ok to start, a series 3 is not a 90 or ninety, they came later.
i might be out of date but last i heard (long time ago) you needed to replace the axles to get disc brakes.
i would also say, if you have a functioning servo with well maintained/serviced brakes, the effort shouldnt be excessive.
i dont know how it would affect your insurance, worth checking before you start anything
i might be out of date but last i heard (long time ago) you needed to replace the axles to get disc brakes.
i would also say, if you have a functioning servo with well maintained/serviced brakes, the effort shouldnt be excessive.
i dont know how it would affect your insurance, worth checking before you start anything
Rangieman123
Active Member
I fitted front disks to my Series 2 last year using the kit from Design and Development.
I have a remote servo which I will fit over the winter as disk brakes don't have any self servo effect and the pedal now needs more of a shove. The other disk kits on the market were more expensive and most of them require a full strip down of the swivel housings which I wanted to avoid. Apart from some machining work to the rear face of the hubs it's a bolt on kit, using factory Defender disks and calipers.
The biggest problem is that this kit won't allow the use of OE Series or Defender standard wheels as they don't have the internal space to fit the calipers. I will be fitting Wolf wheels soon, but for the moment I have fitted 30mm wheel spacers which work fine.
With hindsight I should have spent time researching alternative calipers to clear the wheels. The 110 long pad calipers used are overkill in my opinion.
I made some small brake line extensions from the hub to caliper so that I could keep OE flexi lines.
I have a remote servo which I will fit over the winter as disk brakes don't have any self servo effect and the pedal now needs more of a shove. The other disk kits on the market were more expensive and most of them require a full strip down of the swivel housings which I wanted to avoid. Apart from some machining work to the rear face of the hubs it's a bolt on kit, using factory Defender disks and calipers.
The biggest problem is that this kit won't allow the use of OE Series or Defender standard wheels as they don't have the internal space to fit the calipers. I will be fitting Wolf wheels soon, but for the moment I have fitted 30mm wheel spacers which work fine.
With hindsight I should have spent time researching alternative calipers to clear the wheels. The 110 long pad calipers used are overkill in my opinion.
I made some small brake line extensions from the hub to caliper so that I could keep OE flexi lines.
Attachments
Last edited:
I think the pedal effort would be about the same but calipers are more efficient and consistent in their ability
I think the big advantage of discs is going to be fade resistance when stopping from high speeds or repeatedly braking hard with a heavy load.
Might not actually be worthwhile for a lot of series owners considering the lowly level of performance.
The late series three set up with a good servo and TLS front drums should be good enough for most
Might not actually be worthwhile for a lot of series owners considering the lowly level of performance.
The late series three set up with a good servo and TLS front drums should be good enough for most
Does @OldGinger have a servo?
dag019
Well-Known Member
These are the two key statements on this thread rather than the debate about discs vs drums. it is the servo that changes the amount of pedal pressure required. My series 3 does not have a functioning servo anymore (it is fitted with one) and the amount of pressure required is huge, however even when it was functioning properly it was still more than my 110 as the defender (done deliberately to upset @kermit_rr
) servo is much larger than the series one.
Rangieman123
Active Member
The Defender servo is way more effective than the original 6 inch Series type. They also have a smaller diameter bore than a single circuit LWB Series master cylinder so in effect, you can have a far higher brake line pressure and more control on light braking in a Defender. All this with a lighter effort on the brake pedal.
109SeriesIIA
Member
I've done this with the Heystee kit front and rear. You'd want the Servo off a Deb*nd*r, and a Wilwood prop.valve. Discs will not pull-up with the stock S3 servo. Brakes will be worse. That is why the servo gets bigger on LRs fitted with discs.
It's not about fade etc, unless you live in the Alps or run down Porlock Hill daily? The big advantage is progressive consistent modern-feel brakes, such that - do the miles - and they don't pull or need constant adjustment. They stay 'right'. Don't go'squirrelly' And because they're light, rather than stamp-ON and get ON or OFF, you can feather, have real control. Like modern cars.
The cheaper kits won't allow stock rims, which forces rim-choices which some might say, have your leafer look like it been parked on a sink-estate since the 90s. Done right, gets pricey quickly.
Pointless for showground miles, if you 'drive' and don't just August fake it , hence are found on a wet road in February.... discs are worth every penny.
It's not about fade etc, unless you live in the Alps or run down Porlock Hill daily? The big advantage is progressive consistent modern-feel brakes, such that - do the miles - and they don't pull or need constant adjustment. They stay 'right'. Don't go'squirrelly' And because they're light, rather than stamp-ON and get ON or OFF, you can feather, have real control. Like modern cars.
The cheaper kits won't allow stock rims, which forces rim-choices which some might say, have your leafer look like it been parked on a sink-estate since the 90s. Done right, gets pricey quickly.
Pointless for showground miles, if you 'drive' and don't just August fake it , hence are found on a wet road in February.... discs are worth every penny.
Last edited:
