this is a link that will tell you that you'll need the motor inspected, they've done thier research to assist the customisers of this country (these rules cover just about any modified motor) and tried to set it out in a way us ordinary folks can understand without unnecessary jargon

Rebodying - A clarification - Association of Car Enthusiasts (ACE)

it actually states on this that even bobtails legally need checking (the majority of modifiers in my opinion just ignore this and run the risk of a VOSA pull and the associated legal problems this will bring)

anyway i'd suggest you read that site to clarify for yourself the requirements for legal registration

hope it helps
Pete

p.s.
here's an official site (government) that lays out the regulations to show you how the points tally up to retain a registration
http://webarchive.nationalarchives....llingAVehicle/RegisteringAVehicle/DG_10014199

and an all important quote

Scoring components

The following values will be allocated to the major components used:

chassis or body shell (body and chassis as one unit - monocoque ie direct replacement from the manufacturer) (original or new) = 5 points
suspension = 2 points
axles = 2 points
transmission = 2 points
steering assembly = 2 points
engine = 1 point

Where there is evidence that two vehicles have been welded together to form one (ie 'cut and shut') a 'Q' mark will be allocated, IVA, ESVA, SVA or MSVA will be required.


endquote

the cutting of your chassis will come under "cut and shut"

WHAT GEARBOX????

ive been pondering this for a little while and to keep the series grill and look ill need to move my engine back in the chassis... but this means ill need a shorter gearbox... i know that much...

am i right in thinking that the gearbox i should need is an lt77 from an early 90 this is what i think atleast but can anyone confirm this for me or tell me im a fool before i waste my money on the wrong one.

also what should i look out for when buying a used box and what type (i.e year, model...) of truck can i look out for in the breakers yards and fields

thanks

an early lt77 short bellhousing box (long stick) is correct or you could use a Series gearbox (be aware the youngest of those are almost 30 now)

a link on the ashcroft site for you to read as they explain the fitment nicely

Ashcroft Transmissions - Series 5 speed kits

excelent thankyou... i was on the money then, ill be looking out for an old lt77 box then. thankyou very much

well not done as much as i'd hoped this week only managed to repare and fit the sills but i did have a good tidy of the work area and made parts more accessable rather than burried in more landy bits ill get some pics of the sill repars up later tho

TheKeymeister said:

You seem pretty knowledgable about the legal side of it- sorry to hijack but does changing the outriggers and rear crossmember also count a chassis modification the same as shortening a chassis? Can't seem to get an answe to that anywhere!

Click to expand...

KM,

replacing rotten outriggers or xmember is fine - it's a repair. Moving them to other positions is not and you have modified the chassis.

HTH

the wording in one of those links i posted up goes something like...

"to retain the identity of the vehicle the body must be altered to fit the chassis"

this would have legally allowed you to retain the discovery identity had you not needed to cut the chassis about to get the Series bodywork on to it

the only legal identity you have now is for the original Series rolling chassis (assuming you haven't cut it up)

Hi, i love your idea and how you are going about it, i have a range rover classic chassis that is 88 inch with frong and rear spring hangers, but i have a bit of a naughty motor as my 2a im the second owner with 17500 recorded miles on it every recept etc was in a smash and i rolled and hit a pylon and the roof was cut up for scrap and the rear tub was bent but what finished that was the fact the rear bulkhead was an inch out from one side to the other and i had a 109 hi cap rear bulkhead so fitted that and a new truckcab and a angle iron rear body so its useable until i can get over to england to pick up a new rear tub but it can all come off and it looks quite good not your typical tray back its back end is covered in 1 inch marine ply, good luck with your build nice to see another series on the road

And at last its time for another picture post got my finger out this weekend but heres some pics of the sill repair i did quickly the other week...









thats the n/s sill repaired then i know what ill do... ill leave it in the van for a week till i get my finger out again and we'll trial fit all the body work see below

remember tho this is a trial fit and i still have some mounts to weld in place and the rear x-member and a trans tunnel to make... but its coming together





















i hope you'll agree its not coming on too bad... ill keep takeing pics of things need to get some mounts made and welded to the chassis cause at the moment the tub is just blocked up on the chassis with some packers... also gonna trial fit all the new pedal box steering coloum etc till im happy everything fits then its all coming to bits again to get painted and have all shiny new seals and rivets to keep me dry

gonna try and get the doors in and the wings properly mounted this weekend if the weather holds out for me

New rear x-member will be with me tomorow

also got the new master cylinders and servo into the origional pedal box`s with some fetteling... need a 90 steering coloumn now and the bulkhead is nearly complete...

ill be back

well ive had the x member a week or so now and not realy done alot with it,

ill do some this weekend, promise