Fuel return pipes are ****e even new imo I replaced mine and they still dripped so I used tiny tie wraps on them and had no trouble since
 
Worth looking at or renewing the banjo washers as well, basically anything youve had off check it again.
That's been my thinking but so far tightening and checking everything I can think of hasn't made any difference. I'll do the fuel pump when I get paid next month as it's an easy fix
 
I've replaced the fuel lift pump and I think it's helped a little. I opened the bleed screw on top of the filter after changing the lift pump and with the engine running and I'm getting air bubbles coming from there along with fuel. Where could I be looking for air getting in then? Would it be the main fuel line from tank pick up to lift pump? Or would it be between the lift pump and the filter?
 
I've replaced the fuel lift pump and I think it's helped a little. I opened the bleed screw on top of the filter after changing the lift pump and with the engine running and I'm getting air bubbles coming from there along with fuel. Where could I be looking for air getting in then? Would it be the main fuel line from tank pick up to lift pump? Or would it be between the lift pump and the filter?
most likely between tank sender unit and lift pump
 
its usally the sender unit ,sedimenter or a join
The sender unit/pick up pipe is brand new so it's definitely not that and I don't have a sedimenter fitted (although I do have a new one in the loft somewhere). I'll get some new rubber fuel hose and run it straight from the tank to the lift pump. Hopefully that should sort any problems.
 
Worth looking at or renewing the banjo washers as well, basically anything youve had off check it again.

Don't need new ones - just anneal the ones you have......

That's been my thinking but so far tightening and checking everything I can think of hasn't made any difference. I'll do the fuel pump when I get paid next month as it's an easy fix

Unions won't tighten properly on work hardened copper washers - the washer is too hard to compress into the imperfections of the mating surfaces.... anneal them !!
 
Don't need new ones - just anneal the ones you have.....
Unions won't tighten properly on work hardened copper washers - the washer is too hard to compress into the imperfections of the mating surfaces.... anneal them !!

Its definitely a lot better at starting in the morning than it had been and the idle is better but I'll still have a look at where air is getting in. I may very well need to sort out the washers on the banjo bolts for the leak off pipes as it was leaking there first when I put it back together and I tightened it up. I'll stick some new fuel hose on it for now and see how much that helps as it'll be easy to do.
 
Leak off system should not affect the running, this is just a return after work has been done unless new cars have changed. Can you bypass each item and see what one it is. Check each one you have taken off as they will be the one causing the problem. With old washers, you need it nipped up tighter than with soft new ones.
 

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