Am I right in thinking welding galvanised is not advised due to the fumes?
Maybe for much larger welding jobs where its a lot more than 2 little spot welds. The glav is grinded back from the welded area as it wont weld properly otherwise.
 
I think you might be able to do that but i dont see why would you
Was thinking of a quick fix just to drive it somewhere to get brackets welded..
But I ended up borrowing a big old stick welder and doing it myself... all I can say is first thing in the morning im going to get thick grinding discs... I've never done any welding before and I will not post photos for the sake of my self respect.
 
Fine... :confused:
 

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For calibration with hawkeye park it on plain ground, use two jacks and lift the body to even height then when hawkeye asks if calibration blocks are fitted prompt yes and finish the sequence as it requires. Job done
 
For calibration with hawkeye park it on plain ground, use two jacks and lift the body to even height then when hawkeye asks if calibration blocks are fitted prompt yes and finish the sequence as it requires. Job done
Does it have to be on level ground? and when you jack it I take it you do it so its level with the front (same space between wheel and arch)
 
Yes, how you save the heights that way will self level
Haven't quite got round to fitting them in yet, because I must have accidentally threw out the air bag retainer clips that hold the bags on the upper mounts, Now just wondering which ones to buy from bearmach. Because the D2 ones "NTC9449" are way more expensive than the RR Classic ones "ANR1220R" and they look rather similar to me, will those ones work on there do you know?
Cheers
 
I didnt bother with this when i fitted mines cos i have a box of various cirlips in the garage and found two pus-on circlips which fitted well, like this:
push_on_fix.jpg


but you can use e-clips too, anything which fits cos the bags once inflated will not come out from there anyway
 
little update, spent half hour in a mates workshop and made these up out of some galv steel, might not be perfect but I ain't no engineer ;)
The main point is, the holes line up, the sensors slide and bolt in... now just need to find someone to weld them on o_O

Hi there. I know it's been a couple of years but did you save the dimensions? I'm going to try it but with a plate running up the back so I can just pop-rivet it in place, reason being I have to fit the ride height sensor temporarily so I can drive to a garage and have a plate welded over the hole in the chassis behind the ride eight sensor, which I wouldn't have known about if the original bracket hadn't completely disintegrated LOL.
 
Hi there. I know it's been a couple of years but did you save the dimensions? I'm going to try it but with a plate running up the back so I can just pop-rivet it in place, reason being I have to fit the ride height sensor temporarily so I can drive to a garage and have a plate welded over the hole in the chassis behind the ride eight sensor, which I wouldn't have known about if the original bracket hadn't completely disintegrated LOL.
Your right it's been a couple of years and I struggle to remember a couple days :confused:
Didn't save them unfortunately, the sensor bracket is pretty easy to make up if you buy the sensor first and make it around it, I just folded the plate and cut/drilled the slot and holds. As for on the chassis, your best bet is really to find another one to measure up yourself, they haven't got to be absolutely spot on since calibration takes up the slack. There's a few pics on Google images that can help you guage where to put them if you just search for ride height sensor. Sorry to not be much help!
 

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