Hello all, bought a series 2a recently as an partly finished resto. A new loom has been installed and it runs but it is a bit questionable. I've attached a picture of the fuse box mess unsure where to go with this. It's all been jumpered and I can't seem to find the right wires to correct it. Is it missing part of the loom? I've been using my trusty Haynes manual to work through most of the problems. It runs, all the lights work, wipers, heater, fogs etc etc. But just because it works doesn't mean its correct. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

I know not alot about your flavour.
But it appears that the 30a is suppling power to the other fuses.
Its a mess behind the dash.
You just need to break it down into small chunks/circuit's and work through it bit by bit.
@mystery will be along soon with help I am sure

J

neilmacforsyth said:

Hello all, bought a series 2a recently as a partly finished resto. A new loom has been installed and it runs but it is a bit questionable. I've attached a picture of the fuse box mess unsure where to go with this. It's all been jumpered and I can't seem to find the right wires to correct it. Is it missing part of the loom? I've been using my trusty Haynes manual to work through most of the problems. It runs, all the lights work, wipers, heater, fogs etc etc. But just because it works doesn't mean its correct. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

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Standard Series wiring always looks a mess. Doesn’t mean it is. Also note that a Series would probably only had 2 fuses. Not a fuse box…. So long as it is safe. It should be fine. If you really don’t like it. You can start over. The wiring is pretty simple really.

My initial thoughts, pull a fuse and see what turns off. Repeat until nothing works or all fuses removed.

kermit_rr said:

My initial thoughts, pull a fuse and see what turns off. Repeat until nothing works or all fuses removed.

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Topman...process of elimination.

try https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/series-2a-wiring.380658/

marjon said:

But it appears that the 30a is suppling power to the other fuses.

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I would agree with that, It would originally have been a brown wire supplying the fuse panel which would have had two or three fuses. With the style of fuse panel used here the jumper cables are the only option other than multiple freed wires. I prefer a busbar style fuse board with one large feed cable and then each circuit on its own fuse (Blue sea link but others available).

The series wiring is simple enough you could slowly work through circuit at a time. If you wanted to do it properly you can get the correct colour coded wire as well I used this chap on ebay for my rebuild (LINK).

Other than the blue crimp connectors I would agree with @300bhp/ton the dash wiring looks about right. It is not obviously any worse than original. There is also nothing inherently wrong with the blue crimp connectors other than it is obvious they are not original. I personally prefer a barrel crimp connector which is what the factory used but they require the correct crimper tools to use so are not as cheap and easy.

I'd be inclined to buy the expensive crimping tool (I've seen some supposedly professional quality items for about £40) and restore everything back to standard spec.
My suffix G 88 diesel has basically standard wiring with just two fuses, and I've never had a problem.
But what is worrying is that the lighting circuits still.work with both fuses removed.
Surely that is a fire risk ?