popotla

Active Member
What road speeds, for each gear, should I use for running-in, and for what mileage? I've heard "don't exceed 3000 rpm", but am new to diesel engines and don't know what this means in real terms (no tacho, on my model, obviously; LR have put a clock (???) rather than something useful).

The handbook says nothing specific about speeds through the gears. Though common sense may be a fairly useful guide here, I don't want to mess up, so would like as much info as possible -maybe advice other than road speeds, too - about how to properly run in this vehicle.

Thanks
 
GET IT CHIPPED BEFORE YOU START!!!!!!!!
The defender TD5 takes a bit of getting use to as the strange power or when it comes in & you allways seem to be flogging it. I tend to set of in 1st like many do but then change into 2nd with out reving much in 1st being gentle in 2nd then changing into 3rd & opening it up but i go through 30mph villages in 5th at 30mph as the TD5 has the torque & power & you dont need to flog the engine. I some times set of in 2nd now it has been chipped as 1st is a little low with out reving the engine. You will have to get use to the power with out flogging it.
 
Let's assume you're in high range. for me, personally i don't have an RPM meter either. However, just by listening, you can tell. but dont be deceived by the sound. the engine is revving pretty little.

1 - 0km to abt 25km - optimal switch up at 15km
2 - 0km to abt 40km - optimal switch up at 25km
3 - 20km to 60km - optimal switch up at 50km
4 - 40km to 80km - optimal switch up at 70km
5 - 60km to 140km
 
Common sense I think really.

- Don't floor it too much
- Build up speed gently
- Don't over rev the engine
 
a few years back an engineer from lotus told me that running in was a thing of the past. a throw back to the days when engineering standards wint quite what they are today. his reasoning being that with todays machines and cad etc.. they can machine parts to a much closer fit than they could 20 or 30 years ago.
the only reason running in was needed was to 'wear' the parts to fit. as they are now machined to much closer tolerances they dunt need running in.
and to back up his theory i had a brand new vauxhall which i drove as normal from day one. five years later and the best part of 100,000 miles later it wur still going strong
 
Just gone past the 4000 mile mark in my 110 td5 and all is great, I did as the manual said which is under 50mph for the first 500 miles and speed up gradually after that. Just don't use lots of throttle or accelerate hard etc...Warm it up while driving and let the engine run for 10 seconds before turning off (to let turbo oil cool down apparently ;) ). Sounds strange but you can feel everything free up as the miles get put on.
 
There is a school of thought that youshould thrash a new engine from as new as possible, somthing to do with helping the various rings and stuff seat properly by exposing them to high pressures and temperatures from the get-go. Other moving parts in engine are machined to such high tolerances now that running in isn;t necessary. I believe this gives you better performance in terms of BHP, but I'm not sure it helps with longevity.

I'll try it with a bike and let y'all know ...
 

Similar threads