FX4S
Member
Wondering if that is correct sp00k - in the rebuild pictures in this post, Sam clearly manages to mount the cylinder head and the sump - whether the weight was borderline on the frame, maybe Sam could comment.
Wondering if that is correct sp00k - in the rebuild pictures in this post, Sam clearly manages to mount the cylinder head and the sump - whether the weight was borderline on the frame, maybe Sam could comment.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
I would expect the stand would cope with around twice the rated weight before failing. It might not be very safe to use though.
Having said that, if sp00k is correct, you'll still only be looking at 300kg max.
FX4S
Member
Thanks for that.
In retrospect, I plan to put as much of the gubbins back on while the engine can be rotated for ease of mounting stuff.
I will then make a frame for the engine to sit on out of soft wood (size of the sump lip where the bolts are) and put it on a trolley. Final step will be to hoist it and deal with the rear plate, starter motor and gearbox which I will do once the cylinder head hoist eylets are back on.
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
Sorry for taking so long to reply!
I'd say it to be around the 300kg mark fully built up (less than 340) as you have it. The engine stand coped well with it. The only thing I would say is to have 2 people to help turn it, one to lift the engine at the front and one to turn it. Single handed its difficult to turn due to how the engine is on the stand.
I'd say it to be around the 300kg mark fully built up (less than 340) as you have it. The engine stand coped well with it. The only thing I would say is to have 2 people to help turn it, one to lift the engine at the front and one to turn it. Single handed its difficult to turn due to how the engine is on the stand.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
i find building engine easier on a low bench rather than engine stand
FX4S
Member
Thanks samc88.
I have a few more questions to ask if I may.
Firstly, fantastic post this - has been very useful.
Timing marks is my first question - workshop manual shows arrows on the casing and dots on the toothed pulleys. Did you set the dots and arrows up, and if so how much "leeway" in alignment is allowed?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes for cam crank should have a pin but has mark too ,pump pulleys usually have 2 marks .for lr f for freight rover, pump also has a pin for pumps fine tuning after belts fitted but can be done by eye as you centre a slot in the edbge of a disc through hole
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
higher injection pump was why sherpa variant was preferred for series 2.5 conversions
FX4S
Member
Oh that I know from having to dismantle my steering gear to get the pump past the steering linkage!
I've attached a link to a better quality picture - you can see the markings quite clearly. Are they close enough?
http://www.london-taxi.at/pic1.jpg
Like a prat I forgot to make a match up mark so I fitted back exactly - it that going to be a sod to get right?
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you can only get it so near cam looks ok if anything dot slightly above arrow as its advanced rather than below as the retarded, if yours is frieght rover variant dont you want f not dot on pump
FX4S
Member
Thats what it says in my workshop manual too - wasn't perfect but best I can do - I guess fine adjustment is done by turning the pump which I forgot to mark!
Since I forgot to mark the pump when I removed it, should I mount the pump on the 3 bolts centrally to start with or turn it in one direction fully?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
its hard to tell from pics but id have though pump pulley want to be clockwise a tooth so fs after mark on case rather than before , it doesnt matter till you come to set pump where it sits in slots ,just once timed turn it twice and recheck
FX4S
Member
Thanks jamesmartin - will budge it one more tooth over. Have done the turn twice routine already. Sadly I don't have a dial torque meter for the tensioner, looks tight enough though!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
18lbsft on torque wrench is very near
FX4S
Member
jamesmartin - new picture of timing marks below.
I can't get them any better! Do you think they're ok?
Picture order from left to right - crankshaft, camshaft and diesel pump
link direct to website - very big picture http://www.london-taxi.at/timing.jpg
I can't get them any better! Do you think they're ok?
Picture order from left to right - crankshaft, camshaft and diesel pump
link direct to website - very big picture http://www.london-taxi.at/timing.jpg
Attachments
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
looks very good to me
FX4S
Member
looks very good to me
Thanks,
Now, I worked on the basis that the crankshaft and camshaft arrow alignment is the most important as they are crucial to the timing of the valves etc. OK, the pump is important too, but that can be adjusted outside by turning the pump cover I believe.
I'm sure I've seen a post about the timing of the diesel pump somewhere around .
You may have noticed the timing case innards are different to the LR version - is the Sherpa the same as this - any pictures/links?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
pumps adjustable a bit on the 3 studs ,sherpa engine looked like yours with idler as well as tensioner with a tin front cover
