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JrEngineer

New Member
Hi I'm new to the site. I'm 15 and after many months of badgering my Dad I managed to persuade him to ditch the summer holiday in favour of buying a 2a which i could restore. After filling his inbox with links to numerous barn finds he finally fell for a 1969 2a with a 2.8 daihatsu diesel conversion. She's in pretty good shape and not so far gone to be too much of a challenge for me.

I've had it for a couple of weeks. Borrowed all my Mum's freezer bags to label nuts as they came off and nicked my Dad's labelling machine (now covered in oil) to label the electrics.

I'm now down to the chasis and after trawling the forums I've got a quote for £110 from Wedge in Southampton Wessex Galvanizers Ltd Hampshire- Wedge Galvanizing. Is this the right thing to do?

This'll be the first of numerous stupid questions I'll have, so appreciate your patience. I'll try and load some photos but finding it tricky with my rubbish broadband connection.:mad:
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Err To add to this thread do I just reply? Also if i just reply there is no function to insert pics unless I have a url for them - which i dont.
 
JrEngineer said:
Err To add to this thread do I just reply? Also if i just reply there is no function to insert pics unless I have a url for them - which i dont.
Click to expand...


I usually add photo's to photobucket and use the URL from there. Alternatively Tapatalk forum app is useful.

There are mixed feelings / thoughts about galvanising a used chassis. Technically, the acid 'pickling' should remove old rust but..... My view is that if you prep the outside of the chassis the best you can by removing as much rust as possible, and you have the money, then go for it. Afterall, that's what Ashtree do when they refurb their bulkheads and I've not read of any complaints where they're rusting out!
 
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Save your money and spent it on Waxoyl/Dinitrol and paint for the outside of it ....

Chassis rust more from the inside than out and I've seen "good" repaired chassis bleed rust from repairs 6 months after galvanizing .
The dipping pre galv will remove "some" rust but not the rust/crud/mud deep inside the chassis .

IMHO it's not worth the expense UNLESS it was a brand new unused dry stored chassis .
 
Ok thanks ill do that and with the money that I save should I buy a new wiring loom because the one that is installed currently is in very bad condition many wires are corroded and some have been burnt through
 
I have set up a poll in a different thread (Series 2a restoration - colour) please cast a vote on what colour you think is best
Thanks
 
I like that sandy yellow coulor , sorry don't know name.
I've just finished my 90 rebuild at Christmas and looking for a new home project and thinking a series. I decided to keep mine portofino red and that had attracted a lot of good reactions from people
 
I have finally taken the engine out. Just the axels to go. Is there anything I should do to the engine while it is accessible?, should I replace the clutch? and should I paint the engine?
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Upto to you on the clutch really, does it look worn? Can you be bothered to fit a new one if this one fails shortly after.
Personally mine had loads of life left and was a valeo clutch.
And even if it did let go anytime soon I'm more than prepared to put in a new one.
If I was advising a non mechanical sort of person I'd say fit new.
Hope this helps
 
Thanks I'll take a look to see if I can see any wear, but not quite sure it I'll be able to tell. Hopefully it'll be obvious if it is worn?
 
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JrEngineer said:
Thanks I'll take a look to see if I can see any wear, but not quite sure it I'll be able to tell. Hopefully it'll be obvious if it is worn?
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You cant paint the engine ... land rover people dont like that sort of thing:D

I did though;)
 

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Got down to the bare bones of the chassis today. Took all of the dampers off. I'm used to motorcycle shocks and assumed all the dampers would return to their original position if compressed. But there's no spring in any of mine - is it possible they can all be knackered? If you tell me they are what should I replace them with?

Also, discovered disturbing rust in the rear crossmember. It looks like it has been patched before. I can try and patch it again, but on the basis of the photos, should I fit a new cross member - which I'll need help with? Many thanks for your advice.:)
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JrEngineer said:
Took all of the dampers off. I'm used to motorcycle shocks and assumed all the dampers would return to their original position if compressed. But there's no spring in any of mine - is it possible they can all be knackered? ...
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From your description the motorcycle shocks were all gas pressurised.
Standard Series dampers are not, so when off the vehicle they stay in whatever position you left them.
Standard Series dampers tend to feel soft on compression, but a lot stiffer when you try to extend them. This is to match the friction damping characteristics of the standard multi-leaf springs.

Yes it is possible they can all be knackered, but store them upright for 24 hours, then exercise them by hand a few times. If there is no significant free movement, and no oil leaking, I wouldn't spend money on new ones.
Re-assess after the vehicle is being driven around.

As an associated part of your overhaul, either strip, de-rust, lubricate* and re-assemble all the leaf springs, OR, as you have the time, make up some sort of shallow bath, or pipe, that can hold each spring, then leave each spring immersed in oil for 24 / 48 hours.
You will be changing the spring bushes anyway, do this after the springs have been soaked (and left to drip the excess off :)).
Basically it is ESSENTIAL the leaf springs are lubricated if you are to get a decent ride. Even if it starts out as 'lubricated rust', the particles that jam the springs when dry will be worked out when lubricated, leaving you with free moving springs. They will improve as the vehicle is driven.

* If you are lubricating before re-assembly, the current favourite grease is the 'one-shot' grease now sold for swivels. It contains a high level of Molybdenum disulphide, reckoned to be very good for sliding metal to metal surfaces.

HTH
 
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