DoZZa said:
Thanks for the guidance.

I will probably upgrade to poly bushes while I am there, aint got the tools to put in the OEM ones.
Click to expand...

If the airbags are original, they are probably leaking. Save yourself a lot of grief and replace them before you end up needing to ovehaul the compressor and valve block due to over work compensating for the leaks.

If you want a guide to airbag replacement PM me.:D

Poly bushes will do nothing for the ride and unless it's been off roaded the originals are probably OK.
 
I have replaced the swivel ball joints twice first when I got the car and then after another 70k both times the transformation was incredible have a look at them its not a nice job but makes a whole heap of difference to the directional stabiity as has been said before the problem is the bushes shocks wheel size and tyres all influence the ride so it can vary enormously - I use 19 in rims in summer and 18 in winter and the 18 give a less jarry ride but I like the stiffer ride on the 19 when driving faster it all depends what you want out of the vehicle
 
Thanks for the input chaps.

Regarding the swivel ball joints, are they easy to do or will I need special tools?
 
New to Land of Landies ....I've recently bought a 2000 model Range Rover 4.0 v8 HSE Auto.... with less than 70k miles on it. It's sitting on 20" Stormer Alloys booted with 275/40 Scorpions. Drove it today for first time ( as bought as a non-runner couple weeks back...and have had engine re-built ). Immediately noticed that driving on un-even /cambered roads, the rangey darts/tramlining all over the place - an accident waiting to happen !... Was reading through earlier posts on this thread...will have alook steering links etc and report back. As Dozza asked: Is it a difficult job replacing the swivel joints ?
 
Before you go for the difficult bits, look at the drag link ball joints, and track rod ends, also the steering damper. You could also get rid of the bling wheels and put some sensible wheels and tyres on it, they are very sensitive to wheel/tyre sizes, very little compliance in 40 profile.
 
Thread resurrection!

I sold the RR that first prompted this post at the beginning of the year.

However I got sad without one and bought another one today!

A newer late 2000 model Vogue.

This car has similar issues to the other one.

The car is better than the previous one but still tramlines on certain roads.

It has new airbags all round. It is running on 18" Hurricane wheels with Cooper tyres all round.

According to the documents I have with the car, it has had the drag link replied last year.

So I think I should look at changing the steering damper, the shocks and maybe the tie rod ends.

What other easy components should I change while I am there?

Are there bits on the rear that should also be changed for help that wondering front end.

Nice to be back in a RR again, this one seems better on fuel too, well as good as one can be anyway!
 
Had same issue, fitted Polybush Comforts to radius arms, new steering damper and changed tyres to General Grabber AT2. Huge improvement. Shocks this weekend if it keeps dry.
 
Interesting, did not think of the radius arms.

Damper seems straight forward to replace, radius arm bushes look like a different animal!
 
DoZZa said:
It seems not DoZZa, you are the only one who has this problem with the two P38's you have had in the last 12 months!!!!

I have a solution.... Sell the bloody thing!!!!
Click to expand...

... But then you'd have the same issue with the next one! We all have this to deal with to some extent, everything plays a small part, tyres, balance of tyres, wheel size, brakes, shocks, bushes, blah blah.... Good innit? :D
 
DoZZa said:
Does anyones P38 NOT tramline/wander?
Click to expand...
Mine did, but doesn't now. My problem was the tyres - old and starting to break down a bit. I replaced them all with Dunlop Grand Trek TG35 (225/65R16). I had them balanced and aligned by a really good tyre fitter who was very particular and wouldn't let me have the car back until it was perfect. ...and it was, no problems since then. The car is on coils and has sound shockers. It rides perfectly even at motorway speeds without the air suspension lowering feature although I've never been above 95mph.
 
DoZZa said:
Does anyones P38 NOT tramline/wander?
Click to expand...

Mine does, so does Sean's in the workshop, although his got much better after he went back to 18" from 20". Needless to say we are both fitting 16's again.

Don't go the polybush route BTW. Been there and done that with both the Dynamic and Soft ones. When I have some time, I'll be putting the Genuine Part ones back in. The p38 likes to have some lateral movement in the suspension and a harder bush makes any tramlining feel worse than it should do. Also, LR had a few issues getting the correct compound/design into them and they had several attempts to get this right inbetween 1994 and 2002.

Usually, the wonder is related to the drag and track rods having play in the ends. Replace these and make sure the steering box is adjusted properly. Then look for play in the upper part of the steering, from the steering wheel down to the steering box. Then just check the condition of the panhard rod bushes - these can sometimes be affected by a leaking steering box drop arm seal as the ATF gets in under it. Normally, the remaining wonder is due to tyres and the crap road surfaces we pay all that tax for.
 
Thanks everyone for your valued input so far.

WSLR, I have a few further question for you, if you could expand a little on some of what you have written, that would be great!

Regarding the bushes, I have read in a few different places that replacing the bushes for Poly bushes has improved things. But I can understand why they would possibly make the ride harsher and any tram lining more apparent as you say in your post.. I was going to change all the front and rear to Poly bushes but not so sure after reading your comments. In what way did they cause a negative effect on the ride/handling?

Also, as regard to the compound that Land Rover have tried to get right. Is there a specific part number for bushes with different compound, or is it pot luck on which ones you get from say a dealer?

Steering box adjustment is something I am not sure about, I have not found any clear information on how to do this. The RAVE documents cover it but for me at least it is not easy to follow.

I have just purchased a brand new set of genuine 16" wheels from ebay at a crazy low price, so I will be putting a new set of tyres on, probably General Grabber AT's.

Thanks again for your help, it is much appreciated. :)

WSLR said:
Mine does, so does Sean's in the workshop, although his got much better after he went back to 18" from 20". Needless to say we are both fitting 16's again.

Don't go the polybush route BTW. Been there and done that with both the Dynamic and Soft ones. When I have some time, I'll be putting the Genuine Part ones back in. The p38 likes to have some lateral movement in the suspension and a harder bush makes any tramlining feel worse than it should do. Also, LR had a few issues getting the correct compound/design into them and they had several attempts to get this right inbetween 1994 and 2002.

Usually, the wonder is related to the drag and track rods having play in the ends. Replace these and make sure the steering box is adjusted properly. Then look for play in the upper part of the steering, from the steering wheel down to the steering box. Then just check the condition of the panhard rod bushes - these can sometimes be affected by a leaking steering box drop arm seal as the ATF gets in under it. Normally, the remaining wonder is due to tyres and the crap road surfaces we pay all that tax for.
Click to expand...
 
steering boxes should be adjusted when in center of travel count turns one way then other and make sure box is central slacken nut and with hand on input linkage adjust clockwise till all free play is taken up, add a little preload and try to tight and self centering will go and notchy feel appear,theres nothng wrong with poly bushes ive fitted alot of red and yellow,generally removing all wear gives better ride i like full bush kit
 
Thanks for the info. But can I clarify a few points before I take a spanner to the car!

jamesmartin said:
slacken nut
Click to expand...

Which nut is this, the one on top of the box with the hex screw in the centre of it?

jamesmartin said:
adjust clockwise
Click to expand...

I take it you mean to adjust the hex screw clockwise?

jamesmartin said:
add a little preload and try to tight and self centering will go and notchy feel appear
Click to expand...

Can you expand a little on this please, when you say pre-load do you mean move the steering wheel.

Sorry if I sound dumb, but I have very limited knowledge of steering boxes, far more used to steering racks!

Thanks
 
To adjust the steering box: Jack front end of car up so both front wheels are off the ground. Center the steering wheel in the straight ahead position. Loosen the nut with the hex screw in the middle on the top of the steering box. Gently tighten the center hex screw until it just starts to feel tight. Loosen about 1/16 of a turn. Spin steering wheel from lock to lock, there should not be any tightness towards the ends, if there is then slacken the adjuster screw another 1/16 turn. Tighten locknut while holding hex screw still. Recheck steering wheel from lock to lock. Done.
 
i allways do it with wheels on ground nut on top is lock nut loosen and adjust allen screw feel free play through rocking input steering linkage till all free play gone add a little 1/4 turn lock nut up and try,you have to do it while central as box as high centre point with back lash increasing towards end of each lock if done in other point it would then have to try and go through high point while been adjusted for lower ,
 
The above covers the steering box adjustment.

Each to their own with bushes. I've had enough of the Polybush ones. I've found that they can wear from the bolt, rather than the outside. I removed one of my panhard rod bushes about a year ago which had been on the vehicle less than 2 years, and the securing both which runs through it have worn away - not much, but enough to cause play it in.

Saying that, the Range Rover Classics on springs run pretty well on polybushes.

I've had mine up on the ramp yesterday and found the front axle is moving around at the 4 bushes on the front radius arms. This looks like the polybushes have worn the bolts, but I need to take them apart and see.

We've recently had dealings with SuperPro near Bridgwater, and I know their bushes are supposed to be better than the PolyBush brand (so I hear so don't shout at me), so although I have a box full of new Genuine Part rubber bushes ready to go on, I may try these out first.

There were some supercessions on Genuine Part bush part numbers early on, so I suspect that the design/materials were changed through evolution. I know the newer stuff has gone through the same as well, as the chassis design engineers are always making adjustments on the Jag LR products.
 
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