B

Bluevan

New Member
Hi,

Last MOT on my 2002 110 TD5 CSW popped up an advisory for corrosion on the rear crossmember. As is usual this throws up a number of dilemmas...

Standard crossmember replacement vs galvanised crossmember replacement vs go all in for full new galvanised chassis (have already had some patch welding done so it may be struggling).

Also, If I go down the route of full chassis replacement is it worth doing clutch at the same time - am on the original at 143k and though there’s a bit of noise from the release bearing it otherwise seems to be doing it’s job ok but inevitably it will go at some point probably sooner rather than later....

Any thoughts or ideas?

Cheers,

Robert
 
Whatever you choose to do it will grow arms and legs, cost 3x what you expected, take 4x as long and be very satisfying when you finally reach the winning line
:D
 
Bluevan said:
Hi,

Last MOT on my 2002 110 TD5 CSW popped up an advisory for corrosion on the rear crossmember. As is usual this throws up a number of dilemmas...

Standard crossmember replacement vs galvanised crossmember replacement vs go all in for full new galvanised chassis (have already had some patch welding done so it may be struggling).

Also, If I go down the route of full chassis replacement is it worth doing clutch at the same time - am on the original at 143k and though there’s a bit of noise from the release bearing it otherwise seems to be doing it’s job ok but inevitably it will go at some point probably sooner rather than later....

Any thoughts or ideas?

Cheers,

Robert
Click to expand...
If you go full chassis replacement you will likely find loads of other repairs. Changing the clutch and renewing oil seals etc is a no brainer whilst you have unfettered access.
 
Bluevan said:
Hi,

Last MOT on my 2002 110 TD5 CSW popped up an advisory for corrosion on the rear crossmember. As is usual this throws up a number of dilemmas...

Standard crossmember replacement vs galvanised crossmember replacement vs go all in for full new galvanised chassis (have already had some patch welding done so it may be struggling).

Also, If I go down the route of full chassis replacement is it worth doing clutch at the same time - am on the original at 143k and though there’s a bit of noise from the release bearing it otherwise seems to be doing it’s job ok but inevitably it will go at some point probably sooner rather than later....

Any thoughts or ideas?

Cheers,

Robert
Click to expand...
Td5 rear crossmembers always go rusty, usually it will last for years.
Testers like to put an advisory or two, let VOSA know they are looking at the vehicle.
If you are worried about it, rub it down and paint it with Corroless and Black Enamel.
 
Sell as a project and buy a Freelander.
IMG_20200716_154040.jpg
 
Bluevan said:
Hi,

Last MOT on my 2002 110 TD5 CSW popped up an advisory for corrosion on the rear crossmember. As is usual this throws up a number of dilemmas...

Standard crossmember replacement vs galvanised crossmember replacement vs go all in for full new galvanised chassis (have already had some patch welding done so it may be struggling).

Also, If I go down the route of full chassis replacement is it worth doing clutch at the same time - am on the original at 143k and though there’s a bit of noise from the release bearing it otherwise seems to be doing it’s job ok but inevitably it will go at some point probably sooner rather than later....

Any thoughts or ideas?

Cheers,

Robert
Click to expand...
I would just replace the rear....
 
How rusty is it ? had it been full of holes the MOT would likely been a fail. Some pics may be handy.
 
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