when the tiger seal gets into the bearing and bushing he will be the first to know.
Maybe we need a poll to see when the rebuilt trans takes a ****
when the tiger seal gets into the bearing and bushing he will be the first to know.
Maybe we need a poll to see when the rebuilt trans takes a ****
discomark10
Well-Known Member
when the tiger seal gets into the bearing and bushing he will be the first to know.
Maybe we need a poll to see when the rebuilt trans takes a ****
I think a more favoured poll will be to see how many people want you* permanently muted!
Jesus STFU! :lalala:
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Dr_evil
Banned
I've been using tiger seal on various things for ages such as an oily inter cooler and not had a problem......considering the only silicone is on the outside as I cleaned the inside of the box once it was applied I refer you to my previous comment.
And to add to that if you don't like the build you can fcuk off and stop reading it just to try and criticize seeing as from the looks of things that's about all you do with your day.....
And to add to that if you don't like the build you can fcuk off and stop reading it just to try and criticize seeing as from the looks of things that's about all you do with your day.....
Just asking a question is all. Manufacture say's wont work, not criticizing in the least.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Used tiger seal on a sump before and never had a problem
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
maybe not but ,why cant you use proper rtc silicone sealant ,its cheap enough in cartridge form
Dr_evil
Banned
Decided just to use what I had really but as I'm out of tiger seal now I'll pick up a tube of wynns also pm inbound!
Need a part number haha
Used tiger seal on a sump before and never had a problem
i think the problem is when you need to remove the sump again
it can be a bit tricky to clean it off to stick a new gasket on.
but it can be done, so not a hugely big deal imo since it seems to be oil resistant.
move onto the next job and fix if you ever need to
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aaronmorris
Head's a shed
i think the problem is when you need to remove the sump again
it can be a bit tricky to clean it off to stick a new gasket on.
but it can be done, so not a hugely big deal imo since it seems to be oil resistant.
move onto the next job and fix if you ever need to
Yes removing it can be tricky
. Lets just hope Doc doesn't need his gearbox apart any time soon 
DiscoPol
Well-Known Member
Yes removing it can be tricky
What the doc having to do something more than once, never!!!! It's not like he has form for that sort of thing is it.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Rtv is best even LR changed to it because of the leaks they experienced even with propper with gaskets. Just don't use it anywhere near petrol!!! Loool!
Dr_evil
Banned
Conversion ring on, flywheel bolts loctited and torqued up right.........went to fit clutch and lo and behold I've got the wrong bloody bolts turns out they're UNC not UNF
Whoever tapped the flywheel is a bastard.....old ones that came out were UNF so I bought a smaller set of them in 5/16th but he's tapped them at 5/16th UNC instead of UNF like the old ones
turns out they're UNC not UNF Whoever tapped the flywheel is a bastard.....old ones that came out were UNF so I bought a smaller set of them in 5/16th but he's tapped them at 5/16th UNC instead of UNF like the old ones
Dr_evil
Banned
In a moment of madness last night at the pub with my mate who sold me the engine.........
It might be ending up in the series :doh: had the series about 90% complete too taking spare bellhousing over to his to see how much of an adaptor plate we'll have to make up (shouldn't me far off as the block dimensions are very similar!)
The Caddy block is actually 25" wide at the top and 22" in the centre as well as being about 30 ish inches long (from his memory)
Rover V8 is 33" long and 30 wide at the top according to the spec sheet I found.......
If this will fit in we'll be mating up the box and block on the ground then dumping it in as a unit in a few weekends then all I need to do is put the body back on and send the bastard off for its MOT
It might be ending up in the series :doh: had the series about 90% complete too
taking spare bellhousing over to his to see how much of an adaptor plate we'll have to make up (shouldn't me far off as the block dimensions are very similar!)The Caddy block is actually 25" wide at the top and 22" in the centre as well as being about 30 ish inches long (from his memory)
Rover V8 is 33" long and 30 wide at the top according to the spec sheet I found.......
If this will fit in we'll be mating up the box and block on the ground then dumping it in as a unit in a few weekends then all I need to do is put the body back on and send the bastard off for its MOT
discomark10
Well-Known Member
pure nutter
Dr_evil
Banned
one day this motor might be driven before the next evolution
It still needs to be ready for feb!
We're doing this in 48 hours next week if it'll work! Pull a few all nighters in the workshop making the adaptors up if needed
I've sorted everything on the bastard so its all ready to go once the gearbox goes back in and in all honesty if this fits in its even less work for me waterproofing the ECU and other parts
as its running carb and a low pressure fuel pump which doesn't need flapper feed etc
Dr_evil
Banned
You'll love it in feb!
Either that or I'll be in the disco running a straight pipe and using this as an alarm clock to get you lot out of bed for the trip!
