Frosted
Active Member
I tried fitting door pillars today but the pre Dilled holes are in the wrong place!
Not only in the vertical, out by 5mm but also not tapered in going up.
I had to cut off the top hinge part and am going to have weld it back with the 5mm chopped off BUT I have to re bend the edges to allow for the tapering in.
Also the original bend positions did not componsate for the thickness of the sheet covering it at either side!
Has anyone had this problem?
Any ideas why the hinge holes don't line up?
I can't believe that the measurements are different between the defender models.
Thanks
Not only in the vertical, out by 5mm but also not tapered in going up.
I had to cut off the top hinge part and am going to have weld it back with the 5mm chopped off BUT I have to re bend the edges to allow for the tapering in.
Also the original bend positions did not componsate for the thickness of the sheet covering it at either side!
Has anyone had this problem?
Any ideas why the hinge holes don't line up?
I can't believe that the measurements are different between the defender models.
Thanks
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The Cat Sat On The Mat And Howled Horribly. That's how we remembered Trig. Started with a slide rule for a year as well! Then Texas Instruments brought out affordable calculators! Can't believe I am now of an age to come out with cr@p like that 
Anyway, cracking work. Love the self fabrication stuff, great skill and not just mathematical. VERY impressive. I think the YRM sections have a round and a square hole in cos they are built to fit ALL Defenders. Early ones didn't need any holes cos there was nothing to go in them. Late 200Tdi's and the 300Tdi had a round hole for the door switch to fit in. I know this because I'm rebuilding a 300 and have ended up with a 200 bulkhead and no hole to put my door switches in! I presume the square hole must be for a more updated door switch on later models.
I've no idea about galvanising over zintec, but YRM will. Email them, they are extremely helpful and lovely people.
As for the hinge holes, I don't think they have varied from model to model so they'll have to be pretty accurate. Are you using YRM door pillars?
Anyway, cracking work. Love the self fabrication stuff, great skill and not just mathematical. VERY impressive. I think the YRM sections have a round and a square hole in cos they are built to fit ALL Defenders. Early ones didn't need any holes cos there was nothing to go in them. Late 200Tdi's and the 300Tdi had a round hole for the door switch to fit in. I know this because I'm rebuilding a 300 and have ended up with a 200 bulkhead and no hole to put my door switches in!
I presume the square hole must be for a more updated door switch on later models.I've no idea about galvanising over zintec, but YRM will. Email them, they are extremely helpful and lovely people.
As for the hinge holes, I don't think they have varied from model to model so they'll have to be pretty accurate. Are you using YRM door pillars?
Just been doing a bit of interwebbing and coincidentally stumbled across this about welding door posts. http://www.markthewelder.co.uk/id49.html
Haven't looked through it, but it may be of some use to you.
Haven't looked through it, but it may be of some use to you.
Frosted
Active Member
No I didn't get YRM as I went for the cheaper set, wishing I had got YRM now but I guess its hard to know until you get a close up look.
All the repair panels seem to lack so much vital info on the page descriprions such as dimensions, thickness of sheet or even informative pics.
YRM give thickness but I would like to see more info like if they are tapered at the top and the dimensions between hinges.
Maybe I just have odd bulkhead, tempted to dig out the doors to check measurements.
Had a look over that welders pics, he isn't doing the top hinge part of the pillar just the lower part but an interesting read all the same.
No rain till this afternoon so will get on and see if I get 1 pillar done today!
All the repair panels seem to lack so much vital info on the page descriprions such as dimensions, thickness of sheet or even informative pics.
YRM give thickness but I would like to see more info like if they are tapered at the top and the dimensions between hinges.
Maybe I just have odd bulkhead, tempted to dig out the doors to check measurements.
Had a look over that welders pics, he isn't doing the top hinge part of the pillar just the lower part but an interesting read all the same.
No rain till this afternoon so will get on and see if I get 1 pillar done today!
Frosted
Active Member
Got the upper hinge in the right place and tapered in, welded back on door pillar.
Rain started so decided to cut away more layers to reveal rusted windscreen strengthers.
Some pics taken through the day..
Laying out the measurements.
Bend correctly
Welded on
Connected to jig
Peeling away layers, yikes!
Polish with twisted brush on grinder, shows where rusted through, actually I was expecting worse!
Can remake by doing one plane at a time and welding together.
First section ready for welding tomorrow...
Rain started so decided to cut away more layers to reveal rusted windscreen strengthers.
Some pics taken through the day..
Laying out the measurements.
Bend correctly
Welded on
Connected to jig
Peeling away layers, yikes!
Polish with twisted brush on grinder, shows where rusted through, actually I was expecting worse!
Can remake by doing one plane at a time and welding together.
First section ready for welding tomorrow...
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Frosted
Active Member
After sleeping on it I decided that as strengtheners are kinda structural I should plug weld the new to the original as much as possible.
So with my new found GCSE maths in hand I set about making template based on the measurement's.
Using toa came up with a cardboard template, it fitted quite well so then layed out onto 2mm sheet.
I think original is about 1.6mm anyway here are some pics/
See the tabs to go under the original for plug welding.
At the bottom on the front is some other metal coming across so I can't joggle it under butt weld should do as it has the strength.
Joggling the 2mm is always fun using a blunt bolster going to have to do some more work on that in morning as the bend across ain't helping!
Next job to work out how to fabricate the vent edges I think lots of shrinking and stretching with a hammer..
So with my new found GCSE maths in hand I set about making template based on the measurement's.
Using toa came up with a cardboard template, it fitted quite well so then layed out onto 2mm sheet.
I think original is about 1.6mm anyway here are some pics/
See the tabs to go under the original for plug welding.
At the bottom on the front is some other metal coming across so I can't joggle it under butt weld should do as it has the strength.
Joggling the 2mm is always fun using a blunt bolster going to have to do some more work on that in morning as the bend across ain't helping!
Next job to work out how to fabricate the vent edges I think lots of shrinking and stretching with a hammer..
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Frosted
Active Member
Dont be scared just do it BECAUSE how ever much you measure it will be wrong!
I dont have the Photos from the last repair on the RHS but here is what I started today after 1.5 years of no contact!
Just make sure your lengths on outside of folded metal is longer than you need!
if you make more than one fold then make sure all outside lengths are more?
That's all I have, apart from don't be scared! Here are some pics...
I dont have the Photos from the last repair on the RHS but here is what I started today after 1.5 years of no contact!
Just make sure your lengths on outside of folded metal is longer than you need!
if you make more than one fold then make sure all outside lengths are more?
That's all I have, apart from don't be scared! Here are some pics...
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Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
They weren't water tight when new !
Frosted
Active Member
After trying to welt the in the strengthener last week it just didn't fit nice was to thin. So I cut the existing back down to where 3 layers of existing steel sheet where and straightened out the join. I made a new piece today with thicker sheet and used some extra steel flat bar to strengthen the butt weld, where the 3 existing layers meet. Should be super strong now!
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