TS2304

Active Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #21

steve2286w said:

If it’s diesel check the butterfly valve in inlet manifold is closed at idle and hand throttle fully off , this can affect servo performance through reduced vacuum

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sorry - should have said - mine's the 2 1/4l petrol.

 

TS2304

Active Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #22

Colthebrummie said:

If the pedal feels a bit spongy, there is probably some air still in the system. Getting the last bit out is a pain. Try using a length of wood to hold the pedal hard down, wedge the wood under the steering wheel and leave it overnight. That can often force the air out.

Col

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presumably with one (or more?) of the bleed nipples open? The one furthest from the reservoir?

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #23

If you leave the bleed nipple open you will loose all your fluid.

 

C

Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #24

No, all bleed nipples should be closed. With constant pressure on the brake peddle, e.g. Overnight, the pressure in the system can often force any remaining air back into the reservoir. Doesn't always work but I've had good results with doing it.

Col

 

R

rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #25

Easybleed from toolstation, under £20.

 

wireman

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #26

As yours is a 109 it should have twin leading shoes, these are notorious for not bleeding well. I had an ex mod 109 once and I tried all things to bleed the system, in the end I swapped the position of the bleed nipple from the bottom wheel cylinder to the top ( I had to make 2 new pipes to re route the system) When I bled them, got a great pedal straight away.
See here for more bleeding tips:
https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/correct-way-to-bleed-brakes.22143/
And here:
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/75617-11-front-brake-bleeding-improvements/

 

T

Tall Ratbag

Active Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #27

wireman said:

I had an ex mod 109 once and I tried all things to bleed the system, ......

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I struggled with my 109 too. To get the standard brakes to bleed, I took both front drums off, backed the adjusters fully OFF, and then tied ratchet straps round the shoes pulling them tightly in, fully pushing the wheel cylinder pistons back into their bores. Then a couple of pumps of the pedal saw lots of air come out, and when I put the drums back on and adjusted the shoes, I got a good pedal.

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #28

I use one of these connect up crack open nipple , one way valve init no mess and cheap too

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Jan 11, 2019

• #29

I have twin leading shoes On mine and replaced all bits with new earlier this year bled normally and once bedded in the front brakes are getting better all the time front end now dips when I brake!

 

TS2304

Active Member

• Jan 12, 2019

• #30

Thanks gents for all the responses - will let the brakes settle after last bit of adjustments and then if need be follow advice for improved bleeding. Much obliged to you all!

 

northern scot

Member

• Oct 11, 2019

• #31

the 6,25 inch is for early ones , haynes manual can be misleading ,

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Oct 12, 2019

• #32

Nail a block of wood on the low pedal.

@Nig has to do this on his effeminate discovery so his little legs can reach.