Grimshaw

Grimshaw

Member
Hi.

At the tender age of 25, I have recently bought my first Land Rover, a 1980 88" Series III, and have a few questions. These may be really silly questions but as an enthusiastic beginner, I would appreciate your collective help.

- I have several Haynes manuals which tell you where to place axle stands but they do not say where the best point to jack from is. Any advice?
- It jumps out of 2nd gear on overrun. I suspect a syncro-mesh problem, is this correct? If it is syncro-mesh, I assume it's easier to live with this than try to solve it?
- It kangaroo-hops in reverse - any suggestions on reasons and solutions?
- Lastly, the manuals say that I should use hypoid gear oil SAE 90EP, API GL4 for the gear box, over-drive and diffs. The closest thing that Halfords had is SAE 80W/90, API GL5 - this is sufficient?

Thanks very much,

Rob
​
 
oil will be allright but you can still get ep90,remove rear pto cover off gear box and top retangle plate just in front check rear m/shaft nuts tight they come loose which allows too much free play in 2nd worth a try jack under spring plate to remove wheels,rev idler or layshaft teeth breaking up
 
HI there, right the 2nd gear is not a failiure on mot (if you have one.) i myself would say to check the 4wheel drive selector and it's linkage and others may say what the fxxk but that was a problem on mine, also the levels check again i was advised and last check all the box linkage's.

i myself for jacking used a block of hard wood then jacked by the leaf spring ubolt mont point's or again wood then the jack on the diff, front and rear,

the reverse well they always do that on the 36 i've had so get used to it LOL, but it depends on the play in the prop or when it was last greased, the uj's even clutch fluid, or shove a rr diff set on and that should solve it (coutgh LOL)

according to my passport to service book for the 2A-3 just use the land rover stuff exspensive but my god it helps but to be honnest i've never had to change it but on one land rover so your best of getting advice from the others, to even clarify on these points as we all live with them but deal in another sence,

i hope this helps and if i can be of more to you then feel free to contact me,
good luck
 
- Axle plate is fine for jack stand, but really most anywhere on the axle tube is fine. Just not on the swivel balls.
- In addition to the mainshaft nut, a weak detent spring on the selector shaft can contribute to it also. Though from your description I'd look at the mainshaft nut first.
- When GL5 first came out it had shock load additives that would attack brass and bronze and so was bad for the gearboxes. The story goes that the newer additives used in GL5 don't do that anymore. I hope that's the case as GL4 is hard to find here in the States.
 
Support the chassis or axles depending on the work you're doing.
Ignore the Haynes manual (unless you've got the early, thick one) and download this:-
pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com
I'm a bit wary of ep90 GL5 - some of it should be ok for gearboxes, but......
When my gearbox started jumping out of second on the overrun it locked solid a few months after! I hope you have better luck.....
 
Series 3 Sweet 16,

My Landy is fitted with free-wheeling hubs and the 4WD appears to work fine in both high and low range, so hopefully it's the mainshaft nut that needs tightening (preferred option!).
Thanks, though, I will keep an eye out. I do make sure I turn off the FWHs and run it in 4x4 occasionally to keep everything lubricated and turning.

Thanks, Rob
 
well if you need anything let me know ok and that goes for advice, good luck and send some pics on the forum of the new toy, just blank the number plate, as i do though,
 
yep, i agree with =Jon= or why not try EP80-90 that works a treat,

seriously mate stick with any questions you have and we will awnser them for you, thats what we are about, and it's great to have another land rover spirit out there and dont modify the what'sit out of it and please post some pics to here or the gallery,
 
series 3 sweet 16 said:
no get the 4 tonn trolly jack's as if they ever develop a leak in the ram you will stay up longer than what a 2 tonn,
Click to expand...

if your jack develops a leak dont use it, who cares if it can stay up a little longer its still not gonna stop a 2ton vehicle coming down on you :doh:
 
Axle stands, please, gentlemen. Jacks should never be relied on to support vehicles!
 
You should always test a leaking jack by putting you head under the wheel while it drops.
Get someone to jump up and down on the body work above the jack at the same time.
And never use wheel chocks, they're for pussies.


:frusty:
 
Tobi said:
You should always test a leaking jack by putting you head under the wheel while it drops.
Get someone to jump up and down on the body work above the jack at the same time.
And never use wheel chocks, they're for pussies.


:frusty:
Click to expand...

nice to see a new member with a decent sense of humour :D
 
ok look you can use a 10 tonn jack as that will not even drop the truck, also it's the wife that should do that head test matey was on about (****IN DO YOUR HEAD IN!!!). any way what was we to talk about seems we always get distracted?
 
series 3 sweet 16 said:
ok look you can use a 10 tonn jack as that will not even drop the truck, also it's the wife that should do that head test matey was on about (****IN DO YOUR HEAD IN!!!). any way what was we to talk about seems we always get distracted?
Click to expand...

quote button helps so we know who your replying to and i have no idea what your talking about, i try rereading your posts a couple of times but you rarely make any sense :p
 
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