timc1967

Active Member
I have the above on my 110 CSW I really don't think it looks right on the old girl so I would like to return to standard intake. I do not wade in deep water, and let's face it, the 110 is not the best off road tool.

It looks like the base of the snorkel fits over and replaces the regular intake grille, but does anyone know if anything would have been cut/butchered, that would complicated getting this back to standard?

This is the snorkel I have:
http://www.paddockspares.com/da3024-safari-raised-air-intake-200tdi.html

See picture, which was taken before it was back on the road.
GOPR0482.JPG
 
If its done by most folk it wont go any further in than just bolting to the outside of the air intake........ Especially the Paddocks one..... Some bolt/seal and have internal piping.... but this one doesn't hence is re-branded raised air intake not snorkel.
It should be easy enough.....
110 is the best off road tool...

Watcha doing with the snow cowl :)
 
If its done by most folk it wont go any further in than just bolting to the outside of the air intake........ Especially the Paddocks one..... Some bolt/seal and have internal piping.... but this one doesn't hence is re-branded raised air intake not snorkel.
It should be easy enough.....
110 is the best off road tool...

Watcha doing with the snow cowl :)
:) I don't really like the snow cowl either but I hear there's going to be an arctic weather bomb so I might keep it until the spring.
 
I should clarify that the 110 is a great expedition vehicle, with excellent off road capability, but if I wanted a specialist off road vehicle for weekend fun (which I don't) I would have a 90. It's just my view.
 
I've removed the internal air intake gubbins to make my snorkel fit 'better' than the standard seams and press-fit crap .. you're welcome to them if I still have them .. I'll look tomorrow ... :)
 
I had a 110 200TDI on which I installed a Safari snorkel kit, seems like yours the same. IIFC, I cut a cardboard template to install 3 rivet nuts and that was it for the fender part, so you will have the rivet nuts to contend with. I Then drilled holes in the windshield frame and tapped it for 5 stainless steel machine hex head screws. No cutting of the fender was needed for the Safari kit.

Snorkel 600.jpg
 

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Dont forget you will need the std plastic mesh to fit over the hole after you remove the snorkel.
Personally I would leave it be as the rivnut holes will look shtie, plus there the holes in the A-pillar. for the top bracket.
On the 300 and the td5 the snorkel creates a large blindspot as they are mounted on the offside.
 
When I removed my snorkel I found I got better MPG. I also found the plastic cover used the same screw holes that was used by the snorkel. For the Snorkel supports on the window frame I used rubber grommets so everything is there if I want to put the snorkel back on. Having had my 110 with snorkel on and off I much prefer to leave it off, I get better engine performance. I have no intention to wade in deep water and ruin my 110 and if I do another trip through the desert I will just take an extra air filter.
 
These are great insights as I hoped, many thanks to you all. It does seem like I could return to standard with a few holes being the only consequence. I agree if there are holes in the wing it would look bad, but I think I can live with a few small grommets in the windscreen frame as mikescuba suggested. I removed my spare wheel carrier on the back door and used grommets in the same way.

I will be ordering a couple of thermostats and gaskets this week, and I will include an intake grille and see what I find behind the snorkel.

Once this task is complete, I will be removing the front bumper light-bar, the lights don't work, and the mud stuff centre dash, as none of the switches work. I think I will keep the snow cowl. I should upload a picture now its all clean and polished. Its still shabby but its clean and shabby!
 
That has reminded me when I first fitted my snorkel I noticed it was down on power, not so much up through the gears but when going up a long hill in top it just tailed off which it didnt do beforehand, so I popped the flex off under the bonnet and it was back to its old self, since then and many pump tweaks later I cant say I notice lack of power at all, so maybe only really noticeable in std tune?
 
The raised intake is now off and it does seem to be running nicely. There are 3 holes in the wing and 5 in the screen post, which I have covered with heavy grease until my new grommets arrive in the post.
The only challenge was attaching the new intake grille, for which there were no badge clips to accept the pins on the back of the grille. However, I drilled and screwed it on; looks fine.
 

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