jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
why are you removing starter?
Shanec
Active Member
Parts ordered yesterday
Second thoughts on using forklift. the forklift drivers just bought it so dont trust him with precision movement.
Plan of action is hang block and tackle from an extended forklift fork inside the cab, screw in M10 threaded rod into the bellhousing, and try slip it out.
Appears there isnt enough room to get transfer lever or rubber gromit out, so will need to play with angle of engine.
Failing all of this Ill have had enough ****ing around and will bring engine out the front using forklift, as radiator and intercooler are already off.
Second thoughts on using forklift. the forklift drivers just bought it so dont trust him with precision movement.
Plan of action is hang block and tackle from an extended forklift fork inside the cab, screw in M10 threaded rod into the bellhousing, and try slip it out.
Appears there isnt enough room to get transfer lever or rubber gromit out, so will need to play with angle of engine.
Failing all of this Ill have had enough ****ing around and will bring engine out the front using forklift, as radiator and intercooler are already off.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Having done both, I also think engine out is easier.
There is a small casting at the top of the gearbox that the transfer box lever sticks out of. This unbolts and you can disconnect the transfer box lever arm. That will give you the clearance you need. If I remember corectly, it's 4 bolts on top of the casting around the t/box lever. Access to disconnect the acutal arm is a right pain in the arse but it's also a good chance to clean and adjust it
There is a small casting at the top of the gearbox that the transfer box lever sticks out of. This unbolts and you can disconnect the transfer box lever arm. That will give you the clearance you need. If I remember corectly, it's 4 bolts on top of the casting around the t/box lever. Access to disconnect the acutal arm is a right pain in the arse but it's also a good chance to clean and adjust it
Shanec
Active Member
Dropped box yesterday. No need to touch starter at all as doesn't even engage with gearbox.
Clutch fork had punched through. New parts all round including the fulcrum/pivot ball which was oval so probably original!
Failed to put gearbox back on. Tying to line it with both the hole to put shaft in and bellhoising bolts all at right angle wasn't possible.
About to tackle it again using ratchet straps on both gbox and tbox, one behind tbox to engine to pull it toward engine, and another on drivers side gbox chassis mounting to rotate both boxes together anticlockwise so bellhousimg studs line up with bell housing holes, as yesterday bellhoising sat 15 degrees too far clockwise.
Next time engines coming out. Without access to a ramp gbox out is slow and fiddly.
Wish me luck, I need it.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
I jiggled about with 2 separate lifting strops going to a common hook on an engine crane until the whole lot picked up level.
Not needed to do it myself but some m10 threaded bar screwed into a couple of the bolt holes on the engine will help you.
A jack under the sump to alter the engine angle and a spanner on the crank bolt to tickle the spline enlightenment is recommended.
Are you doing this on your own?
You need another pair of hands really.
Not needed to do it myself but some m10 threaded bar screwed into a couple of the bolt holes on the engine will help you.
A jack under the sump to alter the engine angle and a spanner on the crank bolt to tickle the spline enlightenment is recommended.
Are you doing this on your own?
You need another pair of hands really.
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
Well done, hopefully that'll be the last major job for a while. I think if you can manage that you'll manage just about any job your tratter will throw at you
flat
Well-Known Member
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Don't upset him! He's had a rough couple of days!
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
He'll have an even rougher day if he has to do it again like I had to. My 'replacement' lasted less than three months before it split and I made my own HD one
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Bummer!
I fitted a new genuine one when I did my conversion 10 yrs ago. The original one was fine but I replaced it anyway.
Was it britpart?
Marmaduke
Well-Known Member
OP
I did two clutches in 20,000 miles (****part being the cause of the replacement) - I also went down the gearbox off route as I have so much stuff attached to the engine / engine bay.
Its a pain of a job and one I will not do again.
Sympathies.
Ps fit Borg Clutch - light and quiet.
I did two clutches in 20,000 miles (****part being the cause of the replacement) - I also went down the gearbox off route as I have so much stuff attached to the engine / engine bay.
Its a pain of a job and one I will not do again.
Sympathies.
Ps fit Borg Clutch - light and quiet.
Shanec
Active Member
Feeling smug indeed.
One week on and driving great.
Noticed my driving style a lot more mechanically sympathetic now I've done those 25 odd hours work.
Borg beck clutch came out as had broken spring.
Not a HD fork, but genuine lr, and I'll be replacing it every 50k with clutch.
Fitted new fork pivot ball thing too as it was like a rugby ball lol.
Advice....if u take transfer lever off, put it back on and casing before bolting box up otherwise can't get bolts in.
Anyone looking for advice I trust this thread is of service to u. Thank you to all contributors. Without them it would be on the drive in pieces.
One week on and driving great.
Noticed my driving style a lot more mechanically sympathetic now I've done those 25 odd hours work.
Borg beck clutch came out as had broken spring.
Not a HD fork, but genuine lr, and I'll be replacing it every 50k with clutch.
Fitted new fork pivot ball thing too as it was like a rugby ball lol.
Advice....if u take transfer lever off, put it back on and casing before bolting box up otherwise can't get bolts in.
Anyone looking for advice I trust this thread is of service to u. Thank you to all contributors. Without them it would be on the drive in pieces.
nobber
Well-Known Member
Here is what you do , its pee easy.
Cut some copper pipe a little shorter than the rod, slip the rod inside it, fix clip to end of rod and bring the copper pipe flush with the clip. You now have something that will keep the clip in place while you insert it into the clutch fork.
Cut some copper pipe a little shorter than the rod, slip the rod inside it, fix clip to end of rod and bring the copper pipe flush with the clip. You now have something that will keep the clip in place while you insert it into the clutch fork.
