rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
I will find out where we got it from!
Sirus
Your all Banned except me
Bertbuckie
New Member
galvy chassis for £550????? I was looking at a grand TBH where do yo find them for that? Also, we got a few bits with it, not a lot but why genuine? engine and box LOOK spot on but time will tell. The bulkhead looks repairable with a bit of work ( very good mates with a pro welder 
), as for sirius.... lol tealeaf tow-away go find me a new galvy chassis and tow it to north east Scotland AKA Gods Country
), as for sirius.... lol tealeaf tow-away go find me a new galvy chassis and tow it to north east Scotland AKA Gods Country
Bertbuckie
New Member
sorry replies are super slow.... GPRS SUCKS!!!!!
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
Just checked with my stepdad. Bought it close to 5 years ago now (how time flies, crikey!) and wasn't far off the price I said - he says it was on special offer so he snapped it up with both hands at about £600. It is a Marshland chassis purchased through Paddocks (it actually came delivered from Marshland). I now see they are £835+VAT+delivery!
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
I have found non-genuine parts, particularly Britpart, to be rubbish with things like wheel bearing kits, seals, bushes and so on. Their wheel cylinders are particularly bad too - i renewed all my wheel cylinders and the end of 2006 with Britpart and had to change them again before my last trip as 2 of them were leaking past the seals. Every single non-genuine hub oil seal has leaked and since replaced with genuine! IMHO non-genuine are perfectly fine for things they cant really mess up like floor pans and other panels, outriggers and so on though.
Bertbuckie
New Member
Damn, thought I might have got a bargain there
Rustyrhino how did you manage to make your snorkel fit on top of the carb? does mine just lack space ( between carb inlet and bonnet ) because its a webber carb ?
Rustyrhino how did you manage to make your snorkel fit on top of the carb? does mine just lack space ( between carb inlet and bonnet ) because its a webber carb ?
Bertbuckie
New Member
I have heard bad stories about britpart but tbh mine isnt going to get much punishment like Im guessing yours does.... When it comes to time to replace them I will do a price comparison and see which is more worthwhile
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
Damn, thought I might have got a bargain there
Rustyrhino how did you manage to make your snorkel fit on top of the carb? does mine just lack space ( between carb inlet and bonnet ) because its a webber carb ?
Mine is a Weber carb too - but I have changed things a bit. I can dig out pics if you like
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
I have heard bad stories about britpart but tbh mine isnt going to get much punishment like Im guessing yours does.... When it comes to time to replace them I will do a price comparison and see which is more worthwhile
They way I see it now - take lets say, a hub oil seal. 75p non genuine. £4 genuine. The non-genuine is likely to fail...is it really worth saving a few quid and have to take the thing apart...! Any seal/bush/bearing that you don't particularly want to replace for the fun of it, buy genuine.
Bertbuckie
New Member
Please dig out pics..... both me and dad like it
Also is it home made or a bought snorkel ?
Also is it home made or a bought snorkel ?
Bertbuckie
New Member
rusty, if prices are that close genuine it is, if its a difference of £1 - £40..... thats different lol
Cant wait to get a new chassis ect and get cracking....... want new paint first and I have managed to dig out 20+ wire brushes from my toolbox ( was re-arranging the workshop today and stuck some tools on a shadow board ---- might take pics sometime )
Cant wait to get a new chassis ect and get cracking....... want new paint first and I have managed to dig out 20+ wire brushes from my toolbox ( was re-arranging the workshop today and stuck some tools on a shadow board ---- might take pics sometime
)
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
Glad you like it
It is very much a home made snorkel other than two things - the mushroom top (got on ebay for about a fiver on auction) and the elbow that goes into the wing (bought for a Defender, £10 at a landie show, but they are available all over the place) So pretty much the whole thing cost £15 as the rest of it was bits of stuff I already had kicking about.
First step was to change out the airbox but of course you would need to do this, I just prefer it this way. I did not want the snorkel on the drivers side of the car either. We got a Range Rover Classic EFI airbox...unfortunately the box flows the wrong way round if that makes sense, so chopped both ends off, reversed the internals and welded it back together...bit tedious but needed to be done! You will not be able to have your airbox here if your heater is down there! We then modified the outlet so that it will fit directly onto the snorkel elbow:
The cut up some pipe, I think it was from an old bull bar or something:
Not sure if you can see in the pic, but we made and welded a bracket to the pipe which bolts up to the windscreen hinge and another small bracket which is bolted through the roof gutter. Wanted the snorkel to head to the sky rather than the direction of the pipe (if that makes sense) so made a triangulated section before the final bit of pipe.
Used some random bit of flexible pipe (I think airbox pipe) from the elbow to the metal part of the snorkel and finished in trusty hammerite.
Hope that helps!
It is very much a home made snorkel other than two things - the mushroom top (got on ebay for about a fiver on auction) and the elbow that goes into the wing (bought for a Defender, £10 at a landie show, but they are available all over the place) So pretty much the whole thing cost £15 as the rest of it was bits of stuff I already had kicking about.
First step was to change out the airbox but of course you would need to do this, I just prefer it this way. I did not want the snorkel on the drivers side of the car either. We got a Range Rover Classic EFI airbox...unfortunately the box flows the wrong way round if that makes sense, so chopped both ends off, reversed the internals and welded it back together...bit tedious but needed to be done! You will not be able to have your airbox here if your heater is down there! We then modified the outlet so that it will fit directly onto the snorkel elbow:
The cut up some pipe, I think it was from an old bull bar or something:
Not sure if you can see in the pic, but we made and welded a bracket to the pipe which bolts up to the windscreen hinge and another small bracket which is bolted through the roof gutter. Wanted the snorkel to head to the sky rather than the direction of the pipe (if that makes sense) so made a triangulated section before the final bit of pipe.
Used some random bit of flexible pipe (I think airbox pipe) from the elbow to the metal part of the snorkel and finished in trusty hammerite.
Hope that helps!
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
rusty, if prices are that close genuine it is, if its a difference of £1 - £40..... thats different lol
Cant wait to get a new chassis ect and get cracking....... want new paint first and I have managed to dig out 20+ wire brushes from my toolbox ( was re-arranging the workshop today and stuck some tools on a shadow board ---- might take pics sometime
New paint first? What are you going to paint?
Have fun with the wire brushes LOL, you may end up needing all 20 hehe. Personally, I would use an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment, unless that is what you mean!
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
Good place to compare genuine and non-genuine prices is lrseries.com - they sell both of most things and list the prices underneath eachother where they do, very handy.
Bertbuckie
New Member
Cheers for the how-2, the info and the advice
I want paint - red oxide and hammerite ( or similar ) and wire brush I meant the drill and grinder type --- I think things in my head and type them....but only I understand lol
I also want some gasket paper ect just to start splitting parts, wire brushing, re-gasketing and painting prepairing for the new chassis
There was another thread on here....cant remember who but it was an amazing restoration tho not finished that inspired me to try and match/beat it..... cant help it im very competative lol - loved the engine tho..... an absolute work of art!
I want paint - red oxide and hammerite ( or similar ) and wire brush I meant the drill and grinder type
--- I think things in my head and type them....but only I understand lolI also want some gasket paper ect just to start splitting parts, wire brushing, re-gasketing and painting prepairing for the new chassis
There was another thread on here....cant remember who but it was an amazing restoration tho not finished that inspired me to try and match/beat it..... cant help it im very competative lol - loved the engine tho..... an absolute work of art!
rustyrhinos
Well-Known Member
Thats OK
Sounds like you have a good plan - will be nice to have a shelf full of renewed, painted parts ready to go on the chassis - certainly easier than paiting them on and then having to wait for it to dry before fitting!
Sounds like you have a good plan - will be nice to have a shelf full of renewed, painted parts ready to go on the chassis - certainly easier than paiting them on and then having to wait for it to dry before fitting!
Bertbuckie
New Member
Dad has some paint.... you paint it on and it turns rust back to metal ????
He bought it for his last Fergie and swears by it.... Im not sure tho - anyone have any experience with this? could I paint the chassis in it roflmfao ---- seriously tho does it stop things from rusting from the inside out after painting ?
He bought it for his last Fergie and swears by it.... Im not sure tho - anyone have any experience with this? could I paint the chassis in it roflmfao ---- seriously tho does it stop things from rusting from the inside out after painting ?
johnny curt 1
Well-Known Member
the best way to use that stuff to guarantee it wont rust from the inside out is to warm the metal up to about radiator temp to remove any moisture from the metal also it expands the steel then paint it on while the part is still hot so it gets worked into the molecular structure of the steel and the heat also softens the paint to help it penetrate better and gets it to go off a lot quicker ( warning do it outdoors as there will be fumes ) as the metal cools it will contract trapping the paint in the metal and forceing air out effectively vacuume wrapping the part i have experimented with this process with 2 identical trailers at the same time done it with one just painting it on the other heating it up the one i heated up is still as good as new 7 years on the other rotted to the point of needing redoing 2yrs ago
i guess the old fart down the road was right afterall but i cant tell him he was now as he died last year lol
i guess the old fart down the road was right afterall but i cant tell him he was now as he died last year lol
