Turboman said:
The best thing about doing up old Land Rovers is that almost all the parts are available, and there is a huge range of aftermarket parts, independent suppliers, people that recondition engines, etc.

Have a look in the Member's Vehicles and Projects area of the forum. There are at least 2 people working on 6 cylinders at the moment, but I think one has decided to fit a different engine. :(
Click to expand...
Thanks i.ll have a look about. Yes do like the parts availability compared to other classics. And the prices are favourable too. Always wanted to work on landrover since i was a kid. But logic and mpg lead me to have classic minis. Very different yet very similar as from the same stable of engineering.
 
grindermods said:
Thanks i.ll have a look about. Yes do like the parts availability compared to other classics. And the prices are favourable too. Always wanted to work on landrover since i was a kid. But logic and mpg lead me to have classic minis. Very different yet very similar as from the same stable of engineering.
Click to expand...
Minis are Ok, but I prefer Morris Minors myself.
 
Turboman said:
Servo test, engine off, pump the brake pedal a few times, then start the engine with your foot on the brake pedal. You will feel the pedal go down if the servo is working. You need the whole system assembled and bled up before doing this.

Original brake servo on mine was a Clayton Dewandre inline unit. I don't think Clayton Dewandre are around now, but you might be able to get a seal kit.

Carb, I think, would originally have been a Solex, although not certain, someone else may remember.

Clutch, the clutch itself may be fine, it could be the hydraulics are shot, or the slave pushrod may have gone through the arm.

If that was mine, I would be looking to restore it as much as possible to original condition. Bodges are OK for testing, but in good original condition one of those is probably worth about 20 grand now, and a fantastic thing to own and drive as well.
Click to expand...
It won't be the clutch fork, it's just about the strongest thing in an SIII!

It could just be the friction plate rusted on the input shaft, or maybe the rusted slave's pushrod has clogged up the bore of itself?

I can't help wondering why it was left with the clutch disengaged!
 
boguing said:
It won't be the clutch fork, it's just about the strongest thing in an SIII!

It could just be the friction plate rusted on the input shaft, or maybe the rusted slave's pushrod has clogged up the bore of itself?

I can't help wondering why it was left with the clutch disengaged!
Click to expand...
It's a Series 2a, but I agree, the clutch forks are pretty good, the 6 cylinder clutch is bigger, with heavier springs, though.

And I wondered if however many years of sitting in a barn might have caused rust to impair the integrity of the fork.
 
boguing said:
It won't be the clutch fork, it's just about the strongest thing in an SIII!

It could just be the friction plate rusted on the input shaft, or maybe the rusted slave's pushrod has clogged up the bore of itself?

I can't help wondering why it was left with the clutch disengaged!
Click to expand...
Think it got left with clutch disengaged...because someone pressed the clutch pedal down and the master was ceased so never went back up.
 
Turboman said:
It's a Series 2a, but I agree, the clutch forks are pretty good, the 6 cylinder clutch is bigger, with heavier springs, though.

And I wondered if however many years of sitting in a barn might have caused rust to impair the integrity of the fork.
Click to expand...
Good to know the fork is strong dont think that will be the problem. Was in a dry dusty barn. So that has kept landy worth doing.
 
boguing said:
It won't be the clutch fork, it's just about the strongest thing in an SIII!

It could just be the friction plate rusted on the input shaft, or maybe the rusted slave's pushrod has clogged up the bore of itself?

I can't help wondering why it was left with the clutch disengaged!
Click to expand...
Friction plate ceased in clutch disengaged position sound likly to me.

Im thinking the easiest way to get to clutch is gearbox out from inside the vehicle?

Thanks all.
 
Good news. So i freed o
grindermods said:
Think it got left with clutch disengaged...because someone pressed the clutch pedal down and the master was ceased so never went
Click to expand...

grindermods said:
Think it got left with clutch disengaged...because someone pressed the clutch pedal down and the master was ceased so never went back up.
Click to expand...
Good news so with the master removed. And the slave freed up the clutch has moved back to enganged position. And with the clutch slave temporary connected to the brake master the clutch is moving in and out as ut should.
So .....maybe...just maybe if it starts i.ll try and drive it round a field to see what gearbox I've got.
Finger crossed. Lots!
 
Its a good day in my lady world.
The 11a starred fine for its sec9nd time after a 20year rest. And drive round a field under her own steam. She got hi and low 4 forward and a reverse! I know it should but as a barn find im wondering why it got parked up. So good news is it wasnt cos the the engine or drive trsin in any way.

I added a pipe between the heater inlet and out today. Instead of blocking the two pipe ends with sml screw drivers. And the small bubbles that made we think head gasket issues have gone away!
 
grindermods said:
Its a good day in my lady world.
The 11a starred fine for its sec9nd time after a 20year rest. And drive round a field under her own steam. She got hi and low 4 forward and a reverse! I know it should but as a barn find im wondering why it got parked up. So good news is it wasnt cos the the engine or drive trsin in any way.

I added a pipe between the heater inlet and out today. Instead of blocking the two pipe ends with sml screw drivers. And the small bubbles that made we think head gasket issues have gone away!
Click to expand...
Good news, but not surprised. I have known petrols start up after longer than that with a new battery and fresh fuel.
Usually most of the rubber components fail shortly after that, though.

They can get parked up for all kinds of reasons. Sometimes just because the owner gets a new motor, parks it up to fix and sell, or restore, later, and just doesn't get round to it.
 
There is a six cylinder LWB "series 2-3" bitzer for sale here in the Adelaide hills, I can pass on a contact for the fella. 6cyl here are not generally sought after as they have a reputation for getting hot and using Far too much fuel for not much better performance. They were replaced very often with the local Holden six - which was a duff move in my opinion as they then lacked the torque of even the Landy 2.25.
 
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