Hello chaps, 8 years after selling my 110 crew cab and driving Jap and German vans it’s time for me to buy another Land Rover. The prices have gone up it seems! So with my budget of about £7000 I’ve seen a few Series 3s and a couple of NA Defenders. This is only going to be a hobby car for me. I’ve driven both and know how slow they can be, but which is best to work on as a rolling project, and also are parts becoming harder to source now? I’ve been out of the loop for a while!!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Series every time for me. Other opinions may be available.
Series for character.
90/110 for slightly better "comfort", given coil springs.
If low mileage, and mainly short distance, then I'd prefer character over the comfort ...
Need to know more about intended use really - I personally favour the 88's or the 90's ( which are actually 93" - but that's LR all over
) .... plus, condition is everything, and I do mean everything .
90/110 for slightly better "comfort", given coil springs.
If low mileage, and mainly short distance, then I'd prefer character over the comfort ...
Need to know more about intended use really - I personally favour the 88's or the 90's ( which are actually 93" - but that's LR all over
) .... plus, condition is everything, and I do mean everything .Series - much easier and cheaper to keep on the road. Go for a historic - there's a whole bundle of emissions and tax stuff in the pipeline and you need to be out of that. Don't assume the rolling 40 years cut off will keep rolling. My S2a is a camper - about 3k miles a year (before lockdown). Tax free, MOT free and £150 fully comp. Don't knock "slow" (I know you aren't) - everything lasts a lot longer at 50 mph.
wireman
Well-Known Member
I agree with @rob1miles a series is cheaper to run if it is MOT and Tax exempt and perfectly useable if you only go 'local'. I have a 2a lightweight, I love driving it around but the furthest I take it is 7 miles to the LPG station. Whereas my 2.5 n/a 90 whilst 'slow' by modern standards, I am quite happy taking it up the motorway (at a steady 60/65) if I have to. As @Disco1BFG says it depend on what you intend to use it for. Its all down to what you prefer driving.
You must be able to get a half decent tdi for 7k?
But as its going to be a toy the previous comments about getting a historic one are spot on, then if you dont use it who cares? it costs nowt to sit there.
Pretty much every part is available.
Trim is getitng harder to get, decent series 3 dash tops must be real thin on the ground?
Some of the silly stuff is NLA, genuine floor mats/carpet sets/rubber sound deadening, that kind of thing.
But as its going to be a toy the previous comments about getting a historic one are spot on, then if you dont use it who cares? it costs nowt to sit there.
Pretty much every part is available.
Trim is getitng harder to get, decent series 3 dash tops must be real thin on the ground?
Some of the silly stuff is NLA, genuine floor mats/carpet sets/rubber sound deadening, that kind of thing.
Indeed. But ...... Britanica Restorations on the tube did a good video on reconditioning them - pretty stunning results using, of all things, builders foam
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Series. If you get a series 3, go for one with the 5mb engine. I didn't but wish I did.
Col
Col
Going back to the original question. I use my S2A regularly and because its a camper we do up to 100 miles at one go without problems. 200 is a bit much but that's because of the concentration required, its a very "hands on" drive.
From my limited experience of Defenders I would say the early ones (90/110) are not much more civilised than the Series. The big differences are full time 4WD/centre diff/CV joints, disks and coils. If you need those you need a Defender, if you are happy (or like) the leaf springs and 2WD plus the simplicity then go for a Series.
I prefer the series because it is so simple and easy to keep going. Its very reliable so long as its serviced and being totally mechanical there are no "fault codes" to deal with. The drum brakes work really well once set up and a good covering of flashband and carpet has cut the noise a lot.
Prices of early Defender/90/110 and Series are strong and the gamble is on how the market will go. Will people continue to want Series or will they prefer the "comfort" of the 90/110.
For me the historic status is the deal maker - free tax, exemption for ULEZ and other emissions zones yet to come is a big deal.
The question you have not asked is ex-mil or civvy? This is as important and ex-mil gets you into quite few events and is part of a community in itself. Certainly for a Series the ex-mil is on a tougher higher chassis.
From my limited experience of Defenders I would say the early ones (90/110) are not much more civilised than the Series. The big differences are full time 4WD/centre diff/CV joints, disks and coils. If you need those you need a Defender, if you are happy (or like) the leaf springs and 2WD plus the simplicity then go for a Series.
I prefer the series because it is so simple and easy to keep going. Its very reliable so long as its serviced and being totally mechanical there are no "fault codes" to deal with. The drum brakes work really well once set up and a good covering of flashband and carpet has cut the noise a lot.
Prices of early Defender/90/110 and Series are strong and the gamble is on how the market will go. Will people continue to want Series or will they prefer the "comfort" of the 90/110.
For me the historic status is the deal maker - free tax, exemption for ULEZ and other emissions zones yet to come is a big deal.
The question you have not asked is ex-mil or civvy? This is as important and ex-mil gets you into quite few events and is part of a community in itself. Certainly for a Series the ex-mil is on a tougher higher chassis.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
If you buy a series and plan to use it in the winter, budget for a fuel burning heater cos it's like driving a fridge.
Col
Col
Turboman
Mab An Gov
And the interior light usually works in a fridge.You dont get the ice cold drafts in a fridge
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Actually, the interior light works in my landy, it's the headlights and indicators I have problems with.
Col
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
I had to drive a series in the Snow once, and because the windows kept fogging up the cowl vents had to be open to keep the screen clear.....
You can imagine i've never been colder, 'twas fun though going down a dual carriageway at 55 with freezing cold air and snow flying in.
Mind you 55 was the limit, drove from Southampton to Bideford!
I'd have a series over a defender..
But thats me!
You can imagine i've never been colder, 'twas fun though going down a dual carriageway at 55 with freezing cold air and snow flying in.
Mind you 55 was the limit, drove from Southampton to Bideford!
I'd have a series over a defender..
But thats me!
I had to drive a series in the Snow once, and because the windows kept fogging up the cowl vents had to be open to keep the screen clear.....
You can imagine i've never been colder, 'twas fun though going down a dual carriageway at 55 with freezing cold air and snow flying in.
Mind you 55 was the limit, drove from Southampton to Bideford!
I'd have a series over a defender..
But thats me!
Heated screen, one of the best series mods ever.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
I had a Hard top Series 3 about 20 years ago, I was only 28 and all my mates thought I was mad! The lack of speed, the leaks, the draughts and noise don’t bother me at all. It will be general purpose ie. taking the dog out, going to the tip etc. Looks are unimportant, but here’s the thing I’d like it to be reliable enough to get me to the beach in the summer (60) miles there and back! I plan to fit a canvas top
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Are you thinking about the extended ULEZ?
You aren't in it, but if you need, or intend, to go in it, any Defender will cost you £12.50 a day from October.
LEZ, Defenders are OK if they are Station Wagons, windows and seats in the back as standard, no good if it says "Light Utility 4x4" on the V5.
