now which post are you reffering to with that profound one word statement?


Probably to both cos obviously I know fook all about discoveries & rusty floors :rolleyes: and neither of us know fook all about MOT's.

Do ya fink he can read or would I be wasting my time posting a link to the Online MOT Testers Manual?? :p
 
Probably to both cos obviously I know fook all about discoveries & rusty floors :rolleyes: and neither of us know fook all about MOT's.

Do ya fink he can read or would I be wasting my time posting a link to the Online MOT Testers Manual?? :p
may i say that both you gents have restored my faith in the rusty disci im about to buy to fix up fer the wife (so shell stop driving me deependers)
 
just replaced mine and found that the floor had rotted that much that an original floorpan was too small! ended up buying a sheet of 2mm thick plate and making my own. dont forget that you have to seam weld if you are repairing or spot weld if you are replacing the full panel or it is a mot failure due to the location of all your seatbelts!your better to do it right the first time than having to do it again when it fails the mot
 
Seems like I'm a couple of months late on this thread but what the hell.

I've just replaced the boot floor on my 95 Disco and have a few comments relating to the issues already raised.

If the vehicle floor has failed the MOT and you plan to have it retested at the same garage, the tester will almost certainly check the repair and for it to pass, the new panel must be continuously seam welded around the the entire perimeter of the new panel. Spot welding in the same way that the original panel was will not pass so for MOT retests, I guess pop riveting is out and marine ply definitely not. That said if you are prepareing the vehicle for the initial MOT test, these techniques may be an option but my advice is weld a replacement part in. I got my replacement floor from Country Rovers in Chard for £65. If you can make your own panel up for less, fine but I wouldn't bother unless totally skint as opposed to nearly completely skint like me. Mine took about 2 hours to drill out the original spot welds, cut out the floor and prepare for welding. About another 2 hours for the welding, painting, seam sealer.

The floor supports on mine were not too bad so I didn't need to replace them. It seems replacement supports can be difficult to get hold of. If so, I would have thought it fairly straight forward to make up something similar.


Oh dear oh dear oh dear :rolleyes:

You sir are so full of ****e that if we hung a bucket around your neck we could grow mushrooms in what comes outta your gob! :rolleyes:

The advice given by those "in the know" is of course correct as always but sadly your advice is a load of old cobblers :p
 
just an update and i dropped her off yesterday to get the floor and crossmembers done ( £125 delivered from paddocks , shame about the dubious quality of them :rolleyes: ) and she will be ready to pick up sometime tomoro . not that it makes any difference but he is mig welding it in and then gonna " shultz " it all underneath before he puts the tank back in place ( it that stuff as good as waxoil ? ) . ill post some pics as soon as i get her back :D
 
just picked mine up from pre mot loads of holes in boot floor and my mate the mot tester said it will pass,failed on cracked no plate and bossed indicator lense. lol:)
 
Mine went through the MOT with a big hole along the rear cross member - no problems.

MOT's in Northern Ireland are only done at Goverment run stations so there is no dodgyness.
 

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