G

guineafowl21

Well-Known Member
What's the best stuff to put on the chassis?
Dinitrol?
Waxoyl?

What if there's bubbly rust there? Take back to metal then -
Prime with what?
Coat with what?

I've tried waxoyl but some seems to be flaking off in the cold. I need something more tar-like. I have a compressor and proper underbody/cavity injection sprayer.
 
in my experience, dinitrol is better, but is more expensive, and the cost benefit analysis 'tween waxoyl and dinitrol means I use waxoyl, and apply more often. There are quite a few different types of dinitrol too, have a nosy on the web, or search on here for what other folk use in any given area.

Best rust treatment I know of is Fertan - it can be used more or less anywhere, and actually needs water to make it work, which makes it super suitable for the UK climate :D. Get rid of the loose rust first, and then IIRC, apply, allow to cure, and repeat until the treated area is rust free and shiny blue/black... rinse any excess off with water, and paint. proper instructions are on the bottle. about £25 ish for a litre, and two litres ish, should do a D1 quite nicely

I tend to use rustins primer, and tractol enamel paint on top of the fertan - then waxoyl on top of this - I use the "clear" so I can see if any rust comes back.....
 
I use waxoyle, originally sprayed it on years ago, then go under every other year and paint it on. Get rid of rust first. If you want to make it go a bit further and your spraying, mix some old engine oil in. Don't forget the goggles and breather mask. Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
I use waxoyle, originally sprayed it on years ago, then go under every other year and paint it on. Get rid of rust first. If you want to make it go a bit further and your spraying, mix some old engine oil in. Don't forget the goggles and breather mask. Mike
Click to expand...
Cheers Mike. Your sump oil trick might make the waxoyl a little less flaky too.

What I really need is a way to mass-produce that sticky crap inside the manifold of an EGR-equipped Td4. That stuff will NOT come off!
 
Search for dynax s-50. even better than Dinitrol, and there's uni study about lots of different waxes where the bilt hamber s-50 comes out on top. Don't use waxoyl for gods sake! :)
 
There is nothing wrong with using waxoyle, so long as you follow the guidelines. Remove rust and crud, apply to a DRY surface. It's great at keeping moisture and crud off, but also fantastic at keeping it in if you don't apply it correctly. Other products such as dinitrol are excellent, but more expensive. As always it comes down to budget and personal choice. Mike
 
On my mini I've got lots of peeling waxoyl that has gone rubbery and creates a lovely additional water trap - as if a mini needs any more - so I think I'll stick with using something that doesn't introduce extra problems thanks! :)
 
Saltlick said:
On my mini I've got lots of peeling waxoyl that has gone rubbery and creates a lovely additional water trap - as if a mini needs any more - so I think I'll stick with using something that doesn't introduce extra problems thanks! :)
Click to expand...

That's weird. Out of interest, how old is your mini? - presuming its a classic original one ?

I have seen waxoyl with issues on modern hydro formed steel*, but I am surprised its doing that on "proper" steel... and when I say issues, the "steel" has more issues than any coating on it, and is just falling to bits - so NOT a criticism of waxoyl.

What are you using instead?

* my opinion of this carp is not repeatable.
 
Last edited:
Yes, I have had the same problem with Waxoyl flaking away. As far as I can see, Dinitrol has better rust inhibitors. As long as the underbody wax is more sticky I think I'll use it instead.

I'll look into Dynax - thanks Saltlick.
 
My mini is an 89 - you know, a proper one not the german crap that is raping our motoring heritage. ...not that I have an opinion! :D

I use Dynax S-50 and UB - both by bilt hamber who are a brit company. Search LZ for 'dynax salt spray test' and I'm sure you'll stumble over the link somewhere, I know I've posted it a few times..
 
guineafowl21 said:
Yes, I have had the same problem with Waxoyl flaking away. As far as I can see, Dinitrol has better rust inhibitors. As long as the underbody wax is more sticky I think I'll use it instead.

I'll look into Dynax - thanks Saltlick.
Click to expand...
And dinitrol is very good, but I've found the BH dynax stuff to be even better, plus it's a far less confusing range!
 
Saltlick said:
And dinitrol is very good, but I've found the BH dynax stuff to be even better, plus it's a far less confusing range!
Click to expand...
Will do a search - I see what you mean about the Dinitrol 4235235 this and 33543463 that. It's like the f@cking collection of lubricants and polishing agents the wife has in our shower. You can't turn round without knocking half of them over.

Hey - just noticed you're from my home town! Hope you in't too flooded there, boy.
 
Spot on GF :)
I've not tried the hydrate 80, though I've heard good things about it, as well as a couple of less good reviews, so I'm not sure on it until I've tried it.
I found the aerosol cans last really well too, just make sure you clear the nozzle when you're done or it means a lot of faff to clean it up next time. If you buy it direct you can get it quite cheap.

And yes, taunton has had a fair bit of rain recently - I'm up on the hills and still had a flood outside my house from all the run off coming down the road and from the fields!

Forgot to say, much the same as any other underside protection, make sure your work area is either covered up or it doesn't matter if it gets splattered!
 
Saltlick said:
Spot on GF :)
I've not tried the hydrate 80, though I've heard good things about it, as well as a couple of less good reviews, so I'm not sure on it until I've tried it.
I found the aerosol cans last really well too, just make sure you clear the nozzle when you're done or it means a lot of faff to clean it up next time. If you buy it direct you can get it quite cheap.

And yes, taunton has had a fair bit of rain recently - I'm up on the hills and still had a flood outside my house from all the run off coming down the road and from the fields!

Forgot to say, much the same as any other underside protection, make sure your work area is either covered up or it doesn't matter if it gets splattered!
Click to expand...
Yes, my parents are in Crowcombe, but we used to live in a little village called Combe Florey, just at the foot of the Quantocks. Plenty of road floods there, and plenty of eejits hydrolocking their cars when their underbody air intakes took in water under a rail bridge. Thank goodness for Land Rovers.

Last time I Waxoyled the car I got covered in ****e and so did the spaniel, who likes to come under the car with me and lick my face when I can't move away. That day, we rustproofed the car AND the kitchen!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
What money should I be asking?
2
Replies
27
Views
4K
Karls
K
MiddleAgedDirtBag
Chassis/underpinnings rust treatment
Replies
6
Views
1K
steve2286w
steve2286w
I
Rust-proof fuel tank defender 90
Replies
3
Views
2K
nobber
nobber
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Is it worth using a rust convertor?
Replies
10
Views
3K
Saltlick
Saltlick
M
Chassis rust proofing
Replies
4
Views
2K
davcud
davcud