Kev627

Active Member
My recently purchaysed '94 Discovery has rust on the boot floor, 3 patches covering about 30cm square in total.

Obviously that means there will be rust underneath the floor as well but apart from the tin of Waxoyl I've got how is it best to clean this little lot up and stop it from happening again?

Cheers
 
Does it look like this
 

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It's a well ****ed un. and it's whats under the sheet of 3/4" ply I've lined the rear out with.
 
My recently purchaysed '94 Discovery has rust on the boot floor, 3 patches covering about 30cm square in total.

Obviously that means there will be rust underneath the floor as well but apart from the tin of Waxoyl I've got how is it best to clean this little lot up and stop it from happening again?

Cheers
Wire brush the area or better still clean it with something like 40 grit paper ,getting rid of the surface rust.
Treat the areas with rust killer. Jenolite (contains Phosphoric acid )or Ku Rust etc .Red Oxide primer /bonda primer is what I use and then a couple of top coats of paint.Do it properly and it will keep the old tin worm at bay.
But if the area in question is that bad cut it back to clean metal and weld in some new patches.Putting waxoyl ontop of the rusted area will not cure it,just make it look like it has .
Hope this helps.


.
 
Wire brush the area or better still clean it with something like 40 grit paper ,getting rid of the surface rust.
Treat the areas with rust killer. Jenolite (contains Phosphoric acid )or Ku Rust etc .Red Oxide primer /bonda primer is what I use and then a couple of top coats of paint.Do it properly and it will keep the old tin worm at bay.
But if the area in question is that bad cut it back to clean metal and weld in some new patches.Putting waxoyl ontop of the rusted area will not cure it,just make it look like it has .
Hope this helps.



.
Cut it all out, go to a metal stockist and get yourself a sheet of 1.6mm steel and make a new boot floor from that.:D Oh yea you will need some new bolts for the rear seat belt mounts:D
 
Why make a mountain out of a mole hill?

1 sheet of 8' x 4' 1.6mm steel enough for boot floor, sills (inner and outer), repair foot wells, etc........

This is a disco we are talking about, they are very good at rotting.

Oh yea the steel only cost £35:p

May take a bit longer to do but worth it in the long run as it is thicker than replacement panels as well.
 
1 sheet of 8' x 4' 1.6mm steel enough for boot floor, sills (inner and outer), repair foot wells, etc........

This is a disco we are talking about, they are very good at rotting.

Oh yea the steel only cost £35:p

May take a bit longer to do but worth it in the long run as it is thicker than replacement panels as well.
By the time you get the sheet cut to size.Have swage lines put in ,let alone etch prime and paint.not forgetting punching holes for plug welding ,seam sealing etc you might just as well buy a replacement from Paddock etc for £50.A panel that size without swage or ribs has no strength in it whatsoever.What if the owner hasn't got the facility or equipment to do it himself.The piece of string gets longer by the minute.
If your'e going to do a job do it once and do it properly.But then again each to his own.
 
my old J reg disco had this problem, had a new floor pan fitted, painted ect. cost £260 a good few years ago. maybe an easy option? maybe not, but atleast i could stand up in the back again after that repair.
 
By the time you get the sheet cut to size.Have swage lines put in ,let alone etch prime and paint.not forgetting punching holes for plug welding ,seam sealing etc you might just as well buy a replacement from Paddock etc for £50.A panel that size without swage or ribs has no strength in it whatsoever.What if the owner hasn't got the facility or equipment to do it himself.The piece of string gets longer by the minute.
If your'e going to do a job do it once and do it properly.But then again each to his own.


As you say each to there own, I agree with if you havn't got the skill, facility or equipment to do the job in hand.

Mine has passed two mots since the work listed was done and still no sign of rust showing to me the sheet steel way is money well spent.
 
As you say each to there own, I agree with if you havn't got the skill, facility or equipment to do the job in hand.

Mine has passed two mots since the work listed was done and still no sign of rust showing to me the sheet steel way is money well spent.

I could't agree more for at the end of the day the MOT certificate is the main thing .
I even know of people that have just used a piece of 5mm ali tread plate,
but for the sake of 3 little patches covering an area of no more than a square foot in total I 'd have used the old phosphoric acid or indeed even a good old stone cleaner Cementone.A little trick I learned from someone in Porche trade.
Cheers
 
I could't agree more for at the end of the day the MOT certificate is the main thing .
I even know of people that have just used a piece of 5mm ali tread plate,
but for the sake of 3 little patches covering an area of no more than a square foot in total I 'd have used the old phosphoric acid or indeed even a good old stone cleaner Cementone.A little trick I learned from someone in Porche trade.
Cheers

Is this to kill the rust off?:confused:
 
providing it is only surface and not deeply embeded.(titanic comes to mind)
For as you well appreciate sanding etc does not penetrate dow into the metal.Rinse it off after and dry .The first time I heard about it I was a bit septical .so tried it on apiece of metal and it worked.But still prefer to use Jenolite.
 

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