Running out of pump adjustment is a common prob if the valve timing is incorecty set...if you have only worked on the pump drive gear you have not touched the valve timing...although you say you fitted a new timing chain...how did you keep the timing set when you did this...
Its meant to be done with the aid of dial gauges on the number 1 valve...with out l;ooking at the book I cant remember if its exh or inlet...its quite a tricky job as there engines have no timing marks bar the ones on the flywheel...even they can be confusing.
My mate has the complete 3 point plough.
You maybe better starting from scratch with the pump/valve timing.
My 200 is fitted as a 200DI...I took the turbo off...bags of power and more economical than the turbo version.
And its kind to my std S3 gearbox.
Nick.
Its meant to be done with the aid of dial gauges on the number 1 valve...with out l;ooking at the book I cant remember if its exh or inlet...its quite a tricky job as there engines have no timing marks bar the ones on the flywheel...even they can be confusing.
My mate has the complete 3 point plough.
You maybe better starting from scratch with the pump/valve timing.
My 200 is fitted as a 200DI...I took the turbo off...bags of power and more economical than the turbo version.
And its kind to my std S3 gearbox.
Nick.
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
Get the injection pump itself checked or refurbished. As others have said a previous owner has probably cranked the fuel up to try and get more power and now u are living with the consequences. I reckon even my ex-military na had the max fuel screw fiddled with when I first got it.
Hi Nick, I followed the green book and used a dual gauge on number one valve. I am sure I set that correctly. I am still concerned about not setting the gear under the pump. I think I will try that next. There is little information on setting this without using that special gauge .
I will try and let you know. I am also interested in the comments about the pump over fuelling. I can't see any information about which screw adjusts this so may have to take it to an agent.
Best wishes
Bob
Turboman
Mab An Gov
There is a reason for that. And it is that injection pumps are not suited to amateur interference.
I have been working on diesels for 35 years, and I never touch injection pumps, except for minor repairs. I just take it to the agent, they know what to do, and have a test machine to test their work.
Stretch
Well-Known Member
Completely agree - with out the test facilities (and for many pumps the factory specifications that are often very difficult to obtain) messing about with injection pumps is not a smart move. Removing, refitting and timing them for many people is a big enough challenge.
There is no special tool or gauge for setting the drive gear/cog that drive the pump...jus a matter of eyeing the angle up correctly from what I remember.
If it out you will know about it...you will have never seen a truck/car on the road belching out smoke like a land-rover engine will if this is out a tooth....so if its just a bit of smoke look elsewhere.
There is a little grub screw holding it in place.
Nick.
If it out you will know about it...you will have never seen a truck/car on the road belching out smoke like a land-rover engine will if this is out a tooth....so if its just a bit of smoke look elsewhere.
There is a little grub screw holding it in place.
Nick.
Dear all, I am back.....a few family issues have taken me away from my series 3 SWB 2.25 diesel.
To recap, I have a smoke issue...lots of grey smoke when I put my foot down. I have fitted a new tank, a new fuel pump, new injectors, new timing chain and reset the timing as per the green book. I have had the injector pump tested with the injectors and all ok. I have just had the compression tested and all cylinder over 400 psi. So I am now back to the fuel pump timing.....I did try the pump in every possible position with now success but I am going to try again. The only thing I have not been able to test is the position of the vertical drive gear that drives the pump and if it is at 20 degrees.....I don't have the special gauge. Does anyone have other things I can try?
To recap, I have a smoke issue...lots of grey smoke when I put my foot down. I have fitted a new tank, a new fuel pump, new injectors, new timing chain and reset the timing as per the green book. I have had the injector pump tested with the injectors and all ok. I have just had the compression tested and all cylinder over 400 psi. So I am now back to the fuel pump timing.....I did try the pump in every possible position with now success but I am going to try again. The only thing I have not been able to test is the position of the vertical drive gear that drives the pump and if it is at 20 degrees.....I don't have the special gauge. Does anyone have other things I can try?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
whether its at 20 degrees or near that depends on accuracy of cam timing, and thats the only way you can adjust that
Sounds very much like your retarded...no offence...but setting the timing re the book just gets you to a good start point ready to fine tune.
Quite a few variables on a Landrover you dont know the history off...ie has it the std flywheel with the correct timing mark on its flange...is it the correct pump for the engine.
Are you out of adjustment on the pump to take it further advanced...its a bodge but can get you out of a hole...elongate the slots in the pump to get move adjustment...you should not have to if everything is set correct but looks like it may not be for a number of reasons as in above.
Nick.
Quite a few variables on a Landrover you dont know the history off...ie has it the std flywheel with the correct timing mark on its flange...is it the correct pump for the engine.
Are you out of adjustment on the pump to take it further advanced...its a bodge but can get you out of a hole...elongate the slots in the pump to get move adjustment...you should not have to if everything is set correct but looks like it may not be for a number of reasons as in above.
Nick.
Great reply Nick. I am convinced I have the correct pump but the flywheel could be an issue as I can't see the 13 or 16 degree marks. I have run out of slot on the pump but I was reluctant to open them up, I was hoping to find the correct setting to avoid this. Everything I read says its retarded so I turn the pump as far clockwise as I can but I still have grey smoke. How do I know I am turning in the right direction, how do I know when I am getting close?? I would appreciate your comments.
Best wishes
Bob
Best wishes
Bob
Have you got any adjustment left to go opposite the arrow...cant remember is its counter clock or clockwise.
If you have just turn the pump a mm at a time...with all the injector pipes loose.
No need to bleed only have air in the injector pipe...it with self purge as you crank.
If you have just turn the pump a mm at a time...with all the injector pipes loose.
No need to bleed only have air in the injector pipe...it with self purge as you crank.
For some reason nobody sets the pump timing using the timing marks, it is after all why there there , when a later cav pump is set up in the shop the timing is also set , if you remove the small window on the side of the pump you will see that at TDC a timing mark lines up with the edge of a cerclip . On the early pump you had a special tool to set a pointer but on yours its all in the pump
