P.S. (just for a laugh.)
When I was running my kit car club I had one bloke, a teacher (from another school) I am sad to say, who joined the club.
He borrowed my brake flaring kit, (tight git) did his brakes, returned the kit, then never saw him again!
Some people! Almost wish his brakes failed! (No, not really!!):D:D:D
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Lots of it but not at all impossible if doing it yourself. The great thing about kunifer is you don't need a pipe bender to put the bends in, you can do it by hand. Plus the big advantage that it ain't going to rust away!

I think people are scared of it cos it's brakes. but at the end of the day, provided you take sensible care it is difficult to make a mess of it and it is easy to test. Just stand on the brakes and get someone else to look for leaks, just as an MOT tester would do. If you're worried about doing the flares, just cut a bit of pipe off and practise. No sweat!
Hope OP has enough info to go for it now.:):):):)
Click to expand...

hi buddy

indeed, when I done mine I just took my time and slowly plodded through it , was pleased with the flaring tool

Know u don’t always have to, but did use a mini pipe bender for some of the offsets as they were quite tight that I also useto use it on boiler oil lines

Plus of course also have to be careful not emptying the ABS module as it can then mean having to use diagnostics

me being sad I even bought stainless steel bolts to replace the old one s

45BA3643-CEBA-4940-8529-1B021CEBBDD1.jpeg
F037CDE6-B1E3-4BDD-AC09-9BBF2B40ACB0.jpeg
2976DA97-7B70-4DBF-A972-B192C0D2A8AA.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
hi buddy

indeed, when I done mine I just took my time and slowly plodded through it , was pleased with the flaring tool

Know u don’t always have to, but did use a mini pipe bender for some of the offsets as they were quite tight that I also useto use it on boiler oil lines

Plus of course also have to be careful not emptying the ABS module as it can then mean having to use diagnostics

me being sad I even bought stainless steel bolts to replace the old one s

View attachment 199918 View attachment 199919 View attachment 199920
Click to expand...
Just being a bit tight about the pipe bender. Never really needed to do tight ones, mini-benders as you rightly say ain't expensive and I think it may be possible to get one in a flaring kit, along with the special grease stuff that I forgot to mention!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Just being a bit tight about the pipe bender. Never really needed to do tight ones, mini-benders as you rightly say ain't expensive and I think it may be possible to get one in a flaring kit, along with the special grease stuff that I forgot to mention!
Click to expand...

lol, just had the mini benders for when I done heating , there were some modules etc in the way so just done a few tweaks here and there and all came right

Ah yes the small pot of grease that comes with the flaring tool , don’t know what grease is in that small tub , looks like a general run of the mill
 
gstuart said:
lol, just had the mini benders for when I done heating , there were some modules etc in the way so just done a few tweaks here and there and all came right

Ah yes the small pot of grease that comes with the flaring tool , don’t know what grease is in that small tub , just looks like a general run of the mill
Click to expand...
It's a while since I last did this but I seem to remember it was red and in a tiny little tube, but still enough to do the brakes on a whole car and then a bit, but none of that snowflaky, ABS stuff!;););););):):):):):)
 
Thanks guys, I think I may be doing it myself as the new price came in at over a days money, £500.00, thank you for the pictures that is a real help at least I know where they go. I also think it may be worth replacing the flex pipes as well as there is a great deal of rust around each and they may not come off easily. Keep you all posted.
 
Lotus owner said:
Hi,
I have an MOT due this month and I know that I need to replace the rear brake pipes, they look complication and I have one quote of £300, surely not!
will look at other providers.
Click to expand...

People normally join them to the existing pipes under the car above the heatshield passenger side.
You will need one of them handheld flaring tools off of ebay for under 40 quid.

Edit just read rest of thread!
 
gstuart said:
hi buddy

indeed, when I done mine I just took my time and slowly plodded through it , was pleased with the flaring tool

Know u don’t always have to, but did use a mini pipe bender for some of the offsets as they were quite tight that I also useto use it on boiler oil lines

Plus of course also have to be careful not emptying the ABS module as it can then mean having to use diagnostics

me being sad I even bought stainless steel bolts to replace the old one s

View attachment 199918 View attachment 199919 View attachment 199920
Click to expand...

Flexes need doing on my D3 and the rear backplates, cant wait!
 
Lotus owner said:
Thanks guys, I think I may be doing it myself as the new price came in at over a days money, £500.00, thank you for the pictures that is a real help at least I know where they go. I also think it may be worth replacing the flex pipes as well as there is a great deal of rust around each and they may not come off easily. Keep you all posted.
Click to expand...

500 quid! plenty of people expect whole cars for that money.
 
lynall said:
Flexes need doing on my D3 and the rear backplates, cant wait!
Click to expand...

lol, found using a dremel was ideal getting the old brake pipes out , has a right angle head with those zip discs , then of course had to cut the brake pipe where it joined to the flex because the whole thing was twisting,

also used the dremel to zip off the drop links

indeed used one of those handheld flaring tools and worked a treat , used the 4.75 din size as I also have the sae type for when I done the freelander brake pipes

bought the small intermittent ridged brake pipes to make life easier and think they was under £10

still got the fronts to do, trouble is me trying to get the wheels off

haven’t had the pleasure of backplate , YET, did notice they had been removed on the front
 
Lotus owner said:
Thanks guys, I think I may be doing it myself as the new price came in at over a days money, £500.00, thank you for the pictures that is a real help at least I know where they go. I also think it may be worth replacing the flex pipes as well as there is a great deal of rust around each and they may not come off easily. Keep you all posted.
Click to expand...

hi

plus one, also the brake pipe size for a flaring tools is 4.75 Din , also be careful not to allow ur abs module to empty or ur need diagnostics to bleed it

Need new brake hose clips

if u get stuck plse always feel free to give any one of us a shout

FF345F4E-9E84-4EC6-9762-FFADF7B08E75.jpeg
 
Had much the same problem earlier this week.
Disconnected the battery, which is good by the way, to do some electrical work on my Disco 3.
Had the Suspension, ABS and traction control warning lights on plus the suspension dropped to access heigh and the ABS kicked in on it's own accord as I started to drive off the driveway.
Read and cleared a host of faults and it happened yet again.
The only system I hadn't read was the SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) and to my surprise it had, with the wheels straight ahead, a reading of 359.5 degrees instead of around 0 degrees. Reset it and everything worked perfectly.
Took it for a drive along a straight stretch of road, pulled in and reset from 1.0 degree to Zero degrees.
The system obviously threw a wobbler after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery-it was disconnected for almost 24 hours.
After owning a P38 for many years, I have learned that LR systems can, and do wonderful things after either a flat or disconnected battery :eek: although the Disco 3 is more reliable, don't take it for granted !! ;)
 
gstuart said:
lol, found using a dremel was ideal getting the old brake pipes out , has a right angle head with those zip discs , then of course had to cut the brake pipe where it joined to the flex because the whole thing was twisting,

also used the dremel to zip off the drop links

indeed used one of those handheld flaring tools and worked a treat , used the 4.75 din size as I also have the sae type for when I done the freelander brake pipes

bought the small intermittent ridged brake pipes to make life easier and think they was under £10

still got the fronts to do, trouble is me trying to get the wheels off

haven’t had the pleasure of backplate , YET, did notice they had been removed on the front
Click to expand...



4.74 mm is metric equivelant of the old imperial 3/16 size, nothing has changed just the numbers:D
Early unions were 3/8 thread and new stuff 10mm thread.

Front backplates do nowt apart from shield the discs from crap, rears on the other hand have the handbrake shoes mounted to them and are one piece mounted BEHIND the bloody wheel bearing!
Dear as well, 70 quid each side.
Apparently some range rovers have two piece backplates and can be slipped in by loosening the bolts?
 
lynall said:
4.74 mm is metric equivelant of the old imperial 3/16 size, nothing has changed just the numbers:D
Early unions were 3/8 thread and new stuff 10mm thread.

Front backplates do nowt apart from shield the discs from crap, rears on the other hand have the handbrake shoes mounted to them and are one piece mounted BEHIND the bloody wheel bearing!
Dear as well, 70 quid each side.
Apparently some range rovers have two piece backplates and can be slipped in by loosening the bolts?
Click to expand...

indeed and didn’t realise that at first ref the sae and din, but for some reason the din done better flares on the d3 pipes , came out a treat which I was really surprised , found the flaring tool really handy

never thought about that ref the back plates and as u say regarding the handbrake shoes

what having backplates in halves for the D3, wouldn’t that be a joy , lol

ref the backplates , have seen them for £25 each

here u go

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/l...3-discovery-4-range-rover-sport-1336675-p.asp

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/l...3-discovery-4-range-rover-sport-1336678-p.asp

hope that helps
 
gstuart said:
indeed and didn’t realise that at first ref the sae and din, but for some reason the din done better flares on the d3 pipes , came out a treat which I was really surprised , found the flaring tool really handy

never thought about that ref the back plates and as u say regarding the handbrake shoes

what having backplates in halves for the D3, wouldn’t that be a joy , lol

ref the backplates , have seen them for £25 each

here u go

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/l...3-discovery-4-range-rover-sport-1336675-p.asp

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/l...3-discovery-4-range-rover-sport-1336678-p.asp

hope that helps
Click to expand...

Even cheaper on ebay.
Tbh htink I will stick with genuine with something like that, it is going to be an arse to fit and I dont want to have to redo it, britpart of old has scarred me!
 
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