Hey pals :)

Ears were burning :p

You'll find lots if brake line info around January this year in my thread, my setup was a sneak over £200 I think, the bias valve is now next to the master cylinder and the beauty part is all 4 corners use an identical axle-caliper connection which is around 14" long

I carry a spare, so if a wheel get snagged etc, I have a spare for any of them.

It's defo a sweet mod. Mark L started it by ditching the copper at his front calipers I thought I could maximise the potential there.

Don't know if you wana hear this, but Ashcroft axles have cost me over £4k. Well I say that, I haven't got the coins for the rear diff yet!

It's not something I want to hear either, but it's one of those weakest link things, I can't risk connecting something HD to something weak as it will break and potentially damage the HD part also.

What I do know is that as long as the propshaft is turning, the tyres will be turning, guaranteed forever, which is a nice feeling :)

Good luck Robb, and yeah Chris if you need any help just post up dude.

Cheers.
 
robbh said:
Tbf though you have done an immense job on that conversion :cool:
A lot of time and money gone into it that's for sure. :)

I think my list maybe longer..... :p tis always something I see browsing on here or the parts sites that I see and think, yea I like that I shall add it too me list. :eek::D

Damn land rovers! :p
Click to expand...

Aye, Cheers :), Far too much time and money really :eek:
I see you mentions diff pegging earlier and that you may buy the ashcroft diy kit.
You ever done one before?
I've just bought a pair of 2.83 crown wheel and pinions.
Like rocking horse poo so if I brake one I'm screwed.
So pegging should help me a lot.
The ashcroft diy kit appeals as it's obviously cheaper than buying it already done and moneys tight to say the least.
I scrimped a scraped to buy the cwp's as I knew if they sold I'd struggle to find another set.
Just not sure whether I fancy attempting the diy pegging myself.
Or even if I have the tools available to do so.
 
You won't be pegging yourself without a good tig welder

I recommend buying cases from nige @ Megasquirt

And frankly, get your diffs built by him too

He charges £60 dead for any build, and then you know your **** is right, as it's too easy to blow a diff if your not like full KY lubed up anal about getting the setup spot on

Cheers
 
Mr Noisy said:
Hey pals :)

Ears were burning :p

You'll find lots if brake line info around January this year in my thread, my setup was a sneak over £200 I think, the bias valve is now next to the master cylinder and the beauty part is all 4 corners use an identical axle-caliper connection which is around 14" long

I carry a spare, so if a wheel get snagged etc, I have a spare for any of them.

It's defo a sweet mod. Mark L started it by ditching the copper at his front calipers I thought I could maximise the potential there.

Don't know if you wana hear this, but Ashcroft axles have cost me over £4k. Well I say that, I haven't got the coins for the rear diff yet!

It's not something I want to hear either, but it's one of those weakest link things, I can't risk connecting something HD to something weak as it will break and potentially damage the HD part also.

What I do know is that as long as the propshaft is turning, the tyres will be turning, guaranteed forever, which is a nice feeling :)

Good luck Robb, and yeah Chris if you need any help just post up dude.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Haha! Yea we were just discussing how amazing your motor is and how many mods you've done we'd like to do really :p

Actually got the brake lines sorted now and turnt out to be just shy of £240 Inc a spare hose that'll fit all 4 corners. :)
Dave is a very helpful chap though and spent a long time going through all my options and decided what was best. I'd recommend him to anyone. Now waiting for them to be made and delivered. :D
So very glad I read your thread and come across that one ;)

Regards ashcroft axles. 4k! :eek: but I think it's necessary :D Admittedly though I am going to attempt the diff pegging myself :eek: but this is mainly because of budget constraints. :(
I could save up I guess but I like having a go at stuff myself.
Will make the lot HD though starting with the rear and go from there.


That's the plan anyway:eek:

And thanks I think I'm going to need the luck :p

aaronmorris said:
Aye, Cheers :), Far too much time and money really :eek:
I see you mentions diff pegging earlier and that you may buy the ashcroft diy kit.
You ever done one before?
I've just bought a pair of 2.83 crown wheel and pinions.
Like rocking horse poo so if I brake one I'm screwed.
So pegging should help me a lot.
The ashcroft diy kit appeals as it's obviously cheaper than buying it already done and moneys tight to say the least.
I scrimped a scraped to buy the cwp's as I knew if they sold I'd struggle to find another set.
Just not sure whether I fancy attempting the diy pegging myself.
Or even if I have the tools available to do so.
Click to expand...

Yea mate I've mentioned it :) and it's definitely going to happen....... Along with full HD internals. It's just a question of when. :( gotta save some cash first.

As for the pegging. No I've never done it. Yes I am going to attempt to do it. I've got about 4 spare standard diffs so why not :p

Plus I have all the equipment to have a go I need between my garage and where I work so surely can have a good crack at it. :D If it goes tits up then I'll get the pros to do it :eek:


2.83's. Not seen them before. Must be rare! And yea diff pegging will help. Especially with that cummins engine! :eek: can't remember the figures off the top of my head but I know it chucks out shed loads of torque! :)

Will stop the Crown wheel riding up the pinion under shock loading at least. :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
You won't be pegging yourself without a good tig welder

I recommend buying cases from nige @ Megasquirt

And frankly, get your diffs built by him too

He charges £60 dead for any build, and then you know your **** is right, as it's too easy to blow a diff if your not like full KY lubed up anal about getting the setup spot on

Cheers
Click to expand...

That's where the cwp's are coming from :D
He mentioned pegging, I know it makes sense to do them but a bit skint at the mo.
Still tempted to just buy cases off him to be honest, Saves a lot of messing around doing it myself.
Just not sure whether now or later when I have more pennies :eek:
 
Mr Noisy said:
You won't be pegging yourself without a good tig welder

I recommend buying cases from nige @ Megasquirt

And frankly, get your diffs built by him too

He charges £60 dead for any build, and then you know your **** is right, as it's too easy to blow a diff if your not like full KY lubed up anal about getting the setup spot on

Cheers
Click to expand...

Hmm..... Did wonder about nige @ Megasquirt. I did see on his website he does them. :scratching_chin:

Well..... If my attempt at the pegging goes tits up I'll give him a call. :) That's a fairly good price to build it too.

And that last line of yours! :hysterically_laughi But agreed it does have to be spot on. Not point in spending all the dollar just to have it all **** itself half way down the road.
 
robbh said:
Yea mate I've mentioned it :) and it's definitely going to happen....... Along with full HD internals. It's just a question of when. :( gotta save some cash first.

As for the pegging. No I've never done it. Yes I am going to attempt to do it. I've got about 4 spare standard diffs so why not :p

Plus I have all the equipment to have a go I need between my garage and where I work so surely can have a good crack at it. :D If it goes tits up then I'll get the pros to do it :eek:


2.83's. Not seen them before. Must be rare! And yea diff pegging will help. Especially with that cummins engine! :eek: can't remember the figures off the top of my head but I know it chucks out shed loads of torque! :)

Will stop the Crown wheel riding up the pinion under shock loading at least. :)
Click to expand...

Hmm, Think I'll leave trying the diff pegging myself, I can get it tig welded but then I don't think I know anyone with a pillar drill, So I'd have to pay for that.
Easier to just buy some cases outright.
As much as I do like doing stuff myself.
But I'm interested to see how you get on with it dude :)
Worth a go if you have spare casings and the tools to do it.

But exactly my thoughts on pegging, Yes the cummins has many many torques :D
2.83's are made by KAM.
They list them on their site. But according to Nige @ megasquirt they neither stock them nor have any plans to make any more.
Hence why if I bust one I'm screwed :( as I'll not be able to get a replacement.
Don't think I've ever even seen any second hand ones either :eek:
Full hd internals would be nice, But mega money :eek:
 
Last edited:
Why do you want 2.83?

You're not going to be able to be slow enough?

Or are you running a custom transfer case?
 
Mr Noisy said:
Why do you want 2.83?

You're not going to be able to be slow enough?

Or are you running a custom transfer case?
Click to expand...

You're not going to be able to be slow enough?
This is my problem.
I've fitted cummins 6bt in my 90.
So low revving diesel as you probably know.
The original plan was to fit a 1.003 transfer box.
But trying to find one proved difficult at the time.
So I rushed into having my adapter made up using the 1.2 transfer box input gear.
Input gears on the 1.003 transfer box has a different tooth count. So it's no longer a simple mater of bolting a 1.003 transfer box on.
Pic attached to show problem.

DSCF2860_zps1e275dc5.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Changing the transfer box from 1.222 > 1.003 = 21.80% Raise
And every one I've spoke to who has done the conversion says 1.003 transfer box is the way to go.
Now using different ratio diffs will supposedly give me a 25.8% raise in gearing.
Or am I wrong and talking out of my arse :confused: :eek:
Hopefully I haven't f*cked up :(
 
Voila! :D









Also got the centre part of the chassis up to the radius arm mounts rust treated and painted. Tomorrow morning before I go paintballing I'll get the front part of the chassis primed at least. Just spent an hour or so wire brushing what's left.




Now time for a well earned shower and beer. :D

Will update again tomorrow :)
 
aaronmorris said:
You're not going to be able to be slow enough?
This is my problem.
I've fitted cummins 6bt in my 90.
So low revving diesel as you probably know.
The original plan was to fit a 1.003 transfer box.
But trying to find one proved difficult at the time.
So I rushed into having my adapter made up using the 1.2 transfer box input gear.
Input gears on the 1.003 transfer box has a different tooth count. So it's no longer a simple mater of bolting a 1.003 transfer box on.
Pic attached to show problem.

DSCF2860_zps1e275dc5.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Changing the transfer box from 1.222 > 1.003 = 21.80% Raise
And every one I've spoke to who has done the conversion says 1.003 transfer box is the way to go.
Now using different ratio diffs will supposedly give me a 25.8% raise in gearing.
Or am I wrong and talking out of my arse :confused: :eek:
Hopefully I haven't f*cked up :(
Click to expand...


I appreciate that you've got bags of torque so you couldn't care less what gears you run, but my point is that with 2.83 CWP you're not gonna have much of a crawler gear.

What's the rev range on a 6BT?

I'm a little rusty on my gearing stuff but basically you want to be in a situation where the gearing is suitable for your output, but also with an offroad vehicle we need to consider how slow we can go not just how fast we can go

And although a 1.003 case will allow you to exploit the best of the motors output, giving you no problems setting off in high first but going off the clock in 5th, you still keep stock low range, even though when we go to bigger tyres stock low range on 3.54 diffs is often too tall for how slow we'd like to go

So basically what worries me is that your 2.8 diffs and probably 33" plus tyres are gonna give you a pretty quick low first, that might be undesirable

Cheers Sam
 
Mr Noisy said:
I appreciate that you've got bags of torque so you couldn't care less what gears you run, but my point is that with 2.83 CWP you're not gonna have much of a crawler gear.

What's the rev range on a 6BT?

I'm a little rusty on my gearing stuff but basically you want to be in a situation where the gearing is suitable for your output, but also with an offroad vehicle we need to consider how slow we can go not just how fast we can go

And although a 1.003 case will allow you to exploit the best of the motors output, giving you no problems setting off in high first but going off the clock in 5th, you still keep stock low range, even though when we go to bigger tyres stock low range on 3.54 diffs is often too tall for how slow we'd like to go

So basically what worries me is that your 2.8 diffs and probably 33" plus tyres are gonna give you a pretty quick low first, that might be undesirable

Cheers Sam
Click to expand...

Ah, I understand where you're coming from now :)
Rev range on the 6bt is 2800rpm at most.
You know Ash witty's 110 and he's running 1.003 transfer box.
As is anyone else I know who's done the cummins conversion.
Now having the 2.83's put me in roughly the same position as a 1.003 transfer box would.
But as you say low box is altered now.
Something I would have liked to avoid but with the transfer box issues it's the easiest way now. (not necessarily the best)
Here's a couple of gear charts showing the difference between standard and 2.83's.
Have a look and see/let me know what you think :)

3.54's
345-283_zpsb88c31c2.png
[/URL][/IMG]

2.83's
375diffs-283_zps1f447d6a.png
[/URL][/IMG]
 
I'm hearing you on the 2.83 mate regards the overall gearing, just that low range.

Underdrive would be your ideal solution.
 
Mr Noisy said:
I'm hearing you on the 2.83 mate regards the overall gearing, just that low range.

Underdrive would be your ideal solution.
Click to expand...

I agree about altering the low range dude.
To be honest I'm not really up on the gearing stuff. But over standard is it really going to be that bad :(
But something had to give. It's going to be a daily drive so decent road manors are wanted if I can.
To be fair the whole project is trial and error so if I don't like it I'll have to have a rethink.
I guess with going away from lr stuff it's always going to be a compromise and never going to be perfect.
 
Last edited:
More done today :)


Chassis has now completely rust treated, primed, and had 2 topcoats. Should see it last a little while longer.







Then started getting the front end back together :D
Lift kit arrives tomorrow also. So will finish axle tomorrow/tuesday depending on work.


 
Bit of suspension porn. :D



Ending up opting for the medium duty set as I do plan on fitting a winch and carrying quite a bit of kit in the back. So to start will lift it more than 2".
Unfortunately I have to go to work so can't fit them now. So I'll crack on with it tomorrow morning. :)
 
Last edited:
Mr Noisy said:
You won't be pegging yourself without a good tig welder

I recommend buying cases from nige @ Megasquirt

And frankly, get your diffs built by him too

He charges £60 dead for any build, and then you know your **** is right, as it's too easy to blow a diff if your not like full KY lubed up anal about getting the setup spot on

Cheers
Click to expand...

This is something I've been thinking of doing with the bits I got with you before I fit them.
 
He's got some good upgrades for the old ARBs now at great prices, worth having a chat ...
 
Slowly getting there. :)

Just waiting for a couple of gaskets to turn up and I can finish it off and get the wheels back on :D

Kinda decided the way the springs are sat on the spring seats I think I may invest in some 3* castor correction arms. :eek:

 
Last edited:
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