good offset to fill the arches and not foul the chassis/springs.
thanks
 
Disco wheels increase the turning circle as they sit further in.
Pics show mine on disco wheels with 205 tyres.
Currently have modular wheels fitted with 750's
 

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Blackburn said:
Disco wheels increase the turning circle as they sit further in.
Pics show mine on disco wheels with 205 tyres.
Currently have modular wheels fitted with 750's
Click to expand...
Fog light and a reversing light................:eek:

Bleedin show off. :rolleyes:
 
No sick of old grannies screaming at me because my reversing light is off, reverse light and hazard lights as I do not want to get rear ended when I break down [which is not very often].
Have rear wiper and heated screen since that pic and spare is no longer on door [was breaking door frame] since that pic, mind those mods where a waste of time would not bother as no great benefit.
 
I managed to get four steel defender wheels n tyres that are obviously tubeless so I’ve never had to buy tubes.
 
Last edited:
Blackburn said:
rear wiper and heated screen since that pic
Click to expand...

I was thinking of putting a heated rear window on the s3 iirc the glass would be circa £50 plus a few quid for switch relay, wire etc, just confirming you are saying there wasn't much benefit?
 
Blackburn said:
No sick of old grannies screaming at me because my reversing light is off, reverse light and hazard lights as I do not want to get rear ended when I break down [which is not very often].
Have rear wiper and heated screen since that pic and spare is no longer on door [was breaking door frame] since that pic, mind those mods where a waste of time would not bother as no great benefit.
Click to expand...
I dont even have a rear view mirror :(
 
The heated screen is just on the surface of the glass so easily damaged and takes ages to clear. The wiper does the job as also the washer but the door mounted mirrors vibrate less than my internal one so I use the door ones.
 
I have a fog, reversing and a high level brake light because I too got fed up with watching drivers heading towards me as silly speeds
 
Blackburn said:
The heated screen is just on the surface of the glass so easily damaged and takes ages to clear. The wiper does the job as also the washer but the door mounted mirrors vibrate less than my internal one so I use the door ones.
Click to expand...

thx for the info, think I shall give it a miss then.
 
rob1miles said:
I have a fog, reversing and a high level brake light because I too got fed up with watching drivers heading towards me as silly speeds
Click to expand...
I put a brake light over the door. Folks do seem to be used to the rear of a car lighting up like a baboons bum.
 
Mine is over the door too, people now seem to look there rather than at the rear lights, also I think some follow so close that's about all they can see!
 
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