DC_

DC_

New Member
So..........................now i have taken the rangie for a test drive. It runs great when it's cold, but then when it's heated up, it cuts out.
Soon as you slow down to deal with a junction it cuts out.
Then after turning it several times it kicks in and revs up to around 2500rpm. Then after a few seconds (5 or so) it settles then cuts out again.

Any thoughts?
I unplugged the engine coolant sensor and it got me back home with it off, but then as i was slowing again for junctions, it continued to cut out.I have very recently stripped the dizzy and reset the springs and bob weights as they had come loose.Timing was checked with TDC and rotor arm was in correct postion. To be honest i only know this stuff as i've learned as i have gone, so if you have any thoughts please keep them simple (not too clued up on these matters)


Help needed again

DC
 
dc if did ye find out wat this probl;em was mines doin exactley the same with herty bills wevery time it goers for somethink diff to be checked need helphere asap cheers
 
Ok, so far i have replaced the dizzy cap and put on a GENUINE one. Waiting for a GENUINE rotor arm to pop through the door as i have been advised that others have spent over £600 on this kind of problem only to discover that it was the cap or rotor arm.
I have also replaced the coil as it was an intermotor one and also been advised that these are KEEK!!

So......................i have now replaced the CTS Coolant Temp Sensor.
This seems to have made a difference as i ran it (idle) for 30 - 40 mins and it never cut out or got rough.
So if i take it for a test drive tomorrow hopefully, i'll see if i need to order an ignition amp (and adaptor).

Another thing to make sure is ok, check all air pipes with a fine tooth comb as if it's getting "free" air it'll make a diff to the mixture.

Take off the hose to plenum chamber and go over it.

Let me know how it goes

DC

p.s. what the heck does that first reply say? LOL
 
fella am bevvied in mine depressed about me lump on the drive lol basically am getting hefty bills for siolly work bieng carried out all hose to air plenum have bin changed fuel filter next on monday as for ignition coil though unsure of the brand ive got car had full service recently with leads plugs dizzy but will check all hoses tom for cracks or wear as it ****ing me of now only when its bin run warm garages cant find a thing wrong when it turns up as it runs perfect by 3 dealers they say wanna try drivin it lol will keep you infromed m8 hope you do the same need this problem putting in the waste bin for good
 
classicmac said:
cheers for this timo only one giving us ideas lol
Click to expand...

I had my own troubles when I used to own a 3.5 EFI...:eek:

No troubles whatsoever with my 3.9, only the rust goblin... (errr, well, I admit: the ABS don't work).:p

Usually the running rough/cutting out problems relates to the coolant temp sensor. If it cuts out when warm, you should also check the coil, dizzy rotor, cap and ign. amplifier. Then air leaks, and then ECU. A multimeter and the workshop manual are an absolute must with a 3.5 EFI.;)
 
Mines is the 3.9 EFI. Hopefully going for the test run today, changed the Dizzy cap yesterday in the pouring rain and went down last night to start her up. She runs ace from cold so today will be the tester.......................I'll keep you posted.
 
Ok, last time out she only made it 2 miles or so then at the first junction we came to it chucked it. Then took and age to start before i finally limped back home.
Today was a better result.
Took it about 15 miles with a few stops on the way. No where near as rough as it was, cut out twice when i was in drive and foot on the brake waiting to emerge. Started right back up and ok after that.
I wouldn't say it's totally sorted as it's still running the risk of cutting out at a stop but, it defo is much better.
I have a genuine rotor arm coming through the door tomorrow or tuesday hopefully so i will see if that makes the difference. If not then it's ignition amp time.
DC
 
mines running average today an this was just renewing the pipes to the air plenum putting new ignition coil on tomorrow aswell had recent new dizzy an things so we`ll see wat happens
 
hope so think its sorta trying to remap itself after pipes were badly corroded now there new, its trying to find its new idle speed am hopeing ant way sounds stupid but may be right
 
nice one for that really helpful stuff that cheers could poss make a thread from this post goin to that link save others askin all time m8 some good info on it
 
Did you check all of the piping connected to the inlet after AFM? I just remembered having a broken engine breather hose when I bought my current RRC 3.9 EFI '90. It also stalled when warm. It also had a bad connection at the coil negative (the wire which feeds the ECU the engine speed information), which caused the engine completely dying erratically.

Should you have even one hose/pipe destructed, I'd check all of the possible ones, and replace any which looks even slightly suspicious.
 
Yip gotta agree with that too. I have a pipe that i think needs looking at but unsure of it's job.Here's a wee pic of it. It has a T connection in the middle but someone has tried to do a repair, not a good one by the look of it.

DSC01795-2.jpg


The red is the pipes and the cicle is where the repair has been done.

Any thoughts?
 
DC_ said:
I have a pipe that i think needs looking at but unsure of it's job.Here's a wee pic of it. It has a T connection in the middle but some...
Click to expand...

That's the one i had broken in my car. The other problem was that the vacuum advance was knackered (the thin hose on top of plenum goes to vacuum advance unit on the side of the dizzy). I replaced the T-piece on the engine breather hose (with metallic one), and the vacuum advance unit and - hey presto - all the problems were gone. I got the car cheap, because of the running problems. Now it's purrrrfect. :D

You can check the functionality of the vac.adv. unit by removing the thin hose from the top of the plenum and sucking it. If it holds the vacuum (i.e. the hose sticks to your tongue and does not come off :p) the advance unit is ok. You can see the base plate of the dizzy moving when you suck the hose (dizzy cap off). If not the diaphram inside the unit is gone and your engine gets un-metered air through the dizzy and hence - some running problems.

IF you don't have AC, or Cruise control, there's no piping relating to those. Should you have regular brakes, the brake servo and hosing might also give similar trouble.

The air-leaks are a bit difficult sometimes. There's no LPG cars here - so I don't know anything on the hosing related to that (your's was one - if I remember correctly). Since I do not know anything on the LPG cars, I don't give advice on the old fashioned way to check airleaks i.e. using some spray starter fluid on the hosing, around plenum and intake manifold when the engine is running. On regular setup you can hear the engine changing the idle speed to higher level when you hit the leak area with the spray. I do not know whether it's safe with LPG - possibility for backfire.
 
DC_ said:
Yip gotta agree with that too. I have a pipe that i think needs looking at but unsure of it's job.Here's a wee pic of it. It has a T connection in the middle but someone has tried to do a repair, not a good one by the look of it.

DSC01795-2.jpg


The red is the pipes and the cicle is where the repair has been done.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

thats the pipe av just replaced it was the last one to do the t connector had broken an a bit was in the pipe to the plenum no word of a lie it hasnt done nowt suspicious since it was fixed just idling a li8ttle low sometimes but not cutting out hose an connector cost me 17 quid well spent aswell
 
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