Barbados
Active Member
The rad was in fair shape, but I prefer better. Since the rad here would cost an arm, a leg and your first born, I had it re-cored with a 4 core replacement. Since the 300TDI's run relatively well and within their temp ranges, I dont think I needed a bigger upgrade than that. I will run a low profile electric extracting fan as well.
The guy here who does the re-coring of rads did a few for defenders already and they work well.
The guy here who does the re-coring of rads did a few for defenders already and they work well.
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Barbados
Active Member
Decided to pull the power plant, had it out within 2 and a half hours...it came out trouble free. I was happy to see no signs of rust anywhere on the firewall, engine bay or chassis..none.
The clutch and pressure plate, bearings etc., were changed a not too long ago but I will refit all with OEM parts.
I will tear down the engine this week. It was not burning oil nor showed any other signs of wear as yet, but at 230,000 KM I rather not wait.
Next week I will pull down the gear box, pressure wash it, change the seal between the transfer case and the gear box. Will do all I can to it to make it better and last.
The clutch and pressure plate, bearings etc., were changed a not too long ago but I will refit all with OEM parts.
I will tear down the engine this week. It was not burning oil nor showed any other signs of wear as yet, but at 230,000 KM I rather not wait.
Next week I will pull down the gear box, pressure wash it, change the seal between the transfer case and the gear box. Will do all I can to it to make it better and last.
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Barbados
Active Member
Barbados
Active Member
Mates, I pulled the gearbox out yesterday, all looks OK.
I will change all of the seals, external bearings and U-Joints, anything else recommended? I will pressure wash the gearbox and flush out the oil sumps.
Like everyone else, I would like to install a clutch which will have some longevity to it, what would you recommend?
I have heard that some guys used the 130 clutch plate on the 110's any of you guys did this?
Looks like the BP clutch fork was installed by the previous owner. I guess the clutch slave plunger point is what fails on these..might need to weld a grade 8 washer in there.
You guys have any other tips on stuff I should do while this is out and before re installation?
Cheers Mates.
I will change all of the seals, external bearings and U-Joints, anything else recommended? I will pressure wash the gearbox and flush out the oil sumps.
Like everyone else, I would like to install a clutch which will have some longevity to it, what would you recommend?
I have heard that some guys used the 130 clutch plate on the 110's any of you guys did this?
Looks like the BP clutch fork was installed by the previous owner. I guess the clutch slave plunger point is what fails on these..might need to weld a grade 8 washer in there.
You guys have any other tips on stuff I should do while this is out and before re installation?
Cheers Mates.
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mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Afaik, a 130 or hd clutch may leave you shaking at the lights.
Barbados
Active Member
I have to pull off the one currently on the engine Mick to see what it is. Why the shaking issue, unbalanced, heavy, what's the reason?
Cheers.
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Barbados
Active Member
130 Clutch kit reference
Land Rover Defender Clutch Parts | 130 300 tdi | Paddock
HID thread
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/hids-defender-283915.html
.
Land Rover Defender Clutch Parts | 130 300 tdi | Paddock
HID thread
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/hids-defender-283915.html
.
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mick the builder
Well-Known Member
Fewer springs on clutch plate = more vibration.
Im sure somebody will explain this more technically
Have a search, this was brought up before, by me i think
Barbados
Active Member
Fewer springs on clutch plate = more vibration.
Im sure somebody will explain this more technically
Have a search, this was brought up before, by me i think
But that's the opposite to what the 130 kit consists of I think. I thought the 110 stock clutch disk has 6 springs as opposed to 8 on the 130 and in theory, I would expect that the more springs the more dampening there is...thus less vibration.
Barbados
Active Member
The best thing to do and JM sent part numbers is using an HD clutch which might have more clamping force and an 130 clutch disk or friction disk as you Brits call it
If I was in Canada I would have had my clutch guys cut me a ceramic clutch disk, they used to do wonders on clutch kits for my shop.
If I was in Canada I would have had my clutch guys cut me a ceramic clutch disk, they used to do wonders on clutch kits for my shop.
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
A quote from the legend that is, JM." h/d cutches will give you gear box knock at idle,and too much shock than it needs for long life"The best thing to do and JM sent part numbers is using an HD clutch which might have more clamping force and an 130 clutch disk or friction disk as you Brits call it
If I was in Canada I would have had my clutch guys cut me a ceramic clutch disk, they used to do wonders on clutch kits for my shop.
Barbados
Active Member
Hmmm, wonder what knock there is at idle, interesting, I will ask him about it along with an explanation. The rotational mass should be the same and with extra springs on the clutch disk and more pressure fingers on the clutch, I would have thought that it would be smoother.
The 130 friction disk is also smaller than that of the 110.
Will find out and post findings here.
Cheers Mick.
Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Its more to do with the torsional impulses from the crank (as a result of the firing impulses), it will mean that the gearbox input shaft is subject to multiple pulses as it rotates that will effectively cause the gears to 'rattle' on their shafts. The springs in the clutch plate effectively help to dampen the vibration out, think of it as a cheap/simple dual mass flywheel type of effect. HD springs just mean that more crank vibration passes to the gearbox to rattle the gears.
Barbados
Active Member
Ahh got it Kwakerman, all the wile I was wondering how the vibration could have been caused by the clutch assembly as that's the way it seemed.
So essentially it's the HD clutch assembly allowing more of the crank impulse firing vibration, to be directed and transferred to the gearbox main shaft because of the rigidity of the HD clutch assembly.
Thanks for the clarification Kwakerman.
Barbados
Active Member
Kwakerman, since we are on the subject and you mentioned that the 300tdi on a Landy and dual mass flywheels, have you know of anyone who had their flywheel lightened? IIRC, it's the TD5 which has the dual mass flywheel.
I know the heavier the flywheel is, the better it maintains momentum but I would prefer acceleration I will pull apart my clutch assembly to take a look and will weigh the flywheel.
Cheers.
I know the heavier the flywheel is, the better it maintains momentum but I would prefer acceleration
I will pull apart my clutch assembly to take a look and will weigh the flywheel.Cheers.
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Kwakerman
Well-Known Member
Kwakerman, since we are on the subject and you mentioned that the 300tdi on a Landy and dual mass flywheels, have you know of anyone who had their flywheel lightened? IIRC, it's the TD5 which has the dual mass flywheel.
I know the heavier the flywheel is, the better it maintains momentum but I would prefer acceleration
Cheers.
As you will be aware the 300 is a solid flywheel, the DMF reference was just as an example, and yes TD5 has a DMF. Don't know anyone who has lightened theirs but not sure how much of a difference it would make. If you lightened it you would only be shaving a couple of % off the total drive train inertia as you still need to spin up two gearboxes, 2 props, 2 diffs and four 1/2 shafts. Think I would be tempted to leave as-is as the extra mass of the flywheel will probably help with clutch plate heat dissipation.
Barbados
Active Member
Yup I know that it has a single mass flywheel and it's only those which will allow lightening. Makes absolute sense..l I have to remember that I have two gearboxes within all the other drive train parts to it. I am stuck thinking in BMW and other Euro performance car mode, need to snap out of that
Thanks Kwakerman, you are a great mate.
Barbados
Active Member
Just pulled off my clutch assemble.
Looks like its an AP (Former Borg and Beck) clutch and a friction disk from a 130.
The clutch fork looks like its the HD one as well. I have not really driven this Landy, brought it home from the seller and drove it around the block and started stripping it.
I have had it idling a few times and cant remember hearing the knocking but wont doubt you guys based on your experience.
I am happy to say that the pilot shaft has zero play and feels smooth.
The clutch assembly is in very good condition, not used much, might just swap out the friction disk for a new one.
The flywheel is in perfect condition, no scoring and no ridge at all.
Is it supposed to be flat? I am guessing so. The BMW ones normally have a slight step between the bolting area and the surface where the disk lining sits on.
.
Looks like its an AP (Former Borg and Beck) clutch and a friction disk from a 130.
The clutch fork looks like its the HD one as well. I have not really driven this Landy, brought it home from the seller and drove it around the block and started stripping it.
I have had it idling a few times and cant remember hearing the knocking but wont doubt you guys based on your experience.
I am happy to say that the pilot shaft has zero play and feels smooth.
The clutch assembly is in very good condition, not used much, might just swap out the friction disk for a new one.
The flywheel is in perfect condition, no scoring and no ridge at all.
Is it supposed to be flat? I am guessing so. The BMW ones normally have a slight step between the bolting area and the surface where the disk lining sits on.
.
