James,

I followed your suggestion and progressively used smaller bits to set the pump. The furthest clockwise position possible is actually lining up with the pump pin. This is as far clockwise as it goes. I can go counterclockwise but of course that makes it worse. Does that mean I may have not installed the timing belt correctly by on tooth and that's why it is off to one side?
I am posting links to pictures of timing belt position in hope they're enough to determine if I should redo the belt.


Thanks

https://picasaweb.google.com/105398738097216188197/June202012

https://picasaweb.google.com/105398738097216188197/June212012
 
yes ,you will need to slacken belt after first realigning and loosen 3 pump pulley bolts wedge belt on the other pulleys with wooden peg halves or similar and move pump pulley round a tooth
 
Thanks James. I should ask this question just to confirm before messing things again.
I will turn the wheel on tooth to the right (clockwise) ......correct?
And from there and after the belt is all set I should do the steps you described earlier with the drill bits to get the pump set correctly.
 
you will need to turn pulley clockwise so you dont run out of slot on 3 bolts when adjusting pump just before knock is optimum
 
I seemed to have damaged the top radiator hose while working on the vehicle. The hose portion that's going to the pipe on top of the manifold touched the water pump wheel and it grooved it quite a bit. I would like to cut it and plug both the hose and the pipe. Would that work? The heater core has been bypassed by previous owner by connecting the hose from the other end of that same pipe to the inlet pipe in the block. So am I correct the assume that plugging the hose and the pipe is OK.

Coming back to the timing issue, I am at a loss an will seek a friend's assistance as I adjusted a few times and it still smokes. If I turn it far enough clock wise to not smoke or smoke very little, it looses all power, knocks quite a bit and stalls. I will reset it again tomorrow. The cast iron piece on the injection pump has that the pin goes in has been broken by the mechanic and I noticed that I sometimes put the drill bits on one side or the other of it and thought it was in the broken hole until I took the wheel right off and made mark on the outside casing of the cam belt housing lining up with the whole to act as a general guide while trying to fit the bit in.

Thanks
 
Well it is not that simple. It takes a minimum of 5 days to get a new hose shipped to Egypt. I take it plugging the hose is a bad idea. I will just splice it with a piece of stainless pipe for the time being.
I will take another try at tje timing tomorrow. Thanks a lot.
 
OK after a lot of trial and error I believe I got it timed correctly and the smoke now is whitish and sells like burnt oil. I took it to a diesel shop to look at the injectors and he didn't want to bother with the injectors and told me it is a rings/pistons problem.

So I decided to have the engine rebuild. Here is a list of what I plan to order and please let me know if I missed anything:

-Head Bolt Set - 18 bolts - 300TDI
-Head gasket set - does not include head gasket - 300TDI - Elring OE
-Head Gasket Tdi - 1.6Mm No Hol
-Piston assy with rings - 020 o/s - 300TDI (is there a preferred manufacturer?)
-Timing belt, tensioner and idler.
-Serpentine Belt (fan, PAS, alternator)
-Air-con Belt - Genuine - 300TDI

Should I bother buying standard rings only in case the pistons and bores are OK or will I be better off doing the whole job since I got everything apart anyway?
 
you need to remove head to be sure of bore condition and mearure with a bore comparitor ,personally if looking iffy i rebore +20 to new piston size and honed to clearance size
 
Sorry to keep coming back to this. I looked under the car as it was running and oil was squirting out the bottom. Upon closer inspection I found it is coming out of the spring portion of the exhaust right under the engine (not sure what is technically called). Obviously it is not drivable now with it losing that much oil. And now to my questions, does that mean a head gasket failure? Does that also explain the white smoke? If not, what more parts than I listed earlier and again below do I need?
I still plan at looking at the bores and strong possibility of re-boring with new pistons and rings just making sure I order everything I need as it takes a couple of weeks for the parts to get here and costly shipping, customs and taxes.

-Head Bolt Set - 18 bolts - 300TDI
-Head gasket set - does not include head gasket - 300TDI - Elring OE
-Head Gasket Tdi - 1.6Mm No Hol
-Piston assy with rings - 020 o/s - 300TDI (is there a preferred manufacturer?)
-Timing belt, tensioner and idler.
-Serpentine Belt (fan, PAS, alternator)
-Air-con Belt - Genuine - 300TDI
 
Dont forget the big end bearings... I personally opted to take the engine out and do the whole lot in one go. But that was only for my own piece of mind as i did not want to do it again..

Simon.
 
the big end bearings are the ones at the bottom of the con rod round the crankshaft they come in a complete set, when you remove the pistons you will see the bearing shells(you cant miss em) you need to check to make sure they are not oversized i e standard + 20 or others.

ron.
 
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