Coffeelandy

Well-Known Member
Men,
I've just bought some used Boost Alloys with Grabber AT on the rear and TRs on the front. Not sure if that is relevant but they are the same size tyres at my Goodyear Wrangled MTs I've just taken off to save for the winter. When I turn hard left the tyre rubs how do I adjust this?
 
Men,
I've just bought some used Boost Alloys with Grabber AT on the rear and TRs on the front. Not sure if that is relevant but they are the same size tyres at my Goodyear Wrangled MTs I've just taken off to save for the winter. When I turn hard left the tyre rubs how do I adjust this?

Tyres vary a lot within sizes. I have 2 sets of 7.50 16s, there is an inch difference in diameter, and an inch difference in width, between the 2 makes.

You can adjust the lock stops on the swivel housing, or else just not turn the steering wheel so far, you will get used to it pretty quickly.
 
Tyres vary a lot within sizes. I have 2 sets of 7.50 16s, there is an inch difference in diameter, and an inch difference in width, between the 2 makes.

You can adjust the lock stops on the swivel housing, or else just not turn the steering wheel so far, you will get used to it pretty quickly.
What's it rubbing on.
 
And in case ya dint know the lock stops are simply the extended bolt on the swivel housing lika dis....

P1100232.JPG
 
Men,
I've just bought some used Boost Alloys with Grabber AT on the rear and TRs on the front. Not sure if that is relevant but they are the same size tyres at my Goodyear Wrangled MTs I've just taken off to save for the winter. When I turn hard left the tyre rubs how do I adjust this?
The other possibility is that the Boosts have a different offset from your current rims.
 
The way I set mine up to get the tightest turning circle (car ferry rather than oil tanker) is to jack up the front, wind in the lock stops, turn wheel until just before tyre rubs on spanner arms or inner wheel arch and MOST importantly before the swivel oil seal touches the swivel mounting, and wind the bolt out until it contacts the flange.
Lower the jack and drive tight turns to test, possibly even mounting kerbs etc when on full lock. If all ok tighten the lock nuts that you couldn't see in BB's piccy.:)
Don't know if that is the right way though.:rolleyes::D
 
The way I set mine up to get the tightest turning circle (car ferry rather than oil tanker) is to jack up the front, wind in the lock stops, turn wheel until just before tyre rubs on spanner arms or inner wheel arch and MOST importantly before the swivel oil seal touches the swivel mounting, and wind the bolt out until it contacts the flange.
Lower the jack and drive tight turns to test, possibly even mounting kerbs etc when on full lock. If all ok tighten the lock nuts that you couldn't see in BB's piccy.:)
Don't know if that is the right way though.:rolleyes::D
I'll give that a blast.
 

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