davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Make sure your handbrake isn't binding first. Lift both back wheel and make sure they spin freely. It can make a huge difference to the one wheel result.
SamA90
Member
SamA90
Member
I've just ordered my two new tyres for the back (so will now have all new tyres, hurrah!). Having given them a little closer inspection, I noticed the front tyres had a different load rating to the ones on the rear...would that cause conflicted rolling?
p.s. the new tyres ARE the same load rating!
p.s. the new tyres ARE the same load rating!
Yes that can cause an issue as they'll deflect less or more depending if higher/lower
SamA90
Member
A little update on the situation.
New rear tyres have made a BIG difference. Everything is quieter.
But still have a little rumble. So I got the hump and took it to a mate who runs a garage (why I didn't I do this in the first place, I hear you ask? I like having a go first. Then if I fudge it up, I'll hand over to someone with some brains)
He reckons the rumble is coming from the props...my new props...that I got from eBay (shame on me). They'll be the next thing coming off and sending back!
New rear tyres have made a BIG difference. Everything is quieter.
But still have a little rumble. So I got the hump and took it to a mate who runs a garage (why I didn't I do this in the first place, I hear you ask? I like having a go first. Then if I fudge it up, I'll hand over to someone with some brains)
He reckons the rumble is coming from the props...my new props...that I got from eBay (shame on me). They'll be the next thing coming off and sending back!
Speckydude
Well-Known Member
Had some XCLs once, little singing Bibendums.
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Just a suggestion but take the prop off and rotate it before putting it back so it is in a different orientation to the diff/IRD.
This might well change the balance of the prop and make it better (or worse!).
Easier to try than sending a prop!
This might well change the balance of the prop and make it better (or worse!).
Easier to try than sending a prop!
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
Just saying that I'm sure I read somewhere that the prop should be marked when removing it to make sure it goes back on in the same orientation. Some people poo-pooed this but some agreed.
Though I am getting older and prone to hallucination
Though I am getting older and prone to hallucination
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
BOSH! From RAVE:
"Reference mark the position of propeller shaft flanges to IRD and rear axle flanges to aid reassembly."
"Reference mark the position of propeller shaft flanges to IRD and rear axle flanges to aid reassembly."
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it makes no difference ,what would you do if you fitted anotherJust saying that I'm sure I read somewhere that the prop should be marked when removing it to make sure it goes back on in the same orientation. Some people poo-pooed this but some agreed.
Though I am getting older and prone to hallucination
davidsmith1307
Well-Known Member
The OP is fitting another and I agree it shouldn't make a difference.
But RAVE suggests it might so it has to be worth a sneaky try compared to the hassle of sending a propshaft back don't you think?
I can clutch at straws with the best of them. I'll leave the 'years of experience' stuff to you @jamesmartin.
But RAVE suggests it might so it has to be worth a sneaky try compared to the hassle of sending a propshaft back don't you think?
I can clutch at straws with the best of them. I'll leave the 'years of experience' stuff to you @jamesmartin.
SamA90
Member
It's worth a shot. Could misalignment cause wobbly problems do you think? Gonna have a good fiddle on Saturday before sending it back
There was some discussion on a thread before...
Freelander Propshaft Assembly
There was some discussion on a thread before...
Freelander Propshaft Assembly
SamA90
Member
ALSO! When I got my new props, the UJ's were very floppy/loose. Should they be floppy? Or stiff
The reason I ask, is I originally got a Britpart prop. When I realised I needed both props replacing, I got my money back and bought two cheaper ones.
The Britpart Prop UJ was pretty stiff. The cheap ones were far from stiff...does that mean anything?
The reason I ask, is I originally got a Britpart prop. When I realised I needed both props replacing, I got my money back and bought two cheaper ones.
The Britpart Prop UJ was pretty stiff. The cheap ones were far from stiff...does that mean anything?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
We've had several peeps come on ere with high speed vibrations (40+) which they can't fix. When advised to take the prop oft and reconnect, or take oft and turn it, this has cleared the vibrations. You only need a slight different in the mating face to get a rumble. Luckily not many have this problem.
Years ago we would always tell peeps to mark the props/vcu as putting it back the same way it came oft ruled out the above. Peeps would then argue it doesn't need marked etc as the props turn differently due to the vcu. But we have found occasional problems which clear after disconnecting/reconnecting a prop. As if the mating face isn't centrally aligned on the rear diff or pinion connection. Mad I know but I've had it myself anorl.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
id say more wanting it to feel better rather than actual, unless of course it was fitted poorly the first time, the props do turn through the vcu its a fact
Hippo
Lord Hippo
They're not poorly fitted. The rear prop connects to the rear diff with 4 bolts. The front porp connects to the pinion with 6 bolts. Each bolt hole has a slight tollerence or you'd never get the bolt through the hole. It's only out by a slight amount, but enough to only show at high speed when a spinning force is greater. An eggsample:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vibrating-through-seat.273888/
and the result:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/update-vibrating-through-seat.274717/
We're not saying it fixes all rumbles, just some of them where every other option has been tried and the rumble is only at high speed.
