Hi all, bit of an update on my oil leak.

There was still oil on floor even with the plug, but i've found where the majority of oil is coming from, but first Please know i'm not a f#ckin idiot who's never done work on cars. ( although I do feel like a F#ckin idiot at the moment :vb-headbang::vb-surrender: )
When I changed the engine oil, had a bit left over, so cleaned the air filter housing & sprayed up nice shiny black, & put new oil in.
Turns out there is a pinhole in the base of the air filter housing, the oil is running down the side of an earth lead, then to the lowest point of the casing & mixing with the dirty oil that was coming from the drain plug, hence the apparent scary oil leak.

Let the mockery begin :vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-embarassed-laugh::vb-embarassed-laugh::vb-embarassed-laugh:
 
LincolnSteve said:
Just seen this from a thread from earlier this year. Looks like it's on a 90 not series but similar I suppose.

"I've spoken to a local garage that deals pretty much exclusively with Land Rovers. For the new seal to be fitted and a new clutch (may as well get it done while the engine or gearbox is out) they've quoted me around £1900! As I try to avoid using garages as much as possible as I mistrust most I don't know if this is massively excessive or about average?"

Here's the thread, https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/crank-seal-leak-2-25-petrol-90.387676/
Click to expand...
Would you not be a lot cheaper buying or hiring an engine crane and doing it yourself. I have pulled and rebuilt a few engines in the street even from a third floor flat in Glasgow, its just a bit of management and keeping everything secure when you are not there (particularly at night)
 
herby1 said:
Hi all, bit of an update on my oil leak.

There was still oil on floor even with the plug, but i've found where the majority of oil is coming from, but first Please know i'm not a f#ckin idiot who's never done work on cars. ( although I do feel like a F#ckin idiot at the moment :vb-headbang::vb-surrender: )
When I changed the engine oil, had a bit left over, so cleaned the air filter housing & sprayed up nice shiny black, & put new oil in.
Turns out there is a pinhole in the base of the air filter housing, the oil is running down the side of an earth lead, then to the lowest point of the casing & mixing with the dirty oil that was coming from the drain plug, hence the apparent scary oil leak.

Let the mockery begin :vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-surrender::vb-embarassed-laugh::vb-embarassed-laugh::vb-embarassed-laugh:
Click to expand...
Fantastic news mate! No mockery here. Just glad of a nice simple fix. Good on yer.
 
Nice one I’ve had several bonehead moments but it’s great when you figure it out, really you need to be a forensic mechanic and look at and check every detail, which I found in last week on my brakes.

I had the drums binding when wheel on …. This was shoes rubbing on brake adjuster screws!
then brake pulling was only one shoe working which I tested with chalk lines across the shoes , this was sticky wheel cylinder which would turn with screwdriver in slot but hard to push out onto shoe 🙄
 
Thanks for the positive feedback, yep, got the same with mystery air getting in the brake pipes, nice job for the weekend, fiddley & tedious but gotta be done.
 
I got one of these good for bleeding and changing brake fluid , got mine for £50 from screwfix a couple of years ago , so easy just pump up and open bleed screws sorts my twin leading front brakes no probs
IMG_3085.jpeg
 
steve2286w said:
I got one of these good for bleeding and changing brake fluid , got mine for £50 from screwfix a couple of years ago , so easy just pump up and open bleed screws sorts my twin leading front brakes no probs
View attachment 301179
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip, I was looking at getting one of these things. Is the cap on the Laser 4832 a good fit for the series 3 brake fluid reservoir?
 
andyh68 said:
Thanks for the tip, I was looking at getting one of these things. Is the cap on the Laser 4832 a good fit for the series 3 brake fluid reservoir?
Click to expand...
From memory it's the only one of our cars where it does fit properly. The others need a bit of ptfe or insulating tape to get a good seal. There's no need to go mad on pumping to max pressure - the oil will still get to the wheels faster than you can.
 
andyh68 said:
Thanks for the tip, I was looking at getting one of these things. Is the cap on the Laser 4832 a good fit for the series 3 brake fluid reservoir?
Click to expand...
Yes good seal , just pump to about 7psi is all you need for one corner , what’s left in the bleeder can neatly be poured back into the dot4 bottle
 
And once again back to square one, the drip became a steady flow but only after switching off but it’s so annoying now.
I guess that’s my project for spring when the snow has gone.
Any tips guys?
Yes of course I’m going to NOT use the 5 quid seal but go for the OEM.
Could there be anything else to look out for?

Cheers
Alpine madness
Simon
 
Should follow the green 5mb supplement in the workshop manual which covers it nicely
could also check the flywheel teeth see if they’re ok , just changed mine recently as well worn,
an engine crane will be handy but possible to remove gearbox without it using timber across door tops with straps and jacks can work

if not been into seatbox then the bolts can get hard to remove so some pre works will make it easier on the day(s) , may need cutting off with mini grinder don’t replace with nylons though as a pain as plain nuts just spin on
 
steve2286w said:
Should follow the green 5mb supplement in the workshop manual which covers it nicely
could also check the flywheel teeth see if they’re ok , just changed mine recently as well worn,
an engine crane will be handy but possible to remove gearbox without it using timber across door tops with straps and jacks can work

if not been into seatbox then the bolts can get hard to remove so some pre works will make it easier on the day(s) , may need cutting off with mini grinder don’t replace with nylons though as a pain as plain nuts just spin on
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve,
yea its actually our 3rd attempt at this, jup we have a crane and like last time will be taking the gearbox out. Floor pan and seat box bolts should be easy as we replaced all of em last time.
I'm hopeful that the last two failures are due to cheap second rate seals which is why this time its an OEM.
I am wondering if there could be damage on the block where the seal meets it and if there is anything that could be done if there is scoring that could exasperate a leak. I know your not supposed to use any kind of sealer on the seal but should there be damage would not a little hylomar help?

Is there any difference in Haynes instructions from the green book?

Thanks guys

Simon
 
Hi Simon, A touch of RTV silicon around the outer edge of the OEM Dowty seal where it contacts the flywheel housing is ok.
Be sure none gets on the crank seal itself which must remain dry. [ seal has Teflon in it ]
The last one I did was reluctant to go in the housing so it went in the freezer for a while and then pressed in fine.
Have you removed the flywheel housing to block unit and renewed the large gasket there?
 
tottot said:
Hi Simon, A touch of RTV silicon around the outer edge of the OEM Dowty seal where it contacts the flywheel housing is ok.
Be sure none gets on the crank seal itself which must remain dry. [ seal has Teflon in it ]
The last one I did was reluctant to go in the housing so it went in the freezer for a while and then pressed in fine.
Have you removed the flywheel housing to block unit and renewed the large gasket there?
Click to expand...
Flywheel housing, is that the paper gasket? if so then no we didn't but i have some of them so ill look at that too. Thanks
Simon
 
The correct flywheel housing gasket has pre applied sealant strips on it. If yours does not have them get the correct one or put RTV sealant on, pics of gaskets with sealant strips can be found online so you can see where.
My preferred method is to fit seal into housing off the block, fit replacement gasket to block and then fit the housing using the plastic guide that comes with Dowty seal so it seats correctly on the crank. Be sure crank land is clean and dry.
Cheers, John.
 
I don’t think the series 5mb has a gasket are you thinking of the 200tdi which does

I think that’s what the dowty seal instructions say , seal protected and the 2 dowels align the housing as it goes on
 
In my book the instructions for renewal of rear crank oil seal is the same for Late 10j [ 5mb ] engines, 12j 19j, and 200tdi units. But Steve above could be correct as most instructions do not include the removal of flywheel housing and renewing its gasket. I have done 3mb types and the later 19j 200 type so a bit unsure about the 5mb.
 
Last edited:
Morning, the only thing i see in the engineering drawings actually is a large "O" ring between the flywheel housing and the block "ERC6432" for the 5MB, can anyone confirm this, my leak is definitely not between the housing and the block but from the oil seal and coming out of the wading plug hole.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Freelander 1 Fitting new crankshaft rear oil seal and oil sump gasket to L series
Replies
1
Views
506
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
S
Timing cover oil seal replacement
Replies
2
Views
693
sprie
S
P
300 TDI oil leak
2
Replies
34
Views
619
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
htr
Freelander 1 K-series 1.8 Fly wheel
Replies
11
Views
870
htr
htr
S
Removing oil seal on engine front cover
Replies
2
Views
600
steve2286w
steve2286w