Trumar
Active Member
Thank you much appreciated
Trumar
Active Member
Afternoon sir, I have got the 3 top hats and the cross member supports to put on the rear tub floor, do I put the top hats onto the floor first before I put floor back onto the tub? I have got the countersunk rivets from YRM. I just got to get the nuts and bolts for the cross members. I’m also hoping to order the new chassis in next month or two. I only realised I need to get an engine hoist lol don’t the money keep going up lol. Really appreciate all your help I would be totally lost without Landyzone!!
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Nice tutorial here from yrm
I bonded mine originally to a new floor while off the vehicle , gives you better access to both sides
I bonded mine originally to a new floor while off the vehicle , gives you better access to both sides
Trumar
Active Member
I have tried finding the floor you said about but no joy. Apologies first time I have had time to answer you.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
Aluminium Full Size Sheet
Aluminium Full Size Sheet. From £33.48. Wide Range of Sizes. Grades 5251, 1050, 6082 in stock now. Plastic film options. Bulk discounts up to 30%. Rated Excellent Trustpilot. Buy Now.
www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk
spec 5251 is the birmabright equivalent
you might have a local supplier who can cut it but heres an online one who cut it to your requirements
Trumar
Active Member
Nice one for this. I wish I had the room to work on my truck but I have only a single garage. I have seen videos of rear tub removal but not many show replacing the floor.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
not sure if i put a thread on here when i did mine in 2007
but the first think i looked for was the edge that the rectangular floor sits on underneath, and that was rotted away in a few places so i took the decision to buy an oversize piece of ally and fold up the sides 30mm.
the sheet was about £40 and i paid local firm about £20 to do the folds.
removing the flood is just grinding/drilling out rivets from inside tub , cant see a old pic of what it was like but the steel crossmembers caused electrolytic corrosion touching the ally which made a few big holes
i measured the old one accurately and made a cad plan
originally stuck the top hats on with structural araldite this lasted about 10years before i redid it with riveting
but the first think i looked for was the edge that the rectangular floor sits on underneath, and that was rotted away in a few places so i took the decision to buy an oversize piece of ally and fold up the sides 30mm.
the sheet was about £40 and i paid local firm about £20 to do the folds.
removing the flood is just grinding/drilling out rivets from inside tub , cant see a old pic of what it was like but the steel crossmembers caused electrolytic corrosion touching the ally which made a few big holes
i measured the old one accurately and made a cad plan
originally stuck the top hats on with structural araldite this lasted about 10years before i redid it with riveting
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
the little U slots near door was drilled then hacksawed out and filed neat and sealed with some car body sealer
Trumar
Active Member
I’m not sure if the floor is original as I have taken all 3 top hats off and they have all been riveted on, I thought that was the way to go. I haven’t got the knowledge to weld them.
Trumar
Active Member
You done a very nice job that looks so neat underneath the floor. The 3 cross members are they bolted onto the chassis or onto the edge of the tub? I haven’t got any problems with the lip around my tub. What are the U slots for? Where them U slots are I have got the 2 triangle shaped seat belts anchors one was almost rotted away trying to get a single one took me a long time to find. Yeah that link to yrm you sent me tells that i should wrap the ends of the hats and cross in electrical tape! I have coated mine in black under seal was hoping that is just as good or do you think not?
Trumar
Active Member
Haha no worries. Wish I had seen this last year before I purchased the top hats would definitely got this floor. Appreciate you sending this to me.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
On my second go I riveted the cross members to floor and they sit on the chassis top on rubber cushions.
The U slots are to fix the door threshold , 2 pieces one shown in pic the other piece I need to change , prob go to yrm for that
You don’t need to insulate top hats from floor as both ally but insulate the steel cross members from top hats , paint / under seal/ tape anything robust enough to last years should do
The cross members have holes where you can drill through into floor from below then rivet
