ANR

Active Member
Being the new owner of my first Land Rover (Discovery 2, TD5, 2003), I am struggling to find where the best place to buy parts is. With my other car (a Fiat), I used to use Eurocarparts, but these don't seem to have much for the Land Rover. Can someone advise please?
I also have a specific question:
The running boards on my vehicle are very rusted and coming apart. I was initially looking to replace them but after searching in vain for where to buy them from I began thinking of taking them off and leaving them off. I then saw a few Discovery 2's being driven around without running boards. So, I'm thinking of doing the latter. One thing puzzles me:
The front mud flaps are moulded to fit and screw into the running board. Where would I buy alternative mud flaps and how would I fix them on when the running board is removed?
Thanks,
Andrew
 
Depends what you're looking for parts wise really. The beauty of land Rover's is there's a big pool of parts and suppliers. Ebay is actually a good place for some parts, but you've also got John Craddock Ltd
www.johncraddockltd.co.uk

If you're looking at replacing your bumpers, rock slider and even chassis (or half or rear quarter chassis), then look up Dixon Fabrication. They're parts a VERY good quality and look really good on too. They have a facebook page too, and the owner, Ian Dixon, is active on the different Landy pages , so is pretty knowledgeable.

https://dixonfabrication.co.uk/


I took my running boards off, more because of the extra clearance for green laning/P&P. The mud guards are still fitted, as they aren't actually part of the running boards or mouldings (well, not on my 2001 D2 anyway).
I prefer the look without the running boards, although a decent set of rock sliders do look good, and serve a good purpose. If you're not taking your D2 laning or on pay and play events, rock sliders will at least protect your pride and joy from those careless ****s that seem to think its ok to bash other peoples cars with the doors in car parks.

One think I will add, if you're looking at getting in to green laning, and your D2 is standard, a decent set of all terrain tyres, and maybe some under body protection (dif guards, steering guard, transmission guard and a fuel tank guard) is where you want to start. Maybe also a snorkel (or raised air intake). The D2 is a pretty capable vehicle even in standard form. I was told to take it all a step at a time, do the bits i suggested, then once you start using it off the tarmac, you'll soon see what you may need to do in the future. But my D2 has never been lifted, but has gone everywhere my mates in the lifted defenders have been without any problems. One other mod, if you do like green laning and plan on going out regularly, always go in a group (or at least one other vehicle), get into a decent club or group who practice responsible green laning, but definitely treat your truck to a cb radio. These are invaluable when out with a group. It makes it so much easier relaying info about any hazards or just banter throughout your day.

The main thing though, enjoy your Landy. They can prove costly!!! Mine has been one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned, but once you start buying mods for it, you'll want to keep going.
 
Oh....and another extremely valuable bit of kit......get yourself a Nanocom Evo. I'm still to get one (although I have a mate with one), but probably the best diagnostics tool for a Landy.
 
Big suppliers of parts are Paddocks in Buxton.
Go and buy some Landrover magazines with lots of parts suppliers in the pages.
Also a Haynes manual .Plenty of help on here and at the Disco2boys club forum.
 
Thanks for all the comments.
I obtained the Haynes manual straight away and I'm working through it. Apart from the immobiliser being a nuisance, I like the vehicle so far and its done a good long trip with no bother. There is not as much space for working on the engine as I'd have expected, but at least I can get underneath without jacking up.
If I may ask another question? Forgive my ignorance though:
I've been looking to buy a drive belt as a back up. I see that there are different version depending on whether the vehicle has air conditioning and ACE. I've just investigated to see whether mine has one or both of these. Can someone advise on the following:
1. The manual says that for ACE there should be a light on the dashboard showing a car with two arrows coming out on both sides. My vehicle doesn't have this when I turn on the ignition. It also doesn't have two caps on the brake fluid reservoir. Do I assume that I don't have ACE?
2. The is only a manual air circulation and temperature control on the dashboard (no electronic display), so do I assume that I don't have air conditioning?
 
If you have ACE you have two sections inside the power steering reservoir.
Under both back and front, look at each end of the anti-roll bar, if you have ACE you will see a hydraulic ram connected to one end, the offside at the rear, dunno about the front. You will also have a hydraulic box of tricks under the bonnet, another under the offside attached to the chassi rail, etc etc, here is the diagram from the RAVE manual which is more informative than Haynes.

upload_2020-8-5_15-15-33.jpeg

try these, not all will work but you should be able to download RAVE from one of them.
(Just click on "télécharger" I'm in France at the mo, but it'll come up in English)

http://www.landroverresource.com/rave.zip

http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/


For part numbers

The easyest seems to be the online version http://new.lrcat.com/ but if you want to print out here's the PDF of the book https://rimmerbros.com/images/pdfs/discovery2.pdf , a version without engine overhaul parts attached

http://www.modifiedlife.com/1996-land-rover-discovery-car-stereo-wiring-guide/


Parts list

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35470/35580/2694

Suppliers of D2 parts

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/disco2parts.html
All the best
Stan
 
Thanks for all the comments.
I obtained the Haynes manual straight away and I'm working through it. Apart from the immobiliser being a nuisance, I like the vehicle so far and its done a good long trip with no bother. There is not as much space for working on the engine as I'd have expected, but at least I can get underneath without jacking up.
If I may ask another question? Forgive my ignorance though:
I've been looking to buy a drive belt as a back up. I see that there are different version depending on whether the vehicle has air conditioning and ACE. I've just investigated to see whether mine has one or both of these. Can someone advise on the following:
1. The manual says that for ACE there should be a light on the dashboard showing a car with two arrows coming out on both sides. My vehicle doesn't have this when I turn on the ignition. It also doesn't have two caps on the brake fluid reservoir. Do I assume that I don't have ACE?
2. The is only a manual air circulation and temperature control on the dashboard (no electronic display), so do I assume that I don't have air conditioning?
Air con is a button with a snowflake icon on it, next to air circulation. No button, no aircon.
The light on the dash you mention sounds like the right one(I never look, but I think I know what you mean, IIRC the two arrows are curved downwards) If you don't have one it means you either have conventional antiroll bars OR someone has taken the system off and disconnected the light.
If you have neither it is a lot less to go wrong. Mine has ACE, it's interesting but I have never felt it to be any better than the gas shocks I fitted to my D1 to counter the body roll. But others think it is the best thing since sliced bread UNTIL it goes wrong! Connecting pipes to the valve block are just one nightmare!

PS, like you I alway have a spare serpentine belt just in case!:):):):):)
 
Thanks for all the advice.
In terms of 'parts suppliers', no-one mentioned JGS4x4, and I wish that I had listened to the recommendations. I just ordered two ride height sensors from JGS4x4 which were described as a quality part. They were missing both the two bolts needed to fix the main block to the chassis bracket and there was no specification sheet to describe what length or thread type was required. They also didn't come with the larger bolt to fix the arm (though I'm not bothered about this as I can use any suitable bolt. They were also made in China and the quality of the plastic was very poor.
The JGS4x4 website allows reviews, and I typed a negative review to warn other customers, but they haven't published it! Looking at their site, all the reviews for all their products are 5 stars!!!
My advice: don't buy from JGS4x4
 
Well, is it possible that you didn’t order the two bolts listed as separate parts, I assume bolts 12 & 13 shown in the link below.
For the item it’s self you got what u ask for, a quality but patten part and usually cheapest, u could have asked for original manufacturer equipment which will be better and of course u could have gone for Land Rover genuine parts.

I have used JGS4x4 in the past without any issues, and aways pleased with their service, but then I only use parts with a brand and where possible a LR part number reference :)
 
Well I'm new to, what is a whole new and bizarre world of Land Rover parts. When I have bought parts previously for my Fiat from Eurocarparts it has been very simple and the parts are good quality (usually European made). This whole landscape with Land Rover, the different parts, not being able to buy them locally, some cheap and Chinese, triple the cost for Land Rover parts, is amazing to me.
With regard to the two small bolts, it is ridiculous that these are not included since the part cannot be fitted without them, moreover at the least there should be an explanation of what size and thread type is compatible. Whoever fitted my last ride height sensors had used some cement to fix in the bolts because the female parts of the thread (on the sensor) had split, and so the bolts that I removed could not be re-used.
A good way of judging an online sales company is whether they censor and selectively report the feedback. I won't be buying from JGS4x4 again.
 
On the subject of running boards and mud flaps (probably shouldn't have mixed two questions in one post):
I've seen a few Discovery 2's driving around without running boards and they appear to have mud flaps fixed about ca. 1ft back from the front wheel. As previously mentioned, my mud flaps come moulded with an entry point for the running board and so when the running board is removed they will look daft and probably flap around.
I've peered under parked Discovery 2's without running boards and seen that some front mud flaps appear to be fixed to the bracket that once held the running board, while others seem to have an extension bolted on to the front wheel arch.
...and I've searched for mud flaps on parts websites and there appears to be no consistent design.
So, has anyone removed the running board of a Disc 2 and replaced the front mudflaps? If so, how did you do it? Was there a kit to buy, or did you just have to do your own fabrication?
Thanks,
Andrew
 

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