When you say connect heaters to battery, does that mean direct to battery post via a relay.

Yes, although if you are doing this it would be wise to fit a fuse board in the battery box so the length of confused live wire is as short as possible.

Does that mean splicing into a cable that is fed from the ignition, and if so, how do I identify one that is?

From memory the switched ignition live is orange and white, but it depends on the age of your defender.
 
Thanks for that. When you say connect heaters to battery, does that mean direct to battery post via a relay. Also what is involved in feeding the switch from ignition. Does that mean splicing into a cable that is fed from the ignition, and if so, how do I identify one that is?

Yes essentially. See attached a quick sketch. In my haste I forgot a fuse on the battery feed to the relay - use a fuse! No need for a fuse board or anything elaborate - a neat good inline fuse will work fine - do it as soon as you can after the connection to the battery. You could also use a fused relay - looks like a normal relay but with a standard auto fuse in the top. You can screw these to your battery box. You can copy that circuit for the other heater and just have 2 circuits side by side.

To identify an ign. switched live I would look in the centre of the dash - there are quite a few supplies in there that are only live with the ign. on. I seem to remember about 4-5 - totally disused on my 90 so ideal for this sort of thing. They will be all sorts of colours, there is not a standard colour that represents ign. switched as there are different switched supplies intended to be used for different things.

20180927_123716.jpg
 
Yes essentially. See attached a quick sketch. In my haste I forgot a fuse on the battery feed to the relay - use a fuse! No need for a fuse board or anything elaborate - a neat good inline fuse will work fine - do it as soon as you can after the connection to the battery. You could also use a fused relay - looks like a normal relay but with a standard auto fuse in the top. You can screw these to your battery box. You can copy that circuit for the other heater and just have 2 circuits side by side.

To identify an ign. switched live I would look in the centre of the dash - there are quite a few supplies in there that are only live with the ign. on. I seem to remember about 4-5 - totally disused on my 90 so ideal for this sort of thing. They will be all sorts of colours, there is not a standard colour that represents ign. switched as there are different switched supplies intended to be used for different things.

View attachment 159585
This is becoming a lot clearer and making the job less worrying thanks to your help. Sketch is very helpful. Thanks, and much appreciated.
 
This is becoming a lot clearer and making the job less worrying thanks to your help. Sketch is very helpful. Thanks, and much appreciated.
I found this today looking for somthing else!

https://www.electricalcarservices.c...1d2A0B2ywhmJ-Rvc72UF7BQK_BM65xGRoCUeoQAvD_BwE

Not sure what load your seats are - 4-5A maybe? I don't know. Anyway 40A is going to be overkill but at that price you will be sure the relay will be over spec'ed. Use a smaller fuse in it though!
 
Just to update driver seat is now in. The width is almost identical to the Defender seat but its tight when you close the door with the electric seat controls tight up against the door card. I am hoping in time the door card will adjust as I now have to slam the door.
 

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