KenR251

New Member
Has anybody any ideas of how to cure condensation above the headlining in the front of a Defender 90. I get quite a bit in mine so much so that it runs forward when braking and runs or drips from the front corners and sometimes ffrom the interior light fitting.
I've thought of removing the head lining and applying some insulation to the underside of the roof to create a 'warm' surface, any ideas anyone?
 
Has anybody any ideas of how to cure condensation above the headlining in the front of a Defender 90. I get quite a bit in mine so much so that it runs forward when braking and runs or drips from the front corners and sometimes ffrom the interior light fitting.
I've thought of removing the head lining and applying some insulation to the underside of the roof to create a 'warm' surface, any ideas anyone?

you sure its condesation and not a leaky roof?:rolleyes:
 
I had the same problem, and I used some camping mats glued to the roof behind the headlining. It worked brilliantly. Cost about a Tenner for the mats and a fiver for the glue. Well worth doing.
 
that bloke that sells the kneeling and matting material that goes to most shows, big white side opening van that has a load out front, i covered my roof in the 5mm thick white/cream stuff, nice big roll £15 and some carpet glue, sorted, and makes it quiter inside.
 
Has anybody any ideas of how to cure condensation above the headlining in the front of a Defender 90. I get quite a bit in mine so much so that it runs forward when braking and runs or drips from the front corners and sometimes ffrom the interior light fitting.
I've thought of removing the head lining and applying some insulation to the underside of the roof to create a 'warm' surface, any ideas anyone?

have you got a sunroof?
 
Yep, definite;y driving a 90!! No sunroof and no leaks, definitely condensation.
Thanks for the sugestions re the camping mats etc. I was thinking about glueing some insulation in with spray carpet glue so glad to hear it works.
 
I had the same problem, and I used some camping mats glued to the roof behind the headlining. It worked brilliantly. Cost about a Tenner for the mats and a fiver for the glue. Well worth doing.

May I enquire, how did you re-fix the headlining after gluing the camping mats to the metal work?
 
May I enquire, how did you re-fix the headlining after gluing the camping mats to the metal work?

Longer fir tree clips from e bay.
My 90 doesnt condensate behind the roof lining and im surprised that yours does, my 88 with no lining at all bloody hell i get ****ed on good and proper.


Lynall
 
Longer fir tree clips from e bay.
My 90 doesnt condensate behind the roof lining and im surprised that yours does, my 88 with no lining at all bloody hell i get ****ed on good and proper.


Lynall

Do you have a web link to the exact ones please?
 
I had the same problem, and I used some camping mats glued to the roof behind the headlining. It worked brilliantly. Cost about a Tenner for the mats and a fiver for the glue. Well worth doing.

So the fir tree clips are driven through the camping mats and manage to hold the weight of the headlining without any problem? I'd have thought the clips would have been unable to secure themselves in the camping mats, but perhaps I have the wrong idea of what these camping mats are. Any chance of a link to the mats you used?

Thanks.
 
I had the same problem with condensation and the fact that I was fed up of any heat the heater produced simply went through the roof. I got some foil backed bubble wrap insulation for the backs of radiators in houses (its around 5mm thick) and got some waterproof aerosol glue and covered the roof front to back in the stuff, then fitted the insulation, then refitted the front headlining. As for the back, I coated the foil with spray glue again and got some felt covering that car music shops use to cover parcel shelves to hide subs and speakers. It is great stuff, stretches around everything and leaves a great finish.
 
I had the same problem with condensation and the fact that I was fed up of any heat the heater produced simply went through the roof. I got some foil backed bubble wrap insulation for the backs of radiators in houses (its around 5mm thick) and got some waterproof aerosol glue and covered the roof front to back in the stuff, then fitted the insulation, then refitted the front headlining. As for the back, I coated the foil with spray glue again and got some felt covering that car music shops use to cover parcel shelves to hide subs and speakers. It is great stuff, stretches around everything and leaves a great finish.

Interesting method and it sounds reasonably priced too. Just one question: how did you secure the headlining to the silver lined bubble wrap?
 
A while ago Homebase had a special deal on the fibre glass type loft insulation, £3 a roll - bought one of those and put a nice layer between my headlining and roof, the remainder going in the house.

Seems to be working nicely so far :) The extra weight hasn't caused any problems with the roof lining so long as it is properly supported by being attached in all the right places.
 
A while ago Homebase had a special deal on the fibre glass type loft insulation, £3 a roll - bought one of those and put a nice layer between my headlining and roof, the remainder going in the house.

Seems to be working nicely so far :) The extra weight hasn't caused any problems with the roof lining so long as it is properly supported by being attached in all the right places.

It's knowing how and where to attach the liner that is confusing me. So a plastic plug goes through the liner and fixes where exactly?
 
It's knowing how and where to attach the liner that is confusing me. So a plastic plug goes through the liner and fixes where exactly?

There are four holes in the internal roof gutter, two on each side, above the doors.
These are for the plastic trim clips. You simply push them through the lining, and then into these holes and bash them in.

At the front, the lining is attached by putting the sun visor bolts through the visor, the lining and then into the rivet nuts and the same with the rear view mirror assembly.

Not sure about hard tops but in the pickup version there are also some holes to screw the lining to the rear of the cab.
 

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